Author Topic: Over Heating Problems (Read 10605 times)

nifty · « **on:** January 10, 2007, 10:55:28 PM »

This is part of another thread that has been split and moved to this section

....i got picked up in a red 73 last nigt and cruised to gus's.he still having overheating problems.we followed him for about 4kms and water started pouring from right hand side.
took it home quick smart( wth lots of pointing and staring from motorists at seeing 2 red corvettes in a line)

thinking it has a blown head gasket as water dripping from under right head.started it and put thermometer in radiator.only went to about 180..gauge was off the scale..its a new gauge,and the radiator has just had a recore.then we seen water coming from a grub screw under head.
gus and steve(69vette) pulled it down today,replaced grubscrew,took water pump off and pulled the head(all in 43 degree heat in a hot shed) got it going at 7 tnight....same problem.its going onto a trailer tomorrow for trip to adelaide and a conversion to rhd.
he really wanted to drive it,as he's had it for 6 1/2 yrs and never had a proper drive.and he STILL cant work out whats going on.

nifty · « **Reply #1 on:** January 11, 2007, 12:55:54 PM »

gus and steve turned up last night about half 11 in steves 69 big block....gus frustrated to hell.bench raced for about an hr or so...then off they went.
get a message about an hr later.....gus has the inlet manifold off,then he spots it......the fan is on backwards.......he had a few beers and went to bed.called in this morning,and all hell breaking loose.refitting and what not.....if it runs cool hes driving to adelaide today.aircon not working and 35degrees..good luck gus.and still hasnt looked at headlights.

nifty · « **Reply #2 on:** January 11, 2007, 10:35:05 PM »

nope .its not fixed.....changing fan made it run cooler for about 5 mins...then boiled.the grub screw im taking about is more of a cap head bolt going into motor under right hand side header.he tried to undo it and it snapped off in his hand.now he relly upset.got the drill out and tried to drill it...what he thought was the remains of the screw was actually a muddy crud.he got that sorted.then the fan.he just happened to look to his right and see the word "front"..oops.swaped it easy enough.still boiling.when i was around the other night i squeezed the top radiator hose and it was only about 1/4 full..the engine was hot.now every car ive owned when running the hose is tight and full of coolant when thermostat is open..
the radiator has been recored,new waterpump,new hoses,new thermostat.and its had a rebuild on the engine.....im thinking the head gasket is on upside down blocking the cooling jacket holes..but gus assures me its correct.he now scratching his head.

oh he got the lights working.he did knock off the earth wire.
i told him to grab steves big block 69,and do a donut in it..that should ease the frustation...its now going to adelaide on a trailer tomorrow.gus will make a few trips down there when motor is out and try and sort it...tis funny..motor was rebuilt about 2 yrs ago.and hes had it running at idle for hours over the last 2 yrs.when he starts it,it idles for a good half hr to charge battery and has never overheated.but now it does and motor has vertually no hrs on it, and never been driven.until now on a trader plate and its a kettle.

Cameron 77C3 · « **Reply #3 on:** January 11, 2007, 11:40:32 PM »

With the hose not tight. Is the motor full of water?

Has the thermostat been checked to make sure it's opening? Place thermostat, and a if you can get a suitable thermometer, into a suitable container. Fill with water. If you slowly add hot water so as to slowly increase the water temperature the Thermostat should open. You can note at what temperature the thermostat is opening with the thermometer.

Has water flow been established?. With the radiator part full look down into the tank with a torch and make sure that water is circulating enough. There should be a good healthy flow through the tubes into the tank.

Cam

nifty · « **Reply #4 on:** January 11, 2007, 11:41:02 PM »

oh oh.....last 2 start ups of gus's 80 have resulted in a rattly engine...sounds like old welsh plugs rattling around.pulling water pump off to have a look see.

Cameron 77C3 · « **Reply #5 on:** January 11, 2007, 11:43:47 PM »

Old welsh plugs rattleing????? Now thats a new one.

Where they not changed out when the motor was rebuilt?

Has the oil been checked for indications of water?. That is to say oil is a little milky white in colour.

nifty · « **Reply #6 on:** January 11, 2007, 11:52:30 PM »

steve the owner of the 69 is a mechanic....it has no milky oil.if it has old welsh plugs gus's is going to have serious words with the bloke who rebuilt it......i used to have an old fishing car to tow the boat...same deal.last owner just punched rear welsh plug into motor rather than remove em....hahaha blew up in a big way.about 6mths later.but it was only a shack car to tow boat to ramp and back.

Cameron 77C3 · « **Reply #7 on:** January 12, 2007, 12:00:01 AM »

Thats why I've never heard of that. If anyone one did that in the group I hang out with he/she would be shot.

So you can actually hear a rattleing from INSIDE the block? Bugger me. That's a first for me.

I would have thought journals, bearings etc.

You sure it's not water hammer. I have had that happen before when water is moving through the motor but not enough. You get spot boiling within the motor and what actually sounds like really bad knocking. Poor water flow will do this.

Keep us posted.

nifty · « **Reply #8 on:** January 12, 2007, 12:18:19 AM »

hes called it a night and hit the sack.

Cameron 77C3 · « **Reply #9 on:** January 12, 2007, 12:21:19 AM »

Quote

Originally posted by nifty
hes called it a night and hit the sack.

Yep sounds like a good idea to me.

Catch ya tomorrow. ;42

Chromie · « **Reply #10 on:** January 12, 2007, 11:42:19 AM »

Hi nifty;42

If it is running original cylinder heads and you have cooked it, there is a chance that the cylinder head has cracked.
If you have water comming out of the exhaust pipe, then it is a head gasket or a cracked head.
If it idles and does not overheat, but when you drive it and it does overheat, have you got the lower spoiler fitted to it.
And finally "thermofans" do not work and certainly will never work as well as original clutch fan and fan shorud. What temperature thermostat did you fit?
Hope your friend has a better time once it is converted:25

nifty · « **Reply #11 on:** January 12, 2007, 04:26:12 PM »

thanks all...hes in adelaide now...trailered it.
he doesnt have the lower front spoiler on...its in for painting and not ready yet..seems the best painter in town is on holidays until next week..
gus will get it sorted,i personnaly think its something small thats being overlooked.he doesnt have water from exhaust,oil is clean,and has a 190 thermostat in it.the answer could well be the spoiler....as when he took it for a fang the other night he said the nose was lifting.. possible that nose lifting from air going under as opposed to through air dam????

77CVT · « **Reply #12 on:** January 12, 2007, 04:30:24 PM »

;51 no spoiler on a C3 = high temps!

If the nose lifts then you have adequate power! ;46

nifty · « **Reply #13 on:** January 12, 2007, 04:39:54 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by 77CVT
;51 no spoiler on a C3 = high temps!

If the nose lifts then you have adequate power! ;46

I HEAR THAT.
as the caveman used to say....UG

Chromie · « **Reply #14 on:** January 12, 2007, 04:52:40 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by nifty
thanks all...hes in adelaide now...trailered it.
he doesnt have the lower front spoiler on...its in for painting and not ready yet..seems the best painter in town is on holidays until next week..
gus will get it sorted,i personnaly think its something small thats being overlooked.he doesnt have water from exhaust,oil is clean,and has a 190 thermostat in it.the answer could well be the spoiler....as when he took it for a fang the other night he said the nose was lifting.. possible that nose lifting from air going under as opposed to through air dam????

A 190 degree F thermostat is too hot put a 160 degree F (about 72 degree C);38
Without that front spoiler once you get past 50kms per hour it will overheat as there is nothing to scoop the air up with and force it through the radiator.;50

nifty · « **Reply #15 on:** January 12, 2007, 05:01:13 PM »

this is great stuff.i will let you know how he goes.hes not going to do a lot until he gets it back in about 3mths or so....unless he takes a special trip down to have a look....its about 400kms away

Cameron 77C3 · « **Reply #16 on:** January 13, 2007, 12:29:24 AM »

Hey Nifty, a quick off topic question:-

Who is doing the conversion in Adelaide?

When I looked at my papers I found that PRISCILLA was originally converted in Adelaide.

nifty · « **Reply #17 on:** January 16, 2007, 10:52:58 PM »

gus got the overheating problem sorted today..the converter removed radiator hoses off today before pulling the engine....the top hose has a filter inside the top hose,that was clogged up with gunk,effectivly blocking the hose and getting no flow.

Chromie · « **Reply #18 on:** January 17, 2007, 12:45:53 AM »

Quote

Originally posted by nifty
gus got the overheating problem sorted today..the converter removed radiator hoses off today before pulling the engine....the top hose has a filter inside the top hose,that was clogged up with gunk,effectivly blocking the hose and getting no flow.

Hmmmmmmmmm thats another item I will put on my list of things never to do as everyone forgets to maintain them.;30
Any way if your cooling system is clean why would you need one?;38
Glad to hear they found something:24

smokem · « **Reply #19 on:** January 17, 2007, 05:21:24 PM »

"water hammer " ---- need a plumber? ;41