Author Topic: Right to Left Conversion #2 (Read 64785 times)

Scott · « **Reply #20 on:** August 16, 2016, 07:43:22 AM »

Blueprint pretty much use their own internals as far as I'm aware. They also make their own alloy heads. The Roadkill guys use blueprint engines in their engine masters show (sponsored) to test parts. Yes they are cheaper.

70vette · « **Reply #21 on:** August 23, 2016, 01:16:24 AM »

Remember lobbying the Member for the Interior?

70vette · « **Reply #22 on:** October 17, 2016, 11:04:18 PM »

Decided to get off my backside and do some work on the car the other day.

Came up ok I think

70vette · « **Reply #23 on:** October 19, 2016, 11:02:06 PM »

Got these done tonight

Vettech · « **Reply #24 on:** October 20, 2016, 12:10:51 PM »

Sorry for asking, but I dont see the inards of an engine that often, but some pics ago I can see the block and 4 cylinders, nice and clean bright and shinny top to bottom, but now this last pic they look like they have a step or grooving or something 2/3rds down and at the bottom. So! What am I looking at ? Why?.

bfit · « **Reply #25 on:** October 20, 2016, 12:29:42 PM »

mate think of what would the rings look like if there were no piston in the bore.
( usually done to check ring gap )
I must admit, I have not bothered with ring cap for a street engine for some 40 odd years.
Bfit

70vette · « **Reply #26 on:** October 20, 2016, 01:27:28 PM »

Quote from: Vettech on October 20, 2016, 12:10:51 PM

Sorry for asking, but I dont see the inards of an engine that often, but some pics ago I can see the block and 4 cylinders, nice and clean bright and shinny top to bottom, but now this last pic they look like they have a step or grooving or something 2/3rds down and at the bottom. So! What am I looking at ? Why?.

The steps you see are the rings after I had filed the ends to a specific measurement so that I didn't mix them up. Did each cylinder individually.

Quote from: Bfit on October 20, 2016, 12:29:42 PM

mate think of what would the rings look like if there were no piston in the bore.
( usually done to check ring gap )
I must admit, I have not bothered with ring cap for a street engine for some 40 odd years.
Bfit

I had never done it before either. The last one I slapped together was 35 years ago but after allowing someone else to put my motor together it has brought me to the situation i'm in today.

So although you can still buy rings that you can throw into your street motor and off you go, I decided that it was not really a street motor and it needed to be built to a specific need. Mainly

Vettech · « **Reply #27 on:** October 20, 2016, 04:45:36 PM »

Thanks guys, now that I've looked again and expanded the pic, I can see what look like gaps - so rings. Thank you.

70vette · « **Reply #28 on:** November 27, 2016, 01:24:15 AM »

Nearly finished the engine. Date and dyno booked.

Hope it starts

sirfixalot · « **Reply #29 on:** November 27, 2016, 09:11:20 AM »

Put a couple of short 3/8 unc bolts in the 2 holes on the front R/hand side of block one of them goes into an oil gallery, too long it will hit fuel pump push rod.

70vette · « **Reply #30 on:** November 27, 2016, 10:59:02 AM »

Put a couple of short 3/8 unc bolts in the 2 holes on the front R/hand side of block one of them goes into an oil gallery, too long it will hit fuel pump push rod.

The pushrod/oil gallery bolt is in. The one underneath that bolt I assumed was an accessory bolt!!!! You got me thinking now

...I don't have the motor here to check, I have taken it to the dyno guy. I'm sure they will work it out when they prime it for oil pressure and oil p#isses out everywhere!!

metalhead · « **Reply #31 on:** November 27, 2016, 10:36:40 PM »

Nice work! I fired up my new 388 (383 but .060 over) this past week. What are the specs on the engine? Where are you having it dynoed?

70vette · « **Reply #32 on:** November 27, 2016, 10:58:49 PM »

Quote from: metalhead on November 27, 2016, 10:36:40 PM

Nice work! I fired up my new 388 (383 but .060 over) this past week. What are the specs on the engine? Where are you having it dynoed?

This one is 385 (.040 over) all forged internals, solid roller and alloy heads. The experts tell me the combo should get some good numbers but i'll see how that pans out on Wed!
I'm not sure about the height of the carb and manifold though

rosco · « **Reply #33 on:** November 29, 2016, 08:17:27 AM »

With that 25 mm spacer in there you will struggle getting that under the hood.
Not sure what manifold you are using but that combo is good I have used similar in the past with the spacer.
A Eddie with a 12 mm spacer and a 2" air cleaner will clear a standard hood, or go with a weiand open plan.
Solid roller in a street car mmm interesting we are going for some good hp.
I use solid flat tapped in my 383 an it's only a mid 550 lift with 239 at 50 thou and it runs good numbers.
What fuel pump brand is that you are using.

Regards Rosco

metalhead · « **Reply #34 on:** November 29, 2016, 08:45:44 AM »

Sounds nice! How big is the roller, and what heads? Keep us posted with your dyno results...

70vette · « **Reply #35 on:** November 29, 2016, 12:01:11 PM »

Quote from: rosco on November 29, 2016, 08:17:27 AM

With that 25 mm spacer in there you will struggle getting that under the hood.
Not sure what manifold you are using but that combo is good I have used similar in the past with the spacer.
A Eddie with a 12 mm spacer and a 2" air cleaner will clear a standard hood, or go with a weiand open plan.
Solid roller in a street car mmm interesting we are going for some good hp.
I use solid flat tapped in my 383 an it's only a mid 550 lift with 239 at 50 thou and it runs good numbers.
What fuel pump brand is that you are using.

Regards Rosco

The old setup is a semi hi rise Weiand with a 2"/2.5" air cleaner with a drop down base and a big block bonnet. That just makes it under.
This one is a Weiand Air Strike and I have a L88 style bonnet so not sure what cleaner to use untill I get it in the car. I haven't explored the cold air box scenario yet.
The cam isn't very high in lift has 113 LSA, the spring pressure on the valves is not excessive but i am using 1.6 rockers. They call it a street roller!!! I had the cam lying around which is why I used it.

Quote from: metalhead on November 29, 2016, 08:45:44 AM

Sounds nice! How big is the roller, and what heads? Keep us posted with your dyno results...

The fuel pump is a holley mechanical but i suspect the dyno guy will tell me to put a electric one on it. Heads are AFR eliminators.
I'm having some valve train geometry issues so Dyno may not happen this Wed. Had to forgo my 1.5 alloy rockers because they did not clear the head studs for some narrower pieces. That is the reason I took the opportunity to go with the 1.6 ratio rockers.

metalhead · « **Reply #36 on:** November 29, 2016, 07:47:15 PM »

Nice! Sounds like it will be a tough engine.

70vette · « **Reply #37 on:** December 01, 2016, 01:03:41 AM »

Had a few problems mainly a crook oil filter which put us behind today.

I purchased the Repco oil filter reluctantly because the Ryco was out of stock. It was like I knew it was going to give me trouble.

These nos are after the 3rd pull with only adding advance to the timing at 2* at a time.

I should be happy with that

rosco · « **Reply #38 on:** December 01, 2016, 09:39:17 PM »

Very good numbers from a street car got to be very happy with that.
Forgot to ask what's the rear gears you running this could be real fun.

Rosco

MY081 · « **Reply #39 on:** December 01, 2016, 10:17:21 PM »

Are you planning on getting it dynoed in the car , it would be very interesting to see what it comes out at the wheels .Ray