71 rebuild

[wabco40]

A bit more work done over the weekend.

I am fitting a Centerforce dual friction clutch, the pressure plate is fitted with a centrifugal weight system. The idea behind it is to add more clamping pressure at high rpm. Since I purchased it I have heard heaps problems with them on different forums. There are vibration issue because the weights get stuck and do not throw out evenly. They recommend removing the weights which solves the vibration problems. I don't want any vibration issue and have to remove the gearbox again so I remove the weights.

I had to check the concentric slave cylinder cushion clearance before bolting the gearbox up to the engine. The acceptable range is anywhere between 0.125 and 0.375 thou. I am using quite a thin flywheel so though I might have to shim the bearing out. Even with this flywheel it measured at 0.325 thou which still is in range.

I currently have the gearbox bolted up to the engine. I just need to remove the shifter tower and its ready to slip back into the car.
I am back to work tomorrow morning so will do this when I return next week.

I have also fitted the rear lighting, bumpers and fuel tank back in the car.

[bfit]

Mate you will like the Centreforce .
I have one behind a BB and find it very good.
Bfit

[wabco40]

Mate you will like the Centreforce .
I have one behind a BB and find it very good.
Bfit

I hope so Bob. Did you remove the weights?

[bfit]

No mate , I fitted it as it was delivered
Bfit

[Scott]

Good to know your CSC was in tolerance.  I still haven't finished sorting mine out, mainly because I got sidetracked on another little project on a different car.

Random question: where's the bleed nipple on the CSC?

[wabco40]

No mate , I fitted it as it was delivered
Bfit

I did a Google search on the clutch and got a mix result of some that work well and others that have vibration issues. Knowing my luck I would have been the one with vibration issue.

[wabco40]

Good to know your CSC was in tolerance.  I still haven't finished sorting mine out, mainly because I got sidetracked on another little project on a different car.

Random question: where's the bleed nipple on the CSC?

Thanks Scott. If I had a thicker flywheel it would have put it right in the middle of the range, it's still ok tho.
I think Silver Sport Transmission sell bellhousing to gearbox spacers, however it would quicker to just cut one out of some 3 mil plate.
The bleed nipple is on the hard line just outside the bellhousing near the rubber boot. I am not sure how easy it is to bleed being there but reading the instructions it can be done.

[Scott]

That's what I thought looking at the pictures.  The way the hardline kicks up, trapping air made me think there may be an additional bleed.

[wabco40]

That's what I thought looking at the pictures.  The way the hardline kicks up, trapping air made me think there may be an additional bleed.

I can't see how it could possibly get all the air out of the CSC having the bleed nipple there as well. I have re-read the instructions and it's saying it can be done, I think it's still going to be a PITA.
I've got a vacuum pump and a pressure bleeder so might have to try pushing or pulling the air out!!!

http://shiftsst.com/images/pdfs/MAG-00402GMHydraulicManual_RevB.pdf

[bfit]

Mate
Mal Wood does a good hyd set up  for the master cylinder.
he uses a ford  master set you under the dash
I have a photo some where.
Bfit

[metalhead]

Odd arrangement with the location of the bleed for the csc. I fitted a similar setup to my MG (sourced from Mal Wood), but it has a second hose that comes from the slave, with the bleed nipple at the end. In the MG I drilled a hole in the top of the bellhousing (Dellows bellhousing to fit a Toyota box) and ran the bleed hose to mount the bleed nipple up behind the head, which made bleeding the clutch very simple. In this photo the feed from the master is the hose coming in the bottom, and the bleed is the hose hanging off to the side from the top.

[wabco40]

Odd arrangement with the location of the bleed for the csc. I fitted a similar setup to my MG (sourced from Mal Wood), but it has a second hose that comes from the slave, with the bleed nipple at the end. In the MG I drilled a hole in the top of the bellhousing (Dellows bellhousing to fit a Toyota box) and ran the bleed hose to mount the bleed nipple up behind the head, which made bleeding the clutch very simple. In this photo the feed from the master is the hose coming in the bottom, and the bleed is the hose hanging off to the side from the top.

All the CSC's I've seen before had the second hose to bleed the system at the bearing. I plan on fitting the engine and gearbox next week, I guess I will soon know how difficult it is to bleed.

[metalhead]

I hope for your sake that it bleeds without too much difficulty.

[wabco40]

I have finally got an engine and gearbox back in the car. The LGT-700 gearbox is from a Keisler kit. Everything fits perfectly, the shifter came out in exactly the right place, the tail shaft is the right length, the rear mount bolted straight up and the speedo cable fits with no sharp bends. I was expecting some dramas but everything was just a straight bolt in job. Due to its rounded case there is plenty of clearance on the sides of the transmission tunnel however there is only about 1/4 - 3/8" clearance on the top of the box.
The floor was previously sagging about 3/8" in the middle (apparently a common issue) which I fixed by carefully jacking the floor up and fitting hard 1" rubber blocks between the floor and crossmember. If I hadn't done this then the transmission would be just touching the top of the tunnel.















Another issue I had before was I could never adjust the T-tops so they would sit flush on the sides with the B pillar. They always sat out about 3 mil.
What I found when reinstalling the interior quarter panels was the top fastening screws I was using where too long. These where hitting the nut plate that the T-top side mount bolt to. This would not allow the side mount to be moved inward. Shorter screws in the top of the quarter trims panels has fixed that problem.

[craigh]

Another issue I had before was I could never adjust the T-tops so they would sit flush on the sides with the B pillar. They always sat out about 3 mil.
What I found when reinstalling the interior quarter panels was the top fastening screws I was using where too long. These where hitting the nut plate that the T-top side mount bolt to. This would not allow the side mount to be moved inward. Shorter screws in the top of the quarter trims panels has fixed that problem.

Now thats interesting.  I have had a similar issue on one side.  With a look

[wabco40]

Now thats interesting.  I have had a similar issue on one side.  With a look

When I was reassembling the car I loosely fitted the T-top side mounts and then went on to fit the quarter trim panels. When doing up the top screw I could see the side mount being push outwards.
The screws I had where about 3/4" long when they really only need to be half that length.

[sirfixalot]

Is definately a good find wasn't aware of that one

[wabco40]

Is definately a good find wasn't aware of that one

Thanks Geoff, might come in handy for someone reinstalling their interior.

Pictures of how it was previously and how it is now.

[wabco40]

A few more small jobs to finish off and the car will be back on the road again.

Its been about 18 months since I started and in that time I have replaced the rear quarter panels with CIC 2" flared quarters, filled in the exhaust cut outs in the rear filler panel, re-sprayed and colour sanded the complete car, fitted a new 427 small block engine and Legend 5 speed gearbox, fitted 3.9 gears in the diff, fitted a hydraulic clutch, replaced the brake booster with a Hydroboost unit, fitted an intank fuel pump and changed the fuel delivery system, removed the complete vacuum system and fitted electric headlight motors, replaced the gauges in the center cluster with Autometer gauges. That's about all I can think of at the moment!!!

I have started the engine but still need to work on the tune. I have also bleed the clutch which was a lot easier then I was expecting it to be. The clutch feels just slightly heavier then the clutch in my Holden ute (fitted with a Tremec).
For the wiper door I am going to use another MX5 motor. I have already done all the wiring for it and only need to make up the mounting bracket. I am also looking at doing a cold air intake but the lack of room in the front is making this difficult.

[69CVET]

Looks like an amazing ride you have there Brad.
What brand is those pipes and headers?
Chris.