71 rebuild

[wabco40]

It's always easy to be self critical, but from here it looks amazing.

It's getting there Craig. I am a bit over body work for awhile so might start doing a bit more on the mechanics.

[wabco40]

stop teasing BradO, put this big ass back wheelz on and show us 

Not until the engine and gearbox is back in Jethro. It looks a bit strange at the moment with the front end sitting about 3 inches to high.

[metalhead]

Looks damn good to me I would be pretty happy with a paint job like that

X2!

[wabco40]

I have been having a bit of a break from the car for the last few weeks. I still need to finish polishing the rear clip and hood. I hope to have that done next week.

I did however manage to remove the vacuum booster and fit the hydroboost unit. I still need to plumb the unit but I will wait until the engine is fitted so I can correctly route and cut the hoses to length. I worst part of the job is removing and fitting the top left booster nut. Being a manual car the clutch pedal gets in the way also the clutch safety switch. I ended up removing the safety switch as I will be using a neutral safety switch on the gearbox. The brake light switch bracket also needs loosening and moving slightly. Having done this several times now, if I never have to do it again it will be too soon.

I also wired in a FAST e-dash to the ECU. Its the same size as a GPS unit and can bring up several screens of data on whats happening with the engine.

[wabco40]

I have finally finished buffing out the rear clip. To colour sand, compound and buff the rear clip from the door jambs back took me 35 hours. I am not sure how many hours I have spent in total replacing the rear quarter panels and repainting the car but I am guessing well over 200. It is understandable why paint shop charge what they do for a half decent paint job.
I still need to do the hood but I will do that between fitting the engine/gearbox and the remainder of the other bits.

Things should start to move along quite fast now, should have it back on the road in the next few months.

[metalhead]

Looks awesome! Well done.

[Lefty]

Amazing finish to the paint.
Rear stance looks great?
Interested to see how far the front drops when the engine is back in.

Great work and thread.
Cheers

Lefty

[Jethro]

Fook Brad, I'm currently in Lisbon Portugal and I'm still more excited bout the way that beast of yours looks rather than the local talent well almost anywayz 

[wabco40]

Looks awesome! Well done.

Thanks metalhead

[wabco40]

Amazing finish to the paint.
Rear stance looks great?
Interested to see how far the front drops when the engine is back in.

Great work and thread.
Cheers

Lefty

Thanks Lefty.
The front is sitting about 3.5" high at the moment. With the previous cast iron block I had the top of the tyres just inside the wheel arch, with the new ali block I don't expect it to come down as far. I am using a monoleaf front suspension so its just a matter of adjusting the link bolts to get the front back down again.

[wabco40]

Fook Brad, I'm currently in Lisbon Portugal and I'm still more excited bout the way that beast of yours looks rather than the local talent well almost anywayz 

Far out Jethro, what are you doing in that part of the world

Have a great trip 

[Jethro]

[wabco40]

Good one Jethro, great picture

[craigh]

Flawless as normal Brad.

Will be good to see the finished stance and wheel-tyre to arch look.

[sirfixalot]

Who's the camera hog hardly any room for Tracy in the pic

[bfit]

Hi Brad
When your custom image flares came 
Did you find they needed repairs before you could fit them.
How were they for thickness  and finish around the wheel lip
Last one did they already have any repairs, as from manufacture
Bfit

[wabco40]

Flawless as normal Brad.

Will be good to see the finished stance and wheel-tyre to arch look.

Thanks Craig. It's not flawless but it will have to do, I want to get it back on the road. I've got the 28 Chev I want to make a start on.

[wabco40]

Hi Brad
When your custom image flares came 
Did you find they needed repairs before you could fit them.
How were they for thickness  and finish around the wheel lip
Last one did they already have any repairs, as from manufacture
Bfit

Hi Bob,
My fenders arrived with no damage which I though unusual as I was expecting some damage during shipping. It's not uncommon to have to repair new fibreglass parts (Ecklers would have to be the worst), Even during manufacture there can be issues when the part is pulled from the mold, It's easier to repair then lay up another panel. I think it's just part n parcel of working with fibreglass, fortunately it's easy to work with and repair.
I had no issues with the thickness or finish around the wheel lip. The only thing I needed to do was bring the thickness of the panels down to 1/8" along the bonding areas. This was done so they would sit flush with the existing panels.
Do your fenders have some issues?

[bfit]

A few issues I'm quit surprised ,
One is reasonable  the other not so.
One is in places no thicker that 3/4 of a mil,
I don't think it will last  to long with out cracking .
Its a big deal to send one back , I'll email them tomorrow
I haven't looked at the front flares yet.

Bfit

[wabco40]

A few issues I'm quit surprised ,
One is reasonable  the other not so.
One is in places no thicker that 3/4 of a mil,
I don't think it will last  to long with out cracking .
Its a big deal to send one back , I'll email them tomorrow
I haven't looked at the front flares yet.

Bfit

I am surprised they would send you that if its less then a mil thick in places.
The gel coat is most likely half that thickness, so whoever laid it up would have seen how thin it was.

You could roughen up the inside with 80 grit and re-laminate with matt and resin, but you shouldn't have to do that.

Let me know what there response is to you email.