1984 Won't Start

[maikairu]

Hello all,

My 1984 won't start for me and I'm unsure what the problem is. I've checked the starter and its working, i've tried to do a starter relay bypass with no luck, and the security system isn't the issue.

Any ideas? Thank you!

[Vettech]

Some more info please! Does it crank over with the key, if it turns over does it fire, if not is there spark, if there is then is there fuel - 84's have two injectors in what looks like a carby (throttle body injection). If it does not crank then it may be the "key" - check the "chip" on the key is clean and the metal contacts have not been squashed down, they have to contact the metal contacts in the lock. If you push a sharp pointed tool under it - you can raise it up to make better contact BUT BE CAREFULL!  Very careful.

[maikairu]

- Nothing happens when the key is turned; all the dash lights and electronics are operational but the started won't click or anything.
- The 1984 system does not utilize the chip coded key; that was the 85's and on.
- I'm under the belief that it's the ignition switch or neutral safety switch.

Any thoughts?

[sirfixalot]

I would be bridging out a few things start with auto shifter / clutch inhibit switch, then hot wire ignition at the plug also test power is there at each point in & out with a test lamp.Then see where you go from there.

[Vettech]

Yes - it's  time for the meter or test lamp. My book is 87 and shows starter enable relay which is controlled by Vats and the inhibitor switch. Not sure if this applies to 84. I don't know of any "regular culprit". All start issues on my 87 have been the key/chip not contacting in the ignition lock. But for you its chasing the circuit. Both relay and inhibit switch are the prime suspects.

[MY081]

Hi Maikairu have you checked the theft fuse a mate of mine had a similiar problem and it was in the security / theft fuse easy to try and no cost !!!

[86er]

Hi, if the car is an Auto, check the Neutral Safety switch, If the car is a manual try the clutch safety switch, that would be the first thing I would try

[maikairu]

The security fuse works along with the system itself. That's not the issue.

The crank fuse is being strange.
Fuses: http://youtu.be/zE5MatHbY28

If that's not the issue then I'm going to tackle the ignition and neutral safety

[sabre]

Crank fuse will only go live when the key is in the 'start' position.
Does the click' noise when you try to crank the engine?
Chev starters are notorious for burning the solenoid contacts or the solenoid may not have enough travel to bridge the terminals.
Check whether you get power to the small wire on the starter when the key is in the start position. If you do you need to have your starter serviced or replace the starter/solenoid.

****PS Silly question but have you checked your battery? Mine does the same thing if I haven't used it in a while and the battery is a little low. Either jump it with another battery or if your dash is working monitor the battery voltage with the lights on. It should hold 12V. If it is low it will drop quickly with the load from the lights.*******

[maikairu]

Crank fuse will only go live when the key is in the 'start' position.
Does the click' noise when you try to crank the engine?
Chev starters are notorious for burning the solenoid contacts or the solenoid may not have enough travel to bridge the terminals.
Check whether you get power to the small wire on the starter when the key is in the start position. If you do you need to have your starter serviced or replace the starter/solenoid.

****PS Silly question but have you checked your battery? Mine does the same thing if I haven't used it in a while and the battery is a little low. Either jump it with another battery or if your dash is working monitor the battery voltage with the lights on. It should hold 12V. If it is low it will drop quickly with the load from the lights.*******

Battery is good. Have two and a charger.

Tried it in the start position and no luck. 

Power is going to the starter as far as I've determined.

Starter also works.

[bfit]

Hi

I don't know anything about the  C4 except for suspension.
first
what the history of the vehicle before  this problem

I'm just thinking what is your earth like.
a hot joint somewhere or a cable off can cause all sorts of issues.

I'd check that  earth and positive cabling  first as you have eliminated the battery.

Then I would  hot wire the engine and by pass all the factory gear and get it running
then work backwards  from the engine  to find the fault

IS there any fuse-able links in the system

just in case of unexpected movement of the car.  put the back up on blocks so it can't drive
when the engine starts with the safety systems by passed

Bfit

[Lefty]

Another dumb question
Is there akill switch?
Cheers
Lefty

[sabre]

Battery is good. Have two and a charger.

Tried it in the start position and no luck. 

Power is going to the starter as far as I've determined.

Starter also works.

Since dash is lighting with ignition on power to ignition switch is good.
In later models (85 on) starter power goes through VATS (security system) then transmission switch (auto) or clutch switch (manual) then direct to the small wire on the starter and the fuse (labeled starter but actually cold start injector). I believe the '84 did not use VATS but had a theft system inherited from the C3 but the remainder of the circuit should be the same.
The power to the starter does not go through the fuse but the fact that it is not hot when in the start position tells me that the power is not going to the starter (small terminal).
If it is an auto, does your hatch release from the centre console work? If so your transmission (park or neutral) switch is OK, if not it is probably the problem. This not relevant if a manual. For manual check power at each side of the clutch switch (under dash mounted behind clutch pedal).
Good luck.