Alternator 2 wire to 1 wire

[mick]

Hi All,
        I finally got my new engine running and did a test run yesterday, all was good except for an electrical problem and all I can put it down to is the alternator.

When I updated the engine I got a billet 1 wire alternator after finding info on the net how to upgrade the wiring, which was just join the two wires and it will be all good.


The engine started fine and Im getting a charge reading on my gauge in the car when the engine is running, the only problem is my stupid imoboliser is going crazy putting my blinkers on whislt driving the car and eventually shutting the engine down untill I dis-connect and reconnect battery power.

Its a painfull one but im hoping someone else may have gone through this before as well and may be able to offer some advice.

Thanks

Mick

im thinking burn the imoboliser !!!!

[wabco40]

Hello Mick,
Do you have or can you get a schematic of how the immobiliser is wired into your car.
If not burn it:grr:

[Reklaw]

Hi Mick,
Is it really a one wire or is it a three wire which is sometimes called a one wire, probably because it has an inbuilt regulator?

I'd be surprised if you put a one wire in, you won't have an ignition (dash) light with a true one wire alternator.

So, does it have a socket on the outside of the casting, maybe with a black plastic plug in it, as well as a stud/nut at the back?

Need to find out a bit more about what you've got before thinking about the immobiliser problem. It all sounds a bit strange.

Bob

[wabco40]

Hi Mick,
Is it really a one wire or is it a three wire which is sometimes called a one wire, probably because it has an inbuilt regulator?

I'd be surprised if you put a one wire in, you won't have an ignition (dash) light with a true one wire alternator.

So, does it have a socket on the outside of the casting, maybe with a black plastic plug in it, as well as a stud/nut at the back?

Need to find out a bit more about what you've got before thinking about the immobiliser problem. It all sounds a bit strange.

Bob

Hello Bob,
Early models did not have a ignition dash light. The brown excite wire goes from the ignition switch to the alternator. The red charge and sense wires run back from the alternator to the horn relay and then to the main battery terminal on the starter solenoid.

I too would be interested to know how Mick wired up the alternator. A true 1 wire self exciting set-up only requires a wire from the main stud on the back of the alternator to the battery (or to the battery terminal on the starter solenoid).
Brad

[mick]

Definately a one wire alternator (see details and link below).

I was wrong after speaking to my auto elec, he left the wire off that lights up the dash when you turn the key.
I believe that's where the whole problem is steming from but Im not sure as what to do from here.



ALTERNATORS
Use early 70’s style with 6 and 12 o’clock mounting holes
March Billet Alternator
Stylish Billet aluminum alternator replaces your plain OEM alternator, 140 AMP one wire hook-up (Does not include pulley or fan)
GM 140 amp 10si style case
1 wire Billet alternator
Part #9650
 http://www.marchperf.com/pg52.html#billetalt



Im a bit stressed right now as I just booked my accomodation in Woolongong.

Thanks  Mick

[Reklaw]

OK, so the auto electrician installed the alternator, leaving the ignition lamp wire off (cause there was no place to connect it on the one wire alternator I suppose) but you think the alternator is charging OK. So the real issue is with the immobiliser. Is the immobiliser a function of an alarm, a Rhino or similar, or some stand allone unit? Can't the auto electrician fix this, or is the problem getting the car to him because it keeps on cutting out?

[mick]

yes the car starts ok, then it starts cutting out because the immoboliser kick in, hazard lights etc etc.

its a vision vae 315-950.

I believe the thing must be wired into the the ignition and since i disconnected the ignition light wire the car does not think its being started. My elec is not an alarm expert and without a diagram I am lost. Autobarn fit the alarm originally I will contact them tommorrow I think

Thanks

[sirfixalot]

Hi mick
If you have joined the two wires together at alternator ( brown - red )this is where it is causing you grief the alternator lite has a pos on it when ignition is on (pink wire)the light comes on when a ground occurrs at  alternator so you have put a positve  onto the negative side of warning lite which would then feed back thru warning lite & then upset alarm it thinks it is getting hotwired. Disconnect the brown wire at alternator & see how you go .

[mick]

Hi mick
If you have joined the two wires together at alternator ( brown - red )this is where it is causing you grief the alternator lite has a pos on it when ignition is on (pink wire)the light comes on when a ground occurrs at  alternator so you have put a positve  onto the negative side of warning lite which would then feed back thru warning lite & then upset alarm it thinks it is getting hotwired. Disconnect the brown wire at alternator & see how you go .

I got that wrong earlier. We did not join the 2 wires I left the ignition wire disconnected. I called the alarm supplier and they confirmed that the alarm is connected to the disconnected wire so the alarm is auto locking after I start up. They are sending a diagram to help me re wire it.

[wabco40]

Hello Mick,
I am just curious to know prior to changing the alternator over what light would light up on the dash when the ignition was turned on (other then the seat belt light)?

[wabco40]

If using a 140 amp alternator you may want to think about (if not already) upgrading the charge wiring. Considering the original was only designed to carry less then half that current.

[mick]

After having the engine out for 7 months I'm fuzzy on which lights came on but I did have one come on before.