Technical Tips > Brakes, Suspensions, Steering, Wheels & Tyres

converting to power brakes

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72vet:
You’d be better purchasing the kit from VB&P as Mick suggested. http://www.vbandp.com/C2-C3-Corvettes/Brake-Products/Master-Cylinders-and-Power-Boosters/1968-76-Power-Booster-Master-Cylinder-Kit.html

Their service is fantastic, I ordered some bits from them last Monday and it arrived in 5 days.

Even with the freight charges, you’re more likely to save $$$. Remember to include the Core Charge to the purchase as well.
Send them / Terry an email asking what the freight charge would be on the item to AU, Then go shopping locally.
To give you an idea on pricing. I had just the booster rebuilt locally for $240.00 :bang:

You’re most likely going to need the brake lines from the master cylinder to the proportion valve remade, but that should only cost a few bucks

Good luck

Benandsally:
Hi th693,

Am in the process of getting this done.Speak with Sirfixalot. :drag:

mick:
On a side note I wonder what this would be like

1968-76 w/Power Brakes Hydraulic Brake Assist
 
Completely bolt-on system replaces brake power booster. Eliminates brake fade and loss of vacuum experienced with high performance motors. For all 1968-76 Corvettes with power brakes.


http://www.vbandp.com/C2-C3-Corvettes/Brake-Products/Master-Cylinders-and-Power-Boosters/1968-76-w/Power-Brakes-Hydraulic-Brake-Assist.html


I know at slow engine speeds sometimes I lose a bit of feel to my brakes at times.

sirfixalot:
The parts required for conversion is booster/master cylinder combo, the booster & m/cylinder gasket & also the bracket which operates the brake light switch. It is longer than the non power brake one & is a mungrel thing to fabricate.You cant lenghten the old one it hits on bracket under dash. The steering column has to be removed , the fire wall has to be redrilled with a 2 1/8" hole saw lower down there are 2 bolts under m/cylinder  which have to be removed the nuts inside are drilled thru.The bolts which originally held master cylinder have to be knocked out, 2 new holes have to drilled about 12mm higher up firewall.The push rod & brake lite switch bracket are swapped around on brake pedal.
When booster is fitted put a 1/2" nuts on before nut to act as a spacer otherwise socket will bottom out before tight
Overall is a fairly hard job with a lot of fiddling to get every thing in patience is required

th693:
sounds like the past few days converting to power brakes has been quite involved. was the brake light switch bracket available and if so how did you source it. how is it secured to the car.

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