Author Topic: 71 rebuild (Read 317406 times)

wabco40 · « **Reply #380 on:** July 16, 2014, 07:09:44 PM »

Quote from: Scott on July 16, 2014, 08:17:04 AM

Everything on your car looks neat and surgically clean. I love it.

Have you thought about using E85 at all? IIRC you are out in the sticks, so you probably can't get it close to home anyway, but if you allow for it now at least you may have the option later. Stuff like fuel line and filter sock compatibility. When I get mine back on the road and fuel inject it, I'll be investing in a flex fuel sensor so I can run both, but I have a servo 3 km away that sells it.

Hi Scott,

Can't say I ever thought about running E85. I live in Perth now so its available.

I am not sure how compatible my setup is to it. I am using Speedflow 200 series Teflon fuel hoses and the ECU is capable of multiple tunes so there ok. As for the pump, regulator, injectors and aluminium fuel rails I am not sure

I think I will just stay with 98 for now.

Brad

bfit · « **Reply #381 on:** July 16, 2014, 08:12:37 PM »

Rite on Brad 98 or better
Leave that E85 for thr rice burners
Bfit

Scott · « **Reply #382 on:** July 17, 2014, 08:07:59 AM »

Not just rice burners. Many of the cars at events like powercruise would run E85 as while it's good for around 10% more power, it makes it much safer with way less chance of pinging. Expecially on turbo V8's.

My mate has been running E85 in his V8 jetboat for a while now, both on his old 350 chev and his new LS3 engine.

Since you are running efi, you have a map for 98 and can add a map for E85. The flex fuel sensor determined the ethanol content and then interpolates between the maps, so you can have half a tank of 98 and top it up with E85 with no issues. Holden has had it on their commodores for a while and call it flex fuel.

Don't be afraid of new technology bfit, plus running on E85 is cheaper and 'green'

bfit · « **Reply #383 on:** July 17, 2014, 02:06:58 PM »

new technology mmm
I'm fitting a LS1 in to my 79 I really don't know why as I am going to sell it but I have started and will finish it
I made a mistake at servo a while back and put half a tank of rice fuel in my 70
well did it like it "NO FN way "
running 24 Deg initial timing, the engine she no happy.

Back to the 79 with overdrive and 3.5 gears it will run good mileage and still put 300 HP to the ground
make a good shopping trolley.

literally hard to go past a BB C3

Bfit

Jethro · « **Reply #384 on:** July 17, 2014, 06:04:46 PM »

Quote from: Bfit on July 17, 2014, 02:06:58 PM

new technology mmm

Bfit

I thought I heard you recently locked and disable your own phone Tonto

bfit · « **Reply #385 on:** July 17, 2014, 07:21:05 PM »

True
Bfit

Scott · « **Reply #386 on:** July 18, 2014, 08:14:19 AM »

Quote from: Bfit on July 17, 2014, 02:06:58 PM

I made a mistake at servo a while back and put half a tank of rice fuel in my 70
well did it like it "NO FN way "

That's because being 85% ethanol, the stoic ratio is around 9, compared to 14's for normal petrol. the engine would have been running super lean.

While it's not an LS1, I'm hoping my 400 small block and TKO will give me similar reliability and some form of economy with fuel injection. I keep checking the price of new alloy small blocks to build myself a 427 stroker, but it just isn't on the cards.

wabco40 · « **Reply #387 on:** July 20, 2014, 06:54:07 PM »

I have removed most of the vacuum system and fitted the Mazda headlight motors.

Everything just bolted straight in, it only required a bit of clearancing on the housing for one of the heim joints. I used L & R threaded heim joints so once it was all fitted it was easy to adjust the length of the actuator rod to allow travel from full down to full up with the linkage in the lock position.
I am yet to wire the motors up, however theres a red knob on the bottom of each motor that allows the system to be cycled without power.

I will be using 5 relays and fuses at the front of the car (2 for radiator fans, 2 for low/high beam lights and 1 for the headlight motors). For this I am using a small power distribution box that can house five 30A micro relays and up to ten fuses. It should look a lot neater then mounting relays and fuse holders to the inner fender.

craigh · « **Reply #388 on:** July 20, 2014, 07:12:53 PM »

What brand is the power distribution box Brad ?

wabco40 · « **Reply #389 on:** July 20, 2014, 07:23:50 PM »

Quote from: craigh on July 20, 2014, 07:12:53 PM

What brand is the power distribution box Brad ?

Its Bussmann. The one I've ordered is bussed on the fuses but not on the relays.

http://www.swecheck.com.au/pages/product_list_series/11/34/158

69VETTE · « **Reply #390 on:** July 20, 2014, 07:27:20 PM »

Brad, im in love with your Corvette... and its BLUE... mad .. too nice

wabco40 · « **Reply #391 on:** July 20, 2014, 08:01:57 PM »

Quote from: 69VETTE on July 20, 2014, 07:27:20 PM

Brad, im in love with your Corvette... and its BLUE... mad .. too nice

Thanks. Blue is my favourite colour as well, as if you couldn't tell.

sirfixalot · « **Reply #392 on:** July 23, 2014, 05:26:14 PM »

I like the look of the set up does the motor have an inbuilt limit switches for up & down. Im guessing motors are from an RX 7 mazda?

wabco40 · « **Reply #393 on:** July 23, 2014, 06:20:02 PM »

Quote from: sirfixalot on July 23, 2014, 05:26:14 PM

I like the look of the set up does the motor have an inbuilt limit switches for up & down. Im guessing motors are from an RX 7 mazda?

There MX5 motors. They have built in limit switches. The arm rotate to the up position and the stops, it then rotates 180 degrees to the down position and stops.
Four wires are used on the motors. Ground, power, 12v trigger up and 12v trigger down. They are wired up with a 5 pin SPDT relay.
The motors actuate quite fast so I will be wiring mine in series to run at half speed.
Brad

wabco40 · « **Reply #394 on:** August 03, 2014, 03:03:11 PM »

I am trying to clean up the wiring and cluttered engine bay as much as possible

I fitted a 25mm conduit to the wheel side of the left inner fender. Through this I have routed the forward lighting harness, fibre optics, fan and headlight motor wires.
As there is no vacuum tank now I am going to use this area for the fuse and relay enclosure and the MSD ignition box. Some of the other wiring like the TPS, IAC, crank trigger and alternator I will route along the bottom of the engine (instead of over the top).

I wired up the headlight motors. I tried wiring them in series to bring the speed down but had problems with them working intermittently. I ended up wiring them in parallel which solved the problem but they cycle a bit too fast for my liking. I might look at making a 12v speed controller to slow them down a bit.

wabco40 · « **Reply #395 on:** August 29, 2014, 07:22:03 PM »

Been slow going lately.

As I have removed the vacuum tank I have used this area to mount the MSD ignition box and the fuses/relays.
I made an aluminium tray that's mounted between the firewall and inner fender. Most of it will be hidden behind the brake booster however it will still be accessible for maintenance.
I have removed most of the main engine harness other then the wires for the starter solenoid, heater blower fan and wiper motor/wiper door limit switch.
I have run a new 6 gauge cable from the starter up to a bus bar located next to the MSD box. This supplies power back to the under dash fuse panel and dash/rear lighting harnesses. It also powers the ignition box, headlights, headlight motors and the radiator fans. The ECU and fuel pump are powered directly from the battery.
I've still got a quite a bit work to finish off the wiring in the engine bay and then I'll start removing the centre consul gauges. These are being replaced with Autometer gauges, I am also wiring in a knock sensor to the engine. I am hoping its not required however the ECU is setup for it so I figure its added protection.

Jethro · « **Reply #396 on:** August 29, 2014, 07:33:56 PM »

sh#t that is a neat set up Brad, real neat as to be expected with everything ya do

Jethro

wabco40 · « **Reply #397 on:** August 30, 2014, 07:54:06 AM »

Quote from: Jethro on August 29, 2014, 07:33:56 PM

sh#t that is a neat set up Brad, real neat as to be expected with everything ya do

Jethro

Thanks Jethro,

I am running a 140 amp alternator so with the extra draw from the fuel pump, fans etc I don't think the original wiring would have been all that suitable.
I previously had about an 8 gauge cable running from the alternator back to the starter as a doubler to the existing wiring but that's all been removed now. This new setup will be a lot less cluttered and more suitable.

craigh · « **Reply #398 on:** August 30, 2014, 06:49:09 PM »

Looks fantastic Brad, as normal the details are there, matching colour shrink tubing etc etc, so neat.

wabco40 · « **Reply #399 on:** August 31, 2014, 09:01:02 AM »

Quote from: craigh on August 30, 2014, 06:49:09 PM

Looks fantastic Brad, as normal the details are there, matching colour shrink tubing etc etc, so neat.

Thanks Craig.