71 rebuild

[wabco40]

Amazing as normal Brad.

Could you not register it in WA with any of these mods fitted or is it just not worth the hassle it could have become.

Thanks Craig.

The trailing arms would not have been a problem. The exhaust would have been more hassle then what it's worth.

It was bugging me that there was very little clearance between the spring and rim. This is why I am fitting the double offsets.

The problems with the exhaust is giving me the sh#ts big time I've got another set of headers on a plane at the moment, there due here on Friday.
This gives me a chance to finish the rear end before tackling the exhaust again.

[wabco40]

I finished buttoning up the rear end.

It's a crude way of making sure the wheels are parallel with the chassis. I then set it up with a total of 1/8" (1/16" each side) toe in. It should be in the ball park until I can get it in the shop for an alignment.



I had to re-bleed the rear brakes after disconnecting the rear lines. The power bleeder makes the normally pain in the ar#e job very simple.



Rear end back together. 10" link bolts, now with 3/4" spring to rim clearance.



The rear lower filler panel fitted.

This is an Ecklers product, it fitted like crap. I had to cut it in half and widen it slightly so that it would close the gaps at the ends and for the number plate moulding to fit correctly.
I did all this when doing the body work prior to painting.
I was thinking of glassing the panel in but figured I would stay with the option of removal.

[craigh]

Good to see the protection while bleeding the brakes, always concerns me if some leaks out while doing that.

Are those 10"  C4 spring bolts ?

Thats what I ordered to use with the VB&P spring given they sit higher than teh steel ones.

[wabco40]

Good to see the protection while bleeding the brakes, always concerns me if some leaks out while doing that.

Are those 10"  C4 spring bolts ?

Thats what I ordered to use with the VB&P spring given they sit higher than teh steel ones.

The bleeder is meant to have brake fluid in the bottle. I didn't like the idea of that, just in case something lets go.
I just keep the master cylinder topped up and used the bleeder to keep 10 psi of head pressure.
I just needed to be careful not to run the reservoir dry. The good thing about doing it this way is there is no spillage.

Yeah Craig, there 10" C4 bolts. I was using 8" bolts before but could not get the ride height down enough.

[wabco40]

A big brown box arrived today with a pair of Doug's side mounts.



Doug's Headers only come in black, chrome and ceramic. I went with the ceramic finish.
There a copy of the hookers but much better quality. They have 3/8" flanges and the #1 primary tube that was touching the chassis with the hookers has been recessed further back and have plenty of clearance.

I still need to clearance for the R&P steering shaft but this was expected.



This picture shows how the collector is angled down on the Hookers. This is the good side the right side was much worse, at the end of the side tube it was 3" low and angled towards the chassis.



With the headers bolted up there was only the R&P shaft to clearance everything else clears good and the collectors are parallel with the chassis.

[craigh]

They are a nice set of headers Brad.

Doug's has a good repuation on the us sites and the ceramic coating looks Great as well as keeping heat down.

[wabco40]

They are a nice set of headers Brad.

Doug's has a good repuation on the us sites and the ceramic coating looks Great as well as keeping heat down.

Thanks Craig.

I am going to still use the stainless Hooker side tubes. Not sure how the stainless and ceramic will look together, I may have to order Dougs ceramic tubes later.

I can't believe the crap Hooker are producing. There a $1000 set of headers that don't even come close to fitting.
 
I've had them too long for any sort of warranty plus returning them would cost too much. Turned out to be a very expensive exercise.

Looking on the US forums the Chinese made OBX headers ain't much better.

[Camo]

If the hooker side tubes fit Ok, maybe get them ceramic coated to match the headers?

[wabco40]

If the hooker side tubes fit Ok, maybe get them ceramic coated to match the headers?

Good idea Camo, I never thought of that.

[Jethro]

Much MUCH better fit Brad 

[wabco40]

Much MUCH better fit Brad 

Thanks Jethro,

I've had no major issues fitting these headers 

I am thinking about taking the Hookers to work and walking a 1100 tonne face shovel over them and then dropping the bucket on them a few times 

I reckon by then I should be able to fit them in a post pack and send them back to Hooker!!!

[Jethro]

Hey Brad, I reckon the go would be bolting the Hookers onto that shovel 

[wabco40]

Hey Brad, I reckon the go would be bolting the Hookers onto that shovel 

Problem is Jethro, it's Electric!!!

[wabco40]

A mate took a crappy iphone video when I was leaving his house.

Don't worry about the ugly bastard driving it 

[Jethro]

 :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: looks and sounds so sweet Brad you make me wish I had my Yalla back on the road 

[craigh]

Does have anice sound Brad, even on the phone video/

Come on Jethro you must be close by now. ?

[Jethro]

 :cry: :cry: :cry: close yes finished NO! :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:

[wabco40]

:cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: looks and sounds so sweet Brad you make me wish I had my Yalla back on the road 

Thanks Jethro, how far away is that new engine?

[wabco40]

Does have anice sound Brad, even on the phone video/

Come on Jethro you must be close by now. ?

Thanks Craig,
I am still playing around with the fuel and ignition maps. I am running the ECU in self learning mode at the moment so will drive it for awhile then do a data log.
I'll email the log to FAST in the states and see what changes they reckon I should make.
 
I am pleased with how it's starting to come together

[Jethro]

Thanks Jethro, how far away is that new engine?

Waiting on heads to have triple seats machined in em ....... on a waiting cue at machine shop.....