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383 kits

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demonx:

--- Quote ---Originally posted by gtc
You could check out Eagle at Dandenong:

http://www.eagleautoparts.com.au/gmzz383_fastburn.htm
--- End quote ---


That looks like a crate motor and not a kit.

I was hoping it would be a lot cheaper to keep my original L46 and do a rebuild.

I myself know zip about rebuilding a motor, but the father in law has done quite a few and is offering his hours, however when it comes to performance stuff he just shrugs his shoulders and says that whatever I put in front of him he'll build.  

demonx:

--- Quote ---Originally posted by mick
i had mine done at come. (original motor numbers matching)

i had problems with it after i got it back, & they were pricks to me.

But in the end they supplied new parts for the damaged one's and i (with some good help) fitted em.
--- End quote ---


This is what I'm wanting. To keep the original motor and rebuild.

Just wondering what problems you speak of (have I missed an old thread?)

How much of your old motor was re-usable and what wasn't any good for the 383?

demonx:
Mick - PM sent

TPI-383:
I agree with silver 1,build your own engine that way you know what parts are in it. I have heard some horror stories that I wont go in to too many details but parts charged for not in the engine, cheap parts instead. I am building my 383 tpi stroker myself and it has not cost a fortune to build a bottom end that will take 800+ hp. Check out summit racing online, I got most of my stuff there except the crankshaft because shipping and exchange rates were too high on that. Only paid $900 for the crank here and its forged 4340 5.7 inch stroke for late mod block.Cast is much cheaper but not as strong,depends how fast your wallet is. I am aming at 600+ hp so I went forged. I have a program for the pc that helps predict what power you will get,it says its within 3%.Its crane cams desktop dyno if you want to run a couple of  combinations send me your specs and I will run them for you and give you the results, it gives you a full graph. I have done a few for mates and it has been close.You need everything but even cam specs and carby cfm, head type, valve size,rod length,comp ratio and header type and exhaust. Its a lot to put in esp. the cam specs but it gives the best results when you do. Takes a bit of the guess work out of it.

WARFARIN:
Be careful, very careful!
Many kits are nothing more than imported recycled garbage!
You will get what you pay for!
Building an high performance engine is not the expertise of the weekend mechanic!
A quality crankshaft bearing [or conrod or cam shaft] will still need to be blued and seated for it's application.
There are "Mechanics" and there are "Mechanics" Those that know there limitations use a specialist engine builder.
If your "InLaw" is up with the program. blueing bearings won't be alien to him/her?
The easy stuff is ARP bolts, Melling oil pump etc etc,
To go 383 is crank and rods and pistons??
Now are the heads up to the expectation??
What do you want out of this "mouse"? [Mine is a mouse also]
RWHP??  

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