Technical Tips > Engines - Carbies - Exhausts - Dissys
383 kits
demonx:
--- Quote ---Originally posted by WARFARIN
Be careful, very careful!
Many kits are nothing more than imported recycled garbage!
You will get what you pay for!
Building an high performance engine is not the expertise of the weekend mechanic!
A quality crankshaft bearing [or conrod or cam shaft] will still need to be blued and seated for it's application.
There are "Mechanics" and there are "Mechanics" Those that know there limitations use a specialist engine builder.
If your "InLaw" is up with the program. blueing bearings won't be alien to him/her?
The easy stuff is ARP bolts, Melling oil pump etc etc,
To go 383 is crank and rods and pistons??
Now are the heads up to the expectation??
What do you want out of this "mouse"? [Mine is a mouse also]
RWHP??
--- End quote ---
To answer all your questions - I really don't know. I know pretty much nothing when it comes to engines, but I'm keen to learn.
As far as the "cheapo" kits on ebay etc you're warning me away from, I'm probably better off leaving my L46 as it is!
I'm still Keen to find out more about 383's and if it's a practicle/affordable mod or if I'm aiming too high.
Scott:
If you are after torque rather than HP, I know of a virgin bore 4-bolt 400 short motor for sale. My old man bought it to stuff into his HQ tonner, but hasn't got the money to build it, and he's now selling the car. My car has a 400 in it as well. It definitely sounds/feels tougher than your average 350 when you give it a rev, even with a super quiet exhaust on the car, although I think it might be a stock truck motor as it feels very lazy to drive. It puts on the speed really well, but it's not neck breaking, so you don't really notice it unless you are staring at the speedo.
demonx:
--- Quote ---Originally posted by Scott
If you are after torque rather than HP, I know of a virgin bore 4-bolt 400 short motor for sale.
--- End quote ---
Sounds good - but I want to stick to the original motor as it's numbers matching.
silver1:
--- Quote ---Originally posted by demonx
--- Quote ---Originally posted by Scott
If you are after torque rather than HP, I know of a virgin bore 4-bolt 400 short motor for sale.
--- End quote ---
Sounds good - but I want to stick to the original motor as it's numbers matching.
--- End quote ---
me to, mate I wen't for 383 style because i wanted more torque nothing wrong with a good 350 and a lot of people rather the 327.
it is what you like and if you have a collectable model just freshin it up and you'll be happy [for now]
WARFARIN:
Demonx,
I also am not an expert. You should be able to build a strong motor with what you have. Mine was L48 which was at the lowest HP ratings of all time for Corvettes. You will need to see what elements of your L46 are good or can be modified? Presumeably it is a four bolt block? It has the engine number so everything else is up for grabs! Of course cast iron verses alloy heads is a give away if you are talking NCRS? I got a book from the USA about small block chevs and basically it said if your combustion chamber looks like photo "A" forget it! Which mine did and they had already been fully recond! So they are gone and Dart Alloy in place. You can do a lot with the standard heads [not L48], various inlet monifolds, carb selection and cam. The 400 truck motors discussed will be products of the cam, carb and porting. You can tune them to "pull stumps" or you can tune them to rev "like there is no tomorrow" The book I got has some recommendations for 400 blocks. It's a fine line between driver and engine! A 500HP 350 at 7000rpm might be great at the drag strip but totally unsuited to daily driver? 300HP at 5500rpm at a bucketload of torque might be way better?
There must be an engine guru in your neck of the woods that could give you some advice??
Cheers
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