Author Topic: info needed. (Read 5119 times)

nifty · « **on:** October 08, 2007, 10:38:11 PM »

after starting the 74 on a cold mornig it backfired...now the starter motor is making a hell of a racket.....its a high torque unit and to look at it doesnt look very old....what are the oddson me stripping some teeth off? also is the good chanceive done the ring gear also? car still starts but the starter is very noisy....
reading a 74 workshop manual it states that if i remove the engine i DONT take the gearbox out attatched....why not? is this just for an auto or a manual box as well?

Cameron 77C3 · « **Reply #1 on:** October 08, 2007, 11:14:03 PM »

Manual or Auto Nifty? If Auto, don't know about manuals, you should be able to drop the inspection cover and check the ring gear from underneath. If you have to change it I reckon it's easier to drop the box. Obviously dropping the starter motor to check it is relative easy. I'd be surprised if you damaged the ring gear on the flywheel/ flex-plate. Ive never broke or damaged one but have plenty of starters on Holden's and Fords. Could just be bearings on Starter Motor

Not gospel here only my experiences.

Cam

Chromie · « **Reply #2 on:** October 09, 2007, 10:52:56 AM »

Hi Nifty;43
I assume that you mean that you are using a reduction/gear drive starter motor and not an original one ;39

I only fit original starter motors to Corvettes
Why you ask? Because they last just about forever and work as the manufacture intended.
If a customer came to me and asked me to fit an aftermarket starter motor I would refuse as I know it would have a high failure rate or noise issues.;30

If your starter motor is making a noise when it is in use it is because it is not in correct mesh with the ring gear.
I also assume that you are using the front support brace on the starter motor as well.

hope this helps:x

SC · « **Reply #3 on:** October 09, 2007, 10:18:35 PM »

you said it back fired
if the timing is out they will break the nose off the starter
this will also cause a noise from then on
Chromie is correct only fit original starters and the correct / original mounting bolts as they are very important
drop the starter and look

nifty · « **Reply #4 on:** October 09, 2007, 11:18:02 PM »

thanks all...its an auto behind a 400ci motor...it has a reduction drive as chromie stated...it was quiet beofe the backfire....now makes a horrible squelling noise...like something not connecting correctly.but still starts easy enough.....ive only had the car for 2 mths and finding a few things (mostly minor) wrong with it...but thats half the fun aint it? so far ive driven it every day, with 2 long cruises to shows (and picked up a second place).we averaged 12.5 lts per 100 kms on highway,and 25 lts/100 in town.motor is worked but dont know specs... was built by super chev....gets up and boogies is all i can say.

nifty · « **Reply #5 on:** October 09, 2007, 11:22:48 PM »

if you havnt noticed...ive got the mech apptitude of a gnat....my specialty is welding...but i can check the oil.(just dont ask me to fill it as i spill it everywhere.;41)

VET-005 · « **Reply #6 on:** October 10, 2007, 08:20:36 AM »

Unbolt the starter and drop the torque converter cover, put a socket on the front harmonic balancer crank bolt and have someone rotate the motor clockwise while you inspect the ringear for any damage. If you have any damaged teeth you will be pulling that sucker out and replacing it and the starter.

nifty · « **Reply #7 on:** October 10, 2007, 11:31:53 AM »

Quote

Originally posted by VET-005
Unbolt the starter and drop the torque converter cover, put a socket on the front harmonic balancer crank bolt and have someone rotate the motor clockwise while you inspect the ringear for any damage. If you have any damaged teeth you will be pulling that sucker out and replacing it and the starter.

thats what im thinking...its on car ramps now and will have a look after lunch....if ring gear shagged do i drop the box to change or does the motor need pulling? the workshop manual tells me the motor and auto cant be taken out as a single unit.....wtf not?

Chromie · « **Reply #8 on:** October 10, 2007, 11:57:39 AM »

Hi Nifty:24
The engine and transmission cannot be taken out as a complete unit as there is not enough engine bay clearance for the transmission to clear the tunnel.
Simply remove the exhaust and gearbox crossmember and move the transmission back with converter still in transmission then remove the flexplate with transmission in position. Note manual transmissions will have to be removed fully as the gearbox crossmember is not removeable.

back fire on engines is usually a tuneing/carburettor issue (can sometimes be a cam timing issue)
if the starter motor makes a noise after a backfire has occured it is usually a cracked starter motor housing or loose starter motor mounting that is causing it.:drink

Cameron 77C3 · « **Reply #9 on:** October 10, 2007, 08:10:14 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by VET-005
Unbolt the starter and drop the torque converter cover, put a socket on the front harmonic balancer crank bolt and have someone rotate the motor clockwise while you inspect the ringear for any damage. If you have any damaged teeth you will be pulling that sucker out and replacing it and the starter.

And for god sake disconnect the battery. You will know if it fires up while doing this. ;53

nifty · « **Reply #10 on:** October 10, 2007, 11:12:39 PM »

funniest thing...disconnected the battery,pulled the starter,all looks to be in good cond...the starter is new.some small shiny bits on ring gear but no glaring troubles....hooked it back up and all is quiet again....got me stuffed. one thing i did notice....when hooking battery back up i was leaning through window....well the cd player kicked in and i got a boot through my stomach....

VET-005 · « **Reply #11 on:** October 11, 2007, 07:45:33 AM »

You have to be careful with those gear reduction starters as they need to be shimmed to get the right gap between the starter gear and the ring gear. This is a bit tricky but if not done correctly it will end up stripping teeth of the starter and ring gear.
Thats why it is much easier and a hell of a lot less trouble just to use the OEM starters. They just bolt right in and no hassels.

nifty · « **Reply #12 on:** October 12, 2007, 12:16:31 AM »

Quote

Originally posted by VET-005
You have to be careful with those gear reduction starters as they need to be shimmed to get the right gap between the starter gear and the ring gear. This is a bit tricky but if not done correctly it will end up stripping teeth of the starter and ring gear.
Thats why it is much easier and a hell of a lot less trouble just to use the OEM starters. They just bolt right in and no hassels.

sound advice.