Update on the Wilwood Brake Saga. So far I have:-
Fitted Wilwood D8-4 Front and Rear Replacement Caliper Kit, BP-10 compound "Smart Pads", Wilwood vented and cross drilled discs, Braided lines
Vacuum bled the system with a hand vacuum, but was getting air past the threads on the nipples
Pump and hold method, solid fluid from top 2 nipples with no air bubbles
Gravity bled each top nipple x8 for an hour each
Pressure bled the system with no fluid in the Pressure Bleeder tank at 12 to 15PSI
Replaced the master cylinder with a Wilwood 260-8556-BK Master Cylinder Alloy Black Anodized 1.12 in. Bore
Bench bled the master cylinder and fitted with the bleeding kit installed, Booster push rod at 1.5mm longer
Pressure bled the system, air pressure again only on the fluid in the master cylinder.
Pressure bled the system with 3 litres of fluid in the holding tank, a litre from each top nipple x8
Used an oil can and hose on the bottom nipples forcing fluid through the tops, some bubbles
Removed master cylinder, adjusted push rod to have 0.5mm clearance to piston, bench bled and refitted.
Pressure bled the system again, 0.5 litres from each top nipple, solid fluid.
Replaced the standard proportioning valve with a Proflow Disc/Disc Brass Brake Proportioning Valve
Pinned the proportioning valve piston at the switch point and pressure bled the system, solid fluid from all nipples
Put the system under 15PSI of pressure, cracked each union working from the master cylinder, proportional valve to the calipers. Little to no air.
Bled the master cylinder on the car, small amount of bubbles.
Bled the system using the pump and hold method, small amount of bubbles. At times pedal would not go to the floor when bleeding the rears unless you completely released the pedal and then started again.
*** Still a spongy pedal with engine off***
*** Pedal to an inch off the floor when the engine is running using the booster***