Author Topic: The DEMONX 1970 vert project (Read 66810 times)

demonx · « **Reply #60 on:** August 31, 2008, 08:41:35 AM »

The bell housing is cracked, there's even a decent chunk of it missing and the whole lot is flexing.

I don't think there's any damage to either the starter or the ring gear, I reckon it's just the bell housing flexing and when things move its making a hell of a noise - BUT - I have to be honest and say we were more focused on getting the handbrake done and only had a quick look when under there.

MADLT1 · « **Reply #61 on:** August 31, 2008, 01:54:14 PM »

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Chevelle Camaro Impala Corvette Nova Bellhousing 11" Item number: 260277871225

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Title: Chevelle Camaro Impala Corvette Nova Bellhousing 11"

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Tamraz's Parts Discount Warehouse

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Chevelle Camaro Impala Nova Bell Housing 11" New

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Description
Brand new reproduction 11" style bell housing that was used on all Chevelle, Camaro, Corvette, Impala and Nova big block 396 / 427 / 454 motors.
Also used on 302 / 350 or 400 motors with 11" clutch.
Fits most 1964 1965 1966 1967 1968 1969 1970 1971 1972 1973 1974 1975 1976 1977 1978 1979 1980 and 1981 High Performance motors.
Note: will not work on 1962-1967 Chevy II Nova models.

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demonx · « **Reply #62 on:** August 31, 2008, 03:14:18 PM »

MADLT1 - thanks for that - I've sent them an email asking for airmil postage cost. Pays to do that with some ebay sellers bumping up costs!

I bought a grill the other day from an ebay seller who quoted US$130 post. I replied back questioning why she is charging me $130 when I bought the other side grill from a vendor and paid only $40 postage. I also then added that I wanted to buy some other chrome etc from her and would pass if she didn't charge me actual post without up charging. She very quickly replied back with a "new" postage cost of $55 for all the items! Bloody scammer's. Need to be on your toes!

Anyway - I've been looking at these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lakewood-15000-safety-bellhousing-chevy-bbc-sbc_W0QQitemZ250192373169QQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p4506.m20.l1116
I'm not 100% sure how the fit is with the Lakewood's though and I don't know if they're a direct swap. I sent Lakewood an email yesterday but don't expect a reply straight away being weekend.

MADLT1 · « **Reply #63 on:** August 31, 2008, 04:08:44 PM »

they will fit your aplication no worrys,but if your not produceing seriouse horsepower 500 plus then its a waste of money,stick with an original ,nothing will get past the bellhouseing :20

demonx · « **Reply #64 on:** August 31, 2008, 04:11:15 PM »

I agree it's unnecessary with the 350/350 - however I also have it in the back of my head the possibility of a engine rebuild (383???) maybe next year or the one after. For the sake of an extra hundred or two, it's covering all bases.

I've got a bit of quick thinking to do... I might still go with an original replacement.

nifty · « **Reply #65 on:** August 31, 2008, 04:20:19 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by demonx
MADLT1 - thanks for that - I've sent them an email asking for airmil postage cost. Pays to do that with some ebay sellers bumping up costs!

I bought a grill the other day from an ebay seller who quoted US$130 post. I replied back questioning why she is charging me $130 when I bought the other side grill from a vendor and paid only $40 postage. I also then added that I wanted to buy some other chrome etc from her and would pass if she didn't charge me actual post without up charging. She very quickly replied back with a "new" postage cost of $55 for all the items! Bloody scammer's. Need to be on your toes!

Anyway - I've been looking at these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lakewood-15000-safety-bellhousing-chevy-bbc-sbc_W0QQitemZ250192373169QQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p4506.m20.l1116
I'm not 100% sure how the fit is with the Lakewood's though and I don't know if they're a direct swap. I sent Lakewood an email yesterday but don't expect a reply straight away being weekend.

its not just ebay seelers that do that demon.....some of the well known and BIG corvette aftermarket suppliers also try this trick..... buddy with a 69 tri power big block and a 77 has all kind of trouble with some of the larger well known companies trying the " australia is so far away and there is an extra packing charge,and also a fee to drive the part to the post office so thats triple the price thanks" tactic.....
stick to your guns,even with the big shops and they will prob drop the price....
try MAXX WRENCH for parts as well.....he a true vette lover and will look after you...tell him nifty sent you.

nifty · « **Reply #66 on:** August 31, 2008, 04:22:23 PM »

here you go....speak to donny.......
http://www.maxxwrench.com/

demonx · « **Reply #67 on:** September 04, 2008, 07:42:57 PM »

Ummmmm ... where's this hose go?

The vacuum journey continues with a hose replacement procedure. I started this today - its not as easy as it first appears!

TPI-383 · « **Reply #68 on:** September 05, 2008, 07:14:28 PM »

Demonx
Can you send me a pic of your belhousing as I may have one at home.I have an original saginaw chev belhousing with hyd. clutch that I think is on the left side. My email is tasexton@tpg.com.au and I am in syd.
Tim

Scott · « **Reply #69 on:** September 06, 2008, 08:02:47 AM »

Quote

Originally posted by demonx
Ummmmm ... where's this hose go?

The vacuum journey continues with a hose replacement procedure. I started this today - its not as easy as it first appears!

Doesn't the one on the left feed the blinker fluid to the front indicators??;58;58

demonx · « **Reply #70 on:** September 06, 2008, 09:07:15 AM »

I took that pic after I'd already fitted half a dozen hoses - right now I have 6 left to install. It's definitely a job that requires a bit of time.

All the under dash hoses hat go through the firewall grommets are absolute bastards!

demonx · « **Reply #71 on:** September 11, 2008, 05:29:36 PM »

Ok - today I've been working on switches and I told someone that I'd post pics of the door ajar wiring once I'd done them so they can see how it all works and fix their own!

My door jam and door ajar switches are all brand new now and work a treat!

Here's the pics:

This blue and black wire are behind the door under the "rear quarter trim"

You can see in this pic that the blue and black run from the main loom to the left side, then across to the right side via the rear panel behind the seats:

Make sure you poke the wires through the hole and attach the switch on the outside not the inside, as the switch mounts from te outside the same as the door jam switches.

I should also add an important note:

When tightening in any of your door jam or door ajar switches, hold the centre pole (button) so it does not spin, or you'll be twisting the wires at the back which may cause damage.

gtc · « **Reply #72 on:** September 11, 2008, 09:02:18 PM »

Interesting stuff. I'm enjoying following progress.

demonx · « **Reply #73 on:** September 27, 2008, 12:50:19 PM »

Definition of a bad day:

You're remove your interior header and sill mouldings only to find rust underneath that needs immediate repair and then in attempting to do so you crack a perfectly good windscreen.

No new photos. Just obscenities and the build up of a possible tantrum.

gtc · « **Reply #74 on:** September 27, 2008, 01:18:30 PM »

Bugger!

MADLT1 · « **Reply #75 on:** September 27, 2008, 05:20:22 PM »

OUCH$$$$$thats gotta hurt:23

Cameron 77C3 · « **Reply #76 on:** September 27, 2008, 06:08:18 PM »

That's gotta hurt. Did the same when building Priscilla. :24

When ya take the windscreen out, ya may as well and make the most of a bad lot and give that part of the bird cage a good clean up and rust prof coat and get some more clips for the moldings.

69 DIRTY RAT · « **Reply #77 on:** September 27, 2008, 11:37:40 PM »

I took my moldings off around my windscreen pillars and found big rust holes on the pillars and on the top section when I was restoring my vette, I imported a whole new windscreen pillar & top steel bits and had to weld them back on. And my vette was a Southern Californian car all its life?? The rest of the cars steel structures were in perfect condition! And my windscreen glass broke also in the process!

demonx · « **Reply #78 on:** September 28, 2008, 07:58:10 AM »

There's no actual rust "holes" - its just all pitted and will be potential holes in about 5-10 years if I don't fix it all now.

One thing that p#isses me off - the damn screws for the corner mouldings cannot be undone unless you remove the window. What a dick head of an idea that is.

I have not priced the new window yet, but I have an idea I should be able to get one local for about 2 - 3 hundred?

What did you guys glue it back with?

I was talking to someone about it last night and they said make a gerot with some wire and simply run it around the glue and it'll cut, then just lift the window up and out onto the bonnet. Sounds simple. Everything sounds simple till you do it!

69 DIRTY RAT · « **Reply #79 on:** September 28, 2008, 01:19:44 PM »

Im sure those corner mold screws come out without taking the window out, I took mine off before taking the window out! I think my screw was hiding under the rust and under the next molding, I think once I took off the middle moldings I could access the screw????