Author Topic: Torque setting (Read 12379 times)

abacab · « **on:** January 12, 2007, 10:31:46 PM »

Hello all.. Just a quick question on the torque setting for the main nut of a rear hub assbly for a 93... I've been reading a few forums that have said that this nut is very difficult to get off....... THAT is an unstatement...... Thanks for your time... Col.

Vette Obsessed · « **Reply #1 on:** January 12, 2007, 10:45:01 PM »

If you haven't already, soak it with something like WD40 to help loosen it when trying to remove it - and use a long bar for adequate leverage and/or rattle gun to break the nut loose.

The spindle nut needs to be torqued down to 223nm (164lbs.ft)

nifty · « **Reply #2 on:** January 12, 2007, 11:33:58 PM »

if the lube dont work heat the nut.if you do you need to get the heat in quick and get it undone before the heat transfers through to the the thread.it should come off very easy then.just like any nut will..then give the thread good clean with a wire brush.when reinstaling use a good never-sieze of coppercoat

abacab · « **Reply #3 on:** January 13, 2007, 07:36:14 AM »

Thanks fella's i really appreciate it.. Col

Chromie · « **Reply #4 on:** January 13, 2007, 10:24:02 AM »

Quote

Originally posted by nifty
if the lube dont work heat the nut.if you do you need to get the heat in quick and get it undone before the heat transfers through to the the thread.it should come off very easy then.just like any nut will..then give the thread good clean with a wire brush.when reinstaling use a good never-sieze of coppercoat

Do not use heat to remove the nut as damage will result, ;38and the nut will have to be replaced with a new one.;30
Make sure that you have a 3/4" drive bar and socket to obtain sufficent leverage to undo the nut and yes a little lubricant like WD-40 would not hurt.;27
The nut must be retensioned to OEM setting so if you do not have a tension wrench then you cannot perform the repair;50
and finally yes put an antiseize lubricant on the nut.
The bolts holding the wheel bearing assembly also have to be tightened using a tension wrench:v

abacab · « **Reply #5 on:** January 14, 2007, 12:18:19 AM »

Well... we tried everything to get the nut off...... finally after soaking.. heating and re-heating... soaking we finally got it off.... tight........ now for the TORX bolts... does anyone know the size off hand and do they have to be re-torqued... Thanks Col..

abacab · « **Reply #6 on:** January 14, 2007, 12:20:44 AM »

Sorry.. what torque setting for the three TORX bolts... Thanks again Col

abacab · « **Reply #7 on:** January 14, 2007, 12:25:31 AM »

I'm full of questions... but have no answers... I would like to help the members.. So my expertise is in digital photography.... I work at Camera House so if anyone needs any help in that area please feel free to drop me an email.... My web site is
www.connectacamera.com.au

please mension the corvette club in your questions.... Thanks Col..

Vette Obsessed · « **Reply #8 on:** January 14, 2007, 02:35:41 PM »

I'm heading out to the garage to do some work on my car. I'll refresh my memory as to what these bolts attach and check the torx sizes and let you know. ;42

White88 · « **Reply #9 on:** January 14, 2007, 09:13:07 PM »

Abacab, The hub to knuckle torque settings are 59-73 lbs and are size 55 torx . BTW I found it easier and faster to remove the whole knuckle from the car, one of the torx bolts is a real pita to get to from under the car and plus mine wouldn't budge with a 1/2 " rattle gun, had to remove it from the car and put it in a vise and use a very large bar. Thats my 2c worth.

Best of luck

abacab · « **Reply #10 on:** January 14, 2007, 09:33:36 PM »

really appreciate it .. Well I have learnt the hard way.... Replaced the bearing and retorqued her up again... Went for a test drive and sure enough it has taken out the wobble I had but still got the noise I started with... and yes I'm guessing its the uni's.... read on a group that you should always replace them if you are doing the bearing..... well another lesson learnt.. Thanks Col;mmm

Vette Obsessed · « **Reply #11 on:** January 14, 2007, 09:44:57 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by abacab
really appreciate it .. Well I have learnt the hard way.... Replaced the bearing and retorqued her up again... Went for a test drive and sure enough it has taken out the wobble I had but still got the noise I started with... and yes I'm guessing its the uni's.... read on a group that you should always replace them if you are doing the bearing..... well another lesson learnt.. Thanks Col;mmm

For what it's worth in my experience you can identify a C4 wheel bearing that is on its way out by holding the wheel at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions and pushing and pulling to feel if there is any play.

Did you turn things over by hand with the car in neutral with the car on jackstands? I try to pinpoitn a noise before replacing parts. ;42

Glad we were able to help you get through the job. ;42

abacab · « **Reply #12 on:** January 14, 2007, 09:56:01 PM »

yer we did... but the uni's felt ok... could have been a mixture of both I think... thanks V/O

White88 · « **Reply #13 on:** January 16, 2007, 07:53:17 PM »

Yeah , I changed all uni's at the same time I done the rear bearings, I didn't want to go through it again. Because I pulled out the knuckle it made changing the uni's a lot easier, as there was nothing in the way after it was removed. But I didn't discover they were shot untill I pulled on the 1/2 shaft from under the car and then I could feel the play in them. BTW you will be surprised by the amount of wear in the uni when you remove the cups. :grr Bonus was all noise and vibration was finally gone.

nifty · « **Reply #14 on:** January 16, 2007, 11:39:36 PM »

oops my bad...i didnt realise you were putting the old nut back on...i assumed you were going to use a new nut.....NEVER ASSUME.....makes an AS* out of U and ME