NSW Corvettes
Technical Tips => Engines - Carbies - Exhausts - Dissys => Topic started by: johnny86convert on May 17, 2004, 09:33:32 PM
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Would like to know any info on performance manifolds & throttle bodies, price,suppliers general specs and info would be appreciated gang thanks.....I have an 88 convertable stock standard 17,000 miles young. Would just like to tweek the grunt, am planning on headers/extractors,3.5 diff 52 mil throttle body, adjustable fuel regulator? and performance manifold???? any other tips without going into cams would be appreciated also.................;)
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How about an Edelbrock High-Flo system like this? Good between idle and 5500rpm. Makes 18-20hp over stock with no other changes required.
(http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/autopartsphotos/manifolds/3890.jpg)
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can't go past edelbrock.
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I just siamesed and port matched my '85 intake. A cheaper way to do it and will flow just as good!
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thanks gang ,keep the options coming;)
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JH, IMO the "best" intake for you would depend on several factors (mainly application & budget in this case).
If you just want to tweak what you have without getting into cams and headwork I would either siamese the intake like Chris has or buy an aftermarket intake/runner combo.
I haven't looked into siamesing too much but I read a while (maybe a year ago when people started experimenting with it) that you had to be careful about how it was done so you didn't get airflow into the wrong cylinder when you didn't want it. Having said that, I imagine that has been sorted out and info on how to do it best would be readily available now.
If you are considering just porting your original intake (rather than siamesing it) I would look very carefully at the cost difference between an aftermarket casting and the amount of labour you might be paying for the porting work.
From memory, if you decide to go with an aftermarket base, figure at least $400US for an aftermarket lower intake and around $300 - 400US for aftermarket "big tube" runners.
From what I have seen, the aftermarket setups definitely have more flow potential than ported stock castings. I don't know how an aftermarket base would compare with a siamesed base though...
Hope this helps.
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Lot cheaper to DIY
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Originally posted by smackc4
Lot cheaper to DIY
True, but the aftermarket pieces will flow more air. Depends on what your hp goals are.
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and u know they are going to bolt straight on with a lot less hassle then DIY
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"and u know they are going to bolt straight on with a lot less hassle "
Ask VO how "easy" the SR is to fit!
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Has anybody looked at SLP runners, they are larger in diameter and come siamesed from the factory , don't now how good they are and there price is competitive.
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Can anyone recommend a good intake/EFI system for replacing the Cross-fire on an 1984?
Many thanks!
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what is your budget?
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You don't want 3.5s with a TPI in any form , 3.07s are the best combo for street / strip.The TPI with the mods you are looking at will not rev high enough to make use of the gears.All you will get is wheelspin without DRs.
TPIs make torque ,getting the power to the ground is hard enough stock.
Ask VO why his car goes 13mph faster in the quarter than mine but only .1 sec faster ET.sh#t loads more Hp but no traction and he has good tyres.
Get the headers ,forget the TB upgrade until you get into cams , but a cam can really wake a L98 up.Get a Hi flow cat and some decent mufflers.
Mine ;ZZ4 cam , saimised base , stock runners ,plenum and TB , headers,Hi flow cat.13.1 / 102 in full street trim on street tyres, WHEN I get traction.
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lt1 conversion using a speed density system of a vn/vp commodore for the computer is the way i would go
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Originally posted by 87Z51
You don't want 3.5s with a TPI in any form , 3.07s are the best combo for street / strip.The TPI with the mods you are looking at will not rev high enough to make use of the gears.All you will get is wheelspin without DRs.
TPIs make torque ,getting the power to the ground is hard enough stock.
Ask VO why his car goes 13mph faster in the quarter than mine but only .1 sec faster ET.sh#t loads more Hp but no traction and he has good tyres.
Get the headers ,forget the TB upgrade until you get into cams , but a cam can really wake a L98 up.Get a Hi flow cat and some decent mufflers.
Mine ;ZZ4 cam , saimised base , stock runners ,plenum and TB , headers,Hi flow cat.13.1 / 102 in full street trim on street tyres, WHEN I get traction.
Not wanting to negate 87Z51's point as I agree with him 100%, I do have to state part of my issue with my ET being what it is is also clutch slip (not just from launch). Just mentioning that so that people are aware that while I agree that traction is a big issue it is not my only issue accounting for the ET/MPH difference in the example provided. For what its worth my (non expert) estimate is that my clutch is costing me at 2-3 tenths of a second as a realistic minimum.
Clutch should finally be coming out soon so I will provide news when I have it. ;27
I definitely agree with 87Z51's mod suggestions for a quick TPI on a reasonable budget. Unless you are running 2.59's or 2.73's I wouldn't think about a diff ratio change for the reasons stated by 87Z51.
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Mine ;ZZ4 cam , saimised base , stock runners ,plenum and TB , headers,Hi flow cat.13.1 / 102 in full street trim on street tyres, WHEN I get traction.
That is a quick time! Mine has 212/218 cam, ported heads, port matched intake, siamesed runners, headers, no cat, dual exh and I can only manage 13.6. traction down low is nil if launched over idle.
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Originally posted by 77CVT
Mine ;ZZ4 cam , saimised base , stock runners ,plenum and TB , headers,Hi flow cat.13.1 / 102 in full street trim on street tyres, WHEN I get traction.
That is a quick time! Mine has 212/218 cam, ported heads, port matched intake, siamesed runners, headers, no cat, dual exh and I can only manage 13.6. traction down low is nil if launched over idle.
Further reinforcing the point of the traction issues these L98's have as it is...
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Originally posted by Vette Obsessed
Further reinforcing the point of the traction issues these L98's have as it is...
Anyone having traction problems should try a set (or pair) of these Yokohama A032R tyres. I have a set fitted to my 16" wheels and, unless cold, it's very difficult to break traction.
Here's a picture of them fitted to my car. Photo (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v290/ThunderKiss/My%20Vette/01.jpg)
(http://xs68.xs.to/pics/06075/a032r.jpg)
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" traction down low is nil if launched over idle."
My best 60ft times (1.84 on Falkens) have all been off idle launches.
Hold 800rpm on the line , floor it on the last yellow and flash the convertor (2200 stall ).Seems to dig in better.
However due to good 60ft times have destroyed new poly bush rear in 50 runs.Load on bottom camber arms when rear squats puts alot of strain on the bushes which will now fall out in your hand whereas they were a snug push in when new.
NB.For unknown reasons Falkens hook up better when hard.Used to run 20 -24 psi @1.90 - 1.95,
One night forgot to let air out and run best 60ft with 32psi of the strreet.Go figure
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I agree with Boschvette it comes down in the end to how much money do you want to spend /afford?
Money no problem, for an auto -accel super ram set up like VO 's, stick shift- TPIS Mini ram.
There are plenty of aftermarket TPI (stock style) on the market as well.
Edelbrock, Accel , SLP and A,S&M.These ones are all similar in power style, all bottom and mid range.The other two are mid and top end.
In cases( racing ) it could be better to go to a manifold that creates less torque at lower rev's
and more mid and top power to help with getting off the line and not blowing the tyres away. and making more HP up top (60+ hp).
If you all your driving on the street then you probably should stick to something like stock style.IMO the Accel super ram is the winner same bottom end torque as stock but with mid and top end that a stock TPI can't compete with.
That's my 2 cents worth.
Cheers.