NSW Corvettes
Technical Tips => Brakes, Suspensions, Steering, Wheels & Tyres => Topic started by: metalhead on November 13, 2015, 11:28:11 PM
-
4 of these were waiting for me when I got home from work tonight:
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s475/metalhead140/Mobile%20Uploads/20151113_221554_zpszq7inwsu.jpg) (http://s1053.photobucket.com/user/metalhead140/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151113_221554_zpszq7inwsu.jpg.html)
17"x9.5" all around:
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s475/metalhead140/Mobile%20Uploads/20151113_221610_zpsyohhatil.jpg) (http://s1053.photobucket.com/user/metalhead140/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151113_221610_zpsyohhatil.jpg.html)
Can't wait to get some tyres on and on the ground, but looks pretty awesome to me:
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s475/metalhead140/Mobile%20Uploads/20151113_223513_zpsjhyz54zp.jpg) (http://s1053.photobucket.com/user/metalhead140/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151113_223513_zpsjhyz54zp.jpg.html)
And I think the backspace is pretty spot on:
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s475/metalhead140/Mobile%20Uploads/20151113_223647_zpsrnboivcs.jpg) (http://s1053.photobucket.com/user/metalhead140/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151113_223647_zpsrnboivcs.jpg.html)
-
Will be very interested to hear how the 9:5 go on the front.
Only heard of that size on the front with flares.
Love the look of that style wheel on a vet classic.
Rosco
-
Yeh, it might be tight on the front, but I thought it should work ok from measuring, and I got a great deal on these wheels. With the 5" backspace, the offset is almost identical to the standard 8" wide with 4" backspace, so provided the wheel clears everything (which it apears to) then it should just be a matter of selecting the right tyre. But I'm still aware I may possibly have to get some 17x8s instead, which come with 4" backspace in this wheel (same as the standard 15x8s) so should fit easily.
-
Tyre selection will be critical, on full lock scrubbing is quite apparent on the inner face of the sub frame with the larger width of the tyre.
A 255 should work ok but would doubt a 275 will get in there with out hitting on full lock.
It's coming along very nicely and love you frequent updates keep them up.
Rosco
-
Thanks!
Yep, 255 is the plan for starters. Had 255/60r15s all around on the original alloys and fitted fine. I've lined up some 255/50r17s which should be nearly identical in size to try. They will be a bit wider on the wider wheels, but will hopefully fit ok. I wouldn't rule out flares in the future, the car will need to be painted at some point, but I'm not in a rush to do it. I want to get the MG Midget you can see behind the Vette painted and registered first, and also have everything else on the Vette sorted how I want it, to hopefully avoid the need to redo paint or bodywork later.
-
Nice looking wheels.
-
Picked up some tyres today. Plan to have one fitted later this week, and check fitment all round before mounting the others.
Old vs new, well matched in size:
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s475/metalhead140/Mobile%20Uploads/20151115_200623_zpsdpc4jj0g.jpg) (http://s1053.photobucket.com/user/metalhead140/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151115_200623_zpsdpc4jj0g.jpg.html)
Still plenty of sidewall height. I wanted it to still look classic, not too much like rubber bands:
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s475/metalhead140/Mobile%20Uploads/20151115_201806_zpssxkp7g7m.jpg) (http://s1053.photobucket.com/user/metalhead140/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151115_201806_zpssxkp7g7m.jpg.html)
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s475/metalhead140/Mobile%20Uploads/20151115_201658_zpselae3ds7.jpg) (http://s1053.photobucket.com/user/metalhead140/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151115_201658_zpselae3ds7.jpg.html)
Nice looking wheels.
Thanks! I like them.
-
Fit appears good on the front. Since I put the offset upper arms in the front, the standard 255/60r15s rubbed a little in the back of the front wheel tub near full lock, and the 17s are the same, I think I'll need to reduce the caster a little when I align it. I could've fit 275/40s and avoided that issue (~17mm shorter sidewall) and I think they still would have cleared elsewhere. Haven't quite finished getting the rear back together to confirm clearance, but I did have to relocate the handbrake cable to on top of the trailing arms. Probably could have just shaved the bracket slightly and it would have fit, but moving it gives plenty of room to grow later. Wheel and tyre now clear the trailing arm easily, and looks like it will comfortably clear the chassis and sway bar, but may require a shorter leaf spring. I'll just have to wait until it's all back together to know for sure, hopefully I might get the chance to finish assembling it one night this week.
-
Mate you could look at adjusters on the full lock stops.
most stops I have seen are half warn away. Fitting adjustable stops will possibly bring the steering back in to normal range.
bfit
-
Not a bad idea. Thanks mate, I'll have a look at it.
-
when I get a chance Ill post a photo
Bfit
-
Bugger. Got most of the rear together now, and I definitely need a narrower spring in the rear. Any recommendations? I'm considering just shortening the main leaf of the spring that I've got, given it's already a gymkhana spring.
when I get a chance Ill post a photo
Bfit
That'd be great, thanks.
-
Ahhh, Nitto's I love mine :thumb:
-
Ahhh, Nitto's I love mine :thumb:
Good to hear! I haven't had them before, but the reviews were good. There's not a huge number of options in a 255/50r17.
-
Yeah happy with my Nitto Invo's Bud :thumb:
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/jetrhottracey/photo2-1.jpg) (http://s261.photobucket.com/user/jetrhottracey/media/photo2-1.jpg.html)
-
Pulled apart the spring last night, think I'll shorten it. The liners are a bit sad, anyone have a source for spring liners?
-
They look good! Are they the 17 or 18 inch Rallys?
Here's mine on the front:
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s475/metalhead140/Mobile%20Uploads/20151117_195526_zpsxrhgmp5g.jpg) (http://s1053.photobucket.com/user/metalhead140/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151117_195526_zpsxrhgmp5g.jpg.html)
-
If you want to get fancy, Van Steel have a low arch plastic spring. It's slightly shorter than the stock one, however the low arch part should allow shorter spring bolts, which should tuck inside the rim (in theory). That's my plan B if I can't make my set-up work nicely when I get to it :)
-
Danny Dorsett of van steel has them in standard length,
1/2' shorter per side and
1" shorter per side.
I ran the last of these 1" per side and you do get the clearance .
you can get them in different spring ratings 300,330,360 lb
I had the 360 worked well but stiff , if you want ride comfort go lighter in the rating.
Bfit
-
Good to know, thanks for the info. Comfort is not a high priority compared to handling. The Vette will always ride a lot smoother than my MG (very low and stiff, live axle, and weighs ~600kg) anyway.
At this point I just want the car back together to try it as is, so I think I'll just shorten the main leaf (which will slightly stiffen the spring but not much). I'm keen to see how the car drives with the 'mostly stock' (fresh balljoints, poly bushes, Borgeson steering, offset upper arms in the front, lowered inner mounts in the rear, bilstein shocks) gymkhana suspension as a baseline before making additional changes. I hope it will work quite well... Time and money are a factor too.
-
Mate if you go to 18" rims, your original spring will sit inside the rim ,
Well it did on my car.
Bfit
-
Mate if you go to 18" rims, your original spring will sit inside the rim ,
Well it did on my car.
Bfit
What Bobby said ..... and it did on my car too :)
-
Yep, it would definitely fit inside an 18"... I just like to make life hard for myself I think! I do slightly prefer the look of the 17"s to 18"s, a bit more classic and less modern, the 17" wheels look almost like they could have been a standard size on the car to me. Got started on modifying the spring this evening, buying a shorter replacement would certainly have been the easier option, drilling spring steel isn't fun. Almost finished though. The handbrake cable bracket probably would have sat inside an 18" too, definitely would have sat inside a 19" wheel.
Kind of ironic that the rear has several issues and the front fit without any problems...
-
Here is a photo of adjustable stop, original stop is drilled and taped 3/8 UNF.
There is a lock nut on the inside, to maintain the setting. if I do this again I would move it up 3mm higher.
Bfit
-
Ah excellent, that's a smart and easy mod, I'll definitely do that if I decide to limit steering lock. Thanks for the picture! Makes it easy to visualise.
-
So after the spring was modified, the sway bar scrubbed slightly... Not to worry, rebent it a little and there's heaps of clearance now, could run 285s easy. Still can't believe that the rear took so much work and the front fit so easily. Having said that, an 18" wheel and/or a small spacer would have avoided most or all the work needed.
I've picked up some longer spring bolts for the rear too, as the new poly spring bolt bushes are over twice as thick as the dead 35 year old rubber... New bolts not installed yet in the photos though.
Just need to get the steering column back together now and align it.
Try to ignore the mess, garage is a disaster at the moment!
Sway bar clearance (rebent bar):
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s475/metalhead140/Mobile%20Uploads/20151207_180728_zpsmvg6ogp4.jpg) (http://s1053.photobucket.com/user/metalhead140/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151207_180728_zpsmvg6ogp4.jpg.html)
Spring clearance (shortened main leaf):
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s475/metalhead140/Mobile%20Uploads/20151207_180734_zpsym0rpfpi.jpg) (http://s1053.photobucket.com/user/metalhead140/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151207_180734_zpsym0rpfpi.jpg.html)
Trailing arm clearance (relocated handbrake cable):
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s475/metalhead140/Mobile%20Uploads/20151207_180430_zpsqk8ufzbq.jpg) (http://s1053.photobucket.com/user/metalhead140/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151207_180430_zpsqk8ufzbq.jpg.html)
Wheel on the rear:
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s475/metalhead140/Mobile%20Uploads/20151207_180854_zps0febqqre.jpg) (http://s1053.photobucket.com/user/metalhead140/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151207_180854_zps0febqqre.jpg.html)
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s475/metalhead140/Mobile%20Uploads/20151206_155700_zpswjt6booa.jpg) (http://s1053.photobucket.com/user/metalhead140/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151206_155700_zpswjt6booa.jpg.html)
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s475/metalhead140/Mobile%20Uploads/20151206_155727_zpsr6sdmqcv.jpg) (http://s1053.photobucket.com/user/metalhead140/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151206_155727_zpsr6sdmqcv.jpg.html)
-
Great work, very impressed with the sway bar re-alignment.
Just a little question are those spring holders on your spring, they are there only for transport and need to come of for the spring to work correctly, looks to be be two on each side.
Currently redoing my whole rear at the moment but I am running 15 x9 on the rear and have no issues with clearance.
Quality work Metal got to give you that.
Rosco
-
Great work, very impressed with the sway bar re-alignment.
Just a little question are those spring holders on your spring, they are there only for transport and need to come of for the spring to work correctly, looks to be be two on each side.
Currently redoing my whole rear at the moment but I am running 15 x9 on the rear and have no issues with clearance.
Quality work Metal got to give you that.
Rosco
Thanks mate. The spring clamps are standard, probably wasn't necessary to put them back on but I could so I did. Most leaf springs have them, but they're probably not necessary on the Vette given the leaves are restrained from rotating by the mountings, and that the spring doesn't perform any suspension alignment duties.
-
Ok, so just did a bit of googling after reading your message, looks like most people remove these clamps on replacement springs. My spring appears to be factory, but maybe not I suppose? Any thoughts on whether spring clamps were used on the factory gymkhana rear spring, and whether or not it's beneficial to remove them?
-
What backspace and tyre size are you running on the 15x9s rosco?
-
Sent you a pm
Rosco
-
A totally correct F 41 rear spring
(http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n221/roscofree/image_zpssl51jzd4.jpeg) (http://s113.photobucket.com/user/roscofree/media/image_zpssl51jzd4.jpeg.html)
Also the rear spacing on my rear 15,s are 4 1/2
Rosco
-
While you are under there a little trick is to solid mount your front diff mount.
Original is a rubber two piece and aftermarket is nurophrene.
Mine is a piece of aluminum stock made up but it's not hard to do if you copy what you have in there already.
(http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n221/roscofree/image_zpsqyv4hshx.jpeg) (http://s113.photobucket.com/user/roscofree/media/image_zpsqyv4hshx.jpeg.html)
-
A totally correct F 41 rear spring
(http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n221/roscofree/image_zpssl51jzd4.jpeg) (http://s113.photobucket.com/user/roscofree/media/image_zpssl51jzd4.jpeg.html)
Also the rear spacing on my rear 15,s are 4 1/2
Rosco
What year is that from? Looks identical to mine, including rolled ends etc, apart from the spring clamps... Wondering if possibly the spring clamps were fitted to later models like my '79 where the standard spring was 2.5" wide but the gymkhana spring remained 2.25" wide? It's certainly possible that they're not original, but they looked to be?
-
While you are under there a little trick is to solid mount your front diff mount.
Original is a rubber two piece and aftermarket is nurophrene.
Mine is a piece of aluminum stock made up but it's not hard to do if you copy what you have in there already.
(http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n221/roscofree/image_zpsqyv4hshx.jpeg) (http://s113.photobucket.com/user/roscofree/media/image_zpsqyv4hshx.jpeg.html)
Looks good! I had a poly one included in the full car Energy Suspension kit I bought, so I've fitted that for now. I considered modifying the crossmember to mount the diff higher while it was all out too, but decided to wait and see how I liked it (and where the axles sat when I decided on a ride height) before I get carried away with those changes.
-
Tell me your not using your Vette as a work bench :tears: :tears:
-
No Jethro not using it as a work bench just put it carefully there to get a good phot that's all.
Actually that part has a better finish than the vet.
I have lots of shiny scratches on the old girl, will get it done once I finish the under the car. This is not a mudguard like you see a lot of out there.
Rosco
-
Learnt a lot from these guys when I was in the states.
You may know them Jethro you got your diff from them.
Duntrov in Dallas
(http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n221/roscofree/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps783913fc.jpg) (http://s113.photobucket.com/user/roscofree/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps783913fc.jpg.html)
-
Ahhh Duntov :thumb:
-
Very cool! Definitely somewhere I'd like to visit one day.
Paint on my car is pretty terrible, I'm taking the same approach. When everything works and drives how I want it to, then I'll paint it. I've made the mistake of doing the opposite before, and by the time the car is sorted the bodywork and paint is no longer as nice... Besides, doing it this way means more driving and enjoying it as I go, rather than diving into a 4 year ground up rebuild during which I can't drive the car.
-
It was dark by the time I got it chamoised, but:
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s475/metalhead140/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-12-20%2022.48.25_zpszx72j8nw.jpg) (http://s1053.photobucket.com/user/metalhead140/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-12-20%2022.48.25_zpszx72j8nw.jpg.html)
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s475/metalhead140/Mobile%20Uploads/20151220_200441_zpsp8btv9rv.jpg) (http://s1053.photobucket.com/user/metalhead140/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151220_200441_zpsp8btv9rv.jpg.html)
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s475/metalhead140/Mobile%20Uploads/20151220_200607_zpss1ilkvy2.jpg) (http://s1053.photobucket.com/user/metalhead140/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151220_200607_zpss1ilkvy2.jpg.html)
-
Rims suit the Car - nice !!
-
Thanks, I like it! I'd like to lower the rear a touch more. I set the height as per the Vette Improvement Program with the inside u joint 1/2" higher than the outside u joint (and the argument given, about change in toe, makes sense to me), but I notice that Duntov recommend on their website to have the half shaft level. Anyone have any thoughts on which is preferable? I'm not sure whether to just lower it half an inch (as per Duntov) or wait until I feel like modifying the diff crossmember and keep the height as is for now (as per VIP).
Alignment is only rough at this stage, but the car drives a million times better than it did before. I actually think the rear suspension was the biggest influence, despite it feeling more like front suspension/steering issues.
-
looks goods suit the car :thumb:
-
Thanks Jethro! I lowered the rear a touch more, maybe 1/4", but still have the inside u joint higher than the outside. No scrubbing whatsoever front or rear, drove it quite a bit today, though cautiously given the weather. Drives a million times better than when I bought it, it's like a completely different car. :cheers::drag:
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s475/metalhead140/Mobile%20Uploads/20151222_175829_zpsjt3ah4k9.jpg) (http://s1053.photobucket.com/user/metalhead140/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151222_175829_zpsjt3ah4k9.jpg.html)
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s475/metalhead140/Mobile%20Uploads/20151222_175909_zpsbm63qdxs.jpg) (http://s1053.photobucket.com/user/metalhead140/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151222_175909_zpsbm63qdxs.jpg.html)
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s475/metalhead140/Mobile%20Uploads/20151222_175924_zpsf2rhmmbj.jpg) (http://s1053.photobucket.com/user/metalhead140/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151222_175924_zpsf2rhmmbj.jpg.html)