NSW Corvettes
Technical Tips => Transmissions - Differentials => Topic started by: GAS.455 on June 16, 2005, 01:36:41 PM
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Thought I would ask a stupid question.....I have just bought another gearbox to replace the one I blew in '99 for my '75 Vette.....
When I took it out.....I took the engine out first then the box...now do I still have to have the engine out to get the box in?
I have since put the engine back in the car.....
It was an Auto when I bought it....it has since been converted to a manual...muncie.
I took the tailshaft out yesterday....there just doesn't seem any where for the end with the UNi's to go to slide it back when the gearbox is in.
Does that make sense??
Any tips??? Any ideas or advice will be greatly welcomed.
It is sooooo much easier to work on my '60 Pontiac!!!!
Gas
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Yeah, not much room! I had trouble when I took my auto out. Basically had to jam it up into the tunnel and back a bit.
Lots of swearing didn't seem to help either. :b2
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I will have another look on the weekend...but I couldn't see that I could put the shaft anywhere in the tunnel near the diff....
Don't worry...there has been plenty of swearing already!!!
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I think I pushed mine backwards just enough to get it out of the box. Make sure you empty the g'box first! ;-)
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I'm getting the box back today after having it all checked out and new seals and what not put in....so i can start the swearing tonight again!!!!
No oil in it yet! ;29
It will be good when this is back on the road after so long...
1 project out of the way, Next one to begin!!
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it will be good to see will u be bringing it to fox
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I still have to get a few little things for it.
My door handles have sagged so they don't open anymore.
I need to replace them,
And I need to get a new set of Rims and tyres.
Still deciding what Direction I will go with that...15", 16" or 17"
I'm concentrating more on the Pontiac at the moment though.
I may just get the Vette drivable then put it in storage...so I can bring my GTO home and finish it.
I want it for the US Nationals next year.
But we will see how things go...Sept isn't that far off
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I have found even less choice of tyres with 16" rims than 15". Go the 17"!
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it will look blinging with some 18's under her belly
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17's would be the max that I would go.....
Wheels are a little while of though.
Too many cars...not enough money!!!
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17" sounds good for a C3 IMO.
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I would just like to fill out the guards....thats why I want to drop the rear end.
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17" is about as far as you can go without a "ricer look" IMHO. C3's need a bit of sidewall for that muscle car look!
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Definetly.
I sure as hell don't want a rice look!!
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Originally posted by 77CVT
17" is about as far as you can go without a "ricer look" IMHO. C3's need a bit of sidewall for that muscle car look!
(http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/red_90//iamwithstupid.gif)
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I guess mines a ricer then!.......................cant say too much?
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But you will have the width.....plus a Sh#tload of power.
I would put 18x8 and 18 x 11(or 20 x 12) on my '60.
Torque Thrust II.
I just need to change my wheel studs to shorter ones.....front and rear.
I don't think that they would look rice on that car.
It all depends on what rims you choose aswell....a nice set of billets looks good. Where as a lot of the ricers get a set of rims that vost $2K for rims and tyres...but the rims look like they are plastic...
Rims and tyres maketh or breaketh the car!!!
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Yes my wheels are Billet and they look SH.T HOT! & not cheap!!!!
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Thats how I like them...when I can afford them!!
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Got the Flywheel, Clutch Plate and Pressure plate in today....then realised I was missing my Thrust bearing. D'oh!!
Couldn't find it anywhere...
So..it's slowed up progress a little.
I managed to get the tailshaft back as far as I could...hopefully it is far enough to get the box in without taking the engine out...I'm hoping!!
Will keep you informed.
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fingers crossed for ya
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Just got a new Bearing delivered to my house!!
What service!!!
looks like I will be back under the Vette tomorrow....
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I had a look on the weekend at fitting this box.....Buggered if I can see it going in....So I am going to unbold the engine...and just slide it forward as far as I can towards the radiator...without touching it ofcourse.....then I will be able to get it in.
One quick silly question...which way does the Thrust bearing go on???
I don't play with Manuals anymore...only Autos.
Gas
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Just checked my Haynes Manual on the corvette, the thrust bearing has a groove in it for the fork to go on/in. The groove is the furtherest away from the pressure plate.
Click Here For Bigger Pic (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=8/21904233062.jpg&s=x1) (http://x1.putfile.com/8/21904233062-thumb.jpg)
[Unless I missed something wouldn't you be better to drop the shaft completely? i.e. unbolt the uni from the diff. Once the shaft is all clear loosen the engine mounts so the back of the motor can drop down a little, remember to remove your dissy cap or if you want more room remove the dissy completely. With the motor at a different angle, back down-nose up, one would imagine you have a better angle to slip the box in. Just a thought]
Also from the manual:-
Transmission removal,
1. Disconnet the battery ground cable.
2. Working inside the car, remove the shift lever
3. Remove the console trim plate
4. Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands to provide adequate under-vehicle clearance for transmission removal
5. Remove the dual exhaust system. On cars with a 427 cubic inch engine, the front stud on each manifold will have to be removed.
6. Disconnect the driveshaft at the transmission slip yoke. Lower the front end of the transmission [I think this is a typo and should read lower the front end of the DRIVE SHAFT] and then remove the slip yoke from the transmission.
7. Remove the bolts that attach the transmittion rear mounting to the braket. Raise the engine slightly, using a jack and wooden block under the oil pan, until the transmission is lifted off the mounting bracket.
8. Disconnect the shift linkage bracket from the frame.
9. Remove the shift mechanism complete with rods.
10. Disconnect the shifter levers at the transmission
11. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the transmission and the wiring from the TCS switch, where fitted.
12. With the engine still well supported, remove the rear mounting crossmember mount bracket, the rear mount cushion and the exhaust pipe yoke.
13. Unscrew and remove the bolts that hold the transmission to the clutch bellhousing, also the extension bottom bolt.
14. Pull the transmission to the rear, at the same time turning it clockwise until it is clear of the clutch housing. An assistanT will now have to gently lower the engine until the tachometer drive cable, at the distributor, just clears the ledge on the firewall. The transmission can now be moved further to the rear, until it can be tipped downwards at its front end and removed completely from the car.
15. Installation is the reversal of removal.
NOTE THAT THE BELL HOUSING AND BOX ARE FITTED SEPARATELY
I WOULD REMOVE THE ENGINE MOUNTS SO YOU CAN LOWER THE MOTOR FURTHER. BE CAREFULL NOT TO DAMAGE ANY STEERING LINKAGES RUNNING UNDER THE MOTOR
[Post like this would be better placed in the technical sections]
Let us know how you go.
Cam
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So gas any news on how you are going with the box?
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Not yet.
I was at the Pontiac Car Club meeting tonight...
Hopefully I will be able to have a look Wed/Thurs night...otherwise it will have to wait till next week as I'm driving down to Adelaide on Fri morn.
I will keep you informed....and I will try and get some pics.
Thanks very much for your help so far.....I still don't think it will work that way for me though.
Gas