NSW Corvettes
General Discussion Area => Corvette Related Chat => Topic started by: 70vette on July 21, 2016, 12:02:21 AM
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Most of the major parts have now arrived :thud: Some i'm still waiting for!! So the other day[/img] I decided to pull the motor so I can get a start on it.
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Threw me a bit - Right to left - I could see the brake on the LH side, then I realized the S'wheel and steeering shaft is on the RH side, very unusual. But haveing said that there have been a lot of differing conversions over the decades. Best of luck with that.
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:grin:The conversion is done with a cross shaft under the dash that operates the clutch and brakes....leaves the engine bay reasonably untouched except for the heater box were the steering shaft comes through it.
For what it's worth it all works quite well and the car drives fine; I just thought it was a better car than that. I brought the car in from the States in 1993 and back then I had to convert it to drive it around.
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It should all be reasonably straight forward . It's just time consuming .
If you don't have a LH steering box, I have a couple of boxes out of various models
However I do like the Borgerson power steering box.
Bfit
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It should all be reasonably straight forward . It's just time consuming .
If you don't have a LH steering box, I have a couple of boxes out of various models
However I do like the Borgerson power steering box.
Bfit
I have been collecting parts for the last three months. I have to say it has been the most frustrating experience I have had. I still am waiting for a shipment of bits from a so called reputable supplier in the States :lol:. Put the order in on the 31st of May, was supposed to to be here in 10 days....i'm still waiting for it. Some of the bits I need are in that shipment and because I didn't want to have bits of car all over the garage for a couple of months I have refrained from pulling it apart.
Bfit : I did go with the Borgasen box. I figured that it was more stock looking than a rack and doesn't hang low like a rack. Also some of the top Autocross Corvettes in the States use them so I figured if it was good enough for them, who am I to argue.
Just out of curiosity do you have a non power steer Pitman arm? Not that it is an issue. I have a non power drag link and a power steer Pitman and it will all fit. Just figured if I could find a non power Pitman that it would be optimum
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I have been collecting parts for the last three months. I have to say it has been the most frustrating experience I have had. I still am waiting for a shipment of bits from a so called reputable supplier in the States :lol:. Put the order in on the 31st of May, was supposed to to be here in 10 days....i'm still waiting for it. Some of the bits I need are in that shipment and because I didn't want to have bits of car all over the garage for a couple of months I have refrained from pulling it apart.
Bfit : I did go with the Borgasen box. I figured that it was more stock looking than a rack and doesn't hang low like a rack. Also some of the top Autocross Corvettes in the States use them so I figured if it was good enough for them, who am I to argue.
Just out of curiosity do you have a non power steer Pitman arm? Not that it is an issue. I have a non power drag link and a power steer Pitman and it will all fit. Just figured if I could find a non power Pitman that it would be optimum
I just may have one Ill check that Saturday.
Bfit
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No luck on the pitman arm I only have the power steer units
Bfit
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A mate of mine is converting a 67 427 roadster back to Left hand drive. It came here new..
Ive got a 67 ss impala 396 coupe.
It was converted to rhd by bill buckle when it was new. The conversion is terrible (steering box sunken into the chassis).
A few weeks ago I picked up a rhd chassis and im going to fix it once and for all.
Surprisingly the original conversion is hanging in there.
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No luck on the pitman arm I only have the power steer units
Bfit
Thanks for checking Bfit. It's not really an issue, the power steer one I have will do the job no problem but if there was a non steer one around I just figure that it would be optiimum for the conversion.
A mate of mine is converting a 67 427 roadster back to Left hand drive. It came here new..
Ive got a 67 ss impala 396 coupe.
It was converted to rhd by bill buckle when it was new. The conversion is terrible (steering box sunken into the chassis).
A few weeks ago I picked up a rhd chassis and im going to fix it once and for all.
Surprisingly the original conversion is hanging in there.
I think these cars of ours are just not meant to be converted to RHD as they were never engineered to be as such. I know there are cars out there that have been converted well; with a high level of engineering and workmanship and to the uninitiated they look right and feel right but if you know what to look for they still are a compromise.
My car has been right hand drive since 1995 and like I have said elsewhere it's driving dynamics were fine and dandy and I drive different modern cars every day but after driving one with a modern LHD steering box (Borgasen) I was amazed at the way it drove and felt. Just the extra space in the left hand side was a godsend.
Some larger cars are bit different as they can be converted successfully due to their extra space and the fact some of their architecture is shared with our right hand drive cars. E.g Mustang/Falcon.
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My 67 ss 396 ss coupe came here new and was converted by Bill Buckle. Although it has held up for fifty years the conversion is terrible.
They cut the chassis and boxed the steering box into it.
Three weeks ago I picked up a factory RHD chassis. Hoepfully I can sort it out that way.
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My 67 ss 396 ss coupe came here new and was converted by Bill Buckle. Although it has held up for fifty years the conversion is terrible.
They cut the chassis and boxed the steering box into it.
I'm hearing you bootlegger, mines the same; works ok but just not right.
I spoke to someone a while ago that told me that the best way to do it was to section the chassis and bolt the box in that way. That will create extra room and clearance on the o/side of the engine bay with a Cressida steering box and that's how he does them. Well, I just couldn't bring myself to cut my car up like that and being a beater and owning tow trucks in the past, it just didn't feel right.
I'm lucky that the car hasn't been butchered like that and all I need to do is basically replace everything back int it's original spot and maybe Mig up some holes.
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I have digressed!
I have run into a small problem :grr:
After removing the engine I decided to remove the heads to see how things are in there. Car wasn't running right the last few outings and I was going to freshen the engine up anyway!
This is scary :tears:
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My 78 was originally a bar (brake) and extra drag link, was terrible, two different locks and one side the drag link was hitting "SOMETHING". Had it re-done, brakes moved and Toyota Cressida box, whilst a vast improvement, still not the expected "SPORTS CAR" feel or response. One of our members over Clovelly way has perfected and installed power rack and pinion on his C3. With improving health I intend to explore this avenue, I know there are US kits available, at a cost, but money does not grow on trees. I now see your engine pics, would be interesting to here why 1 and 5 are that colour?
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Well the prognosis is in :sigh:
The results of the autopsy 1. One wiped cam lobe. :tears:
2. One cracked forged piston. :tears: :tears:
3. Worn valve guides. :tears: :tears: :tears:
4. One cracked steel crankshaft. :tears: :tears: :tears: :tears:
I guess this right to left conversion is going to take a lot longer than I thought. :omg:
Need to submit a proposal to the joint Minister for the Interior & Treasurer....not sure how that's going to go down. :fingerx:
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Damn.
Best option is grab a cheap runner engine to stuff in and finish the conversion.
Then fix your engine properly once the car is running again. Down time with the car off the road is the biggest motivation killer ever.
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It's not unusual to find these types of issues .
Gives you the option to upgrade the engine performance.
I have a running engine if it's of any interest.
Or there is the LS1 swap ! You might need a plebiscite to go there .
Bfit
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I suppose it depends how original, you want it to be, but a rebuild should allow the engine to run unleaded, higher compression, maybe slight cam, rollers etc, for a smoother more powerfull donk without guzling the gas. I know Ray will recommend a crate engine, his is a great changover, but I'm not sure what else has to be done with mating to box, or mounts or or or or or .... But one thing for sure, as my old school song used to say " Now is the time......."
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290 hp crate motor bolts straight in everything fits about $3K weekend change over. 320hp crate motor replace inlet manifold, fly wheel , and engine cooling & fuel has to be re - plumbed also have to install & wire electric fuel pump ends up about $5k in parts about a weeks work
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Had to do a fair bit of lobbying :bow: :bow: :bow: but have come up with the goods :evilone:
290 hp crate motor bolts straight in everything fits about $3K weekend change over. 320hp crate motor replace inlet manifold, fly wheel , and engine cooling & fuel has to be re - plumbed also have to install & wire electric fuel pump ends up about $5k in parts about a weeks work
I thought about this one but this has cast pistons and if I'm not mistaken a cast crank also. (I blew up one with forged internals, how long do you think this is going to last) :nono: I just figured I would put no less than what it already had in it.
I also looked at Blueprint Engines from Eagle Auto Parts and again if I want something substantial (forged internals) it was going to cost. I get a bit funny when they don't mention what brand name internals they use. I did a bit of a google search and there were a few unhappy people that had purchased there engines in the States. Admittedly they all said that the company had addressed their issues but I wasn't prepared to have those kind of dramas with a third person (Eagle Auto Spares) thrown into the mix.
I decided to rebuild the old block and turn it into a 383. I already have a fair bit of stuff that I had slowly amassed which was going to go into the old motor anyway so all I'm doing is basically going to do a new short motor. Should go ok when finished. :drag:
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Sounds logical to me .
Spend the time and do it your self, it may go wrong at some stage , however you know exactly what is in the build and you have control.
First of all choose real quality conrods and Conrod bolts. Exhaust & inlet valves , valve springs & retainers. Valve seat pressure must be correct to get the best result.
Piston, there are many good options .
Getting the rotating assembly balanced correctly will be the problem.
Now But there is always a but ,
If it's machanical it will fail, it's just a matter of time .
My opinion is
The journey is far more enlightening when you do it your self.
Bfit
Ps you always spend a lot more when you do it your self.
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Blueprint pretty much use their own internals as far as I'm aware. They also make their own alloy heads. The Roadkill guys use blueprint engines in their engine masters show (sponsored) to test parts. Yes they are cheaper.
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Remember lobbying the Member for the Interior? :grin:
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Decided to get off my backside and do some work on the car the other day.
Came up ok I think :cheers:
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(http://rs174.pbsrc.com/albums/w93/kond10/Mobile%20Uploads/20161017_195121.jpg?w=480&h=480&fit=clip)(http://rs174.pbsrc.com/albums/w93/kond10/Mobile%20Uploads/20161017_201937.jpg?w=480&h=480&fit=clip)
Got these done tonight :drunk:
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Sorry for asking, but I dont see the inards of an engine that often, but some pics ago I can see the block and 4 cylinders, nice and clean bright and shinny top to bottom, but now this last pic they look like they have a step or grooving or something 2/3rds down and at the bottom. So! What am I looking at ? Why?.
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mate think of what would the rings look like if there were no piston in the bore.
( usually done to check ring gap )
I must admit, I have not bothered with ring cap for a street engine for some 40 odd years.
Bfit
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Sorry for asking, but I dont see the inards of an engine that often, but some pics ago I can see the block and 4 cylinders, nice and clean bright and shinny top to bottom, but now this last pic they look like they have a step or grooving or something 2/3rds down and at the bottom. So! What am I looking at ? Why?.
The steps you see are the rings after I had filed the ends to a specific measurement so that I didn't mix them up. Did each cylinder individually.
mate think of what would the rings look like if there were no piston in the bore.
( usually done to check ring gap )
I must admit, I have not bothered with ring cap for a street engine for some 40 odd years.
Bfit
I had never done it before either. The last one I slapped together was 35 years ago but after allowing someone else to put my motor together it has brought me to the situation i'm in today. :tears: So although you can still buy rings that you can throw into your street motor and off you go, I decided that it was not really a street motor and it needed to be built to a specific need. Mainly :drag:
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Thanks guys, now that I've looked again and expanded the pic, I can see what look like gaps - so rings. Thank you.
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Nearly finished the engine. Date and dyno booked. :banana: Hope it starts :fingerx:
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Put a couple of short 3/8 unc bolts in the 2 holes on the front R/hand side of block one of them goes into an oil gallery, too long it will hit fuel pump push rod.
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Put a couple of short 3/8 unc bolts in the 2 holes on the front R/hand side of block one of them goes into an oil gallery, too long it will hit fuel pump push rod.
The pushrod/oil gallery bolt is in. The one underneath that bolt I assumed was an accessory bolt!!!! You got me thinking now :what:...I don't have the motor here to check, I have taken it to the dyno guy. I'm sure they will work it out when they prime it for oil pressure and oil p#isses out everywhere!!
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Nice work! I fired up my new 388 (383 but .060 over) this past week. What are the specs on the engine? Where are you having it dynoed?
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Nice work! I fired up my new 388 (383 but .060 over) this past week. What are the specs on the engine? Where are you having it dynoed?
This one is 385 (.040 over) all forged internals, solid roller and alloy heads. The experts tell me the combo should get some good numbers but i'll see how that pans out on Wed!
I'm not sure about the height of the carb and manifold though :what:
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With that 25 mm spacer in there you will struggle getting that under the hood.
Not sure what manifold you are using but that combo is good I have used similar in the past with the spacer.
A Eddie with a 12 mm spacer and a 2" air cleaner will clear a standard hood, or go with a weiand open plan.
Solid roller in a street car mmm interesting we are going for some good hp.
I use solid flat tapped in my 383 an it's only a mid 550 lift with 239 at 50 thou and it runs good numbers.
What fuel pump brand is that you are using.
Regards Rosco
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Sounds nice! How big is the roller, and what heads? Keep us posted with your dyno results...
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With that 25 mm spacer in there you will struggle getting that under the hood.
Not sure what manifold you are using but that combo is good I have used similar in the past with the spacer.
A Eddie with a 12 mm spacer and a 2" air cleaner will clear a standard hood, or go with a weiand open plan.
Solid roller in a street car mmm interesting we are going for some good hp.
I use solid flat tapped in my 383 an it's only a mid 550 lift with 239 at 50 thou and it runs good numbers.
What fuel pump brand is that you are using.
Regards Rosco
The old setup is a semi hi rise Weiand with a 2"/2.5" air cleaner with a drop down base and a big block bonnet. That just makes it under.
This one is a Weiand Air Strike and I have a L88 style bonnet so not sure what cleaner to use untill I get it in the car. I haven't explored the cold air box scenario yet.
The cam isn't very high in lift has 113 LSA, the spring pressure on the valves is not excessive but i am using 1.6 rockers. They call it a street roller!!! I had the cam lying around which is why I used it.
Sounds nice! How big is the roller, and what heads? Keep us posted with your dyno results...
The fuel pump is a holley mechanical but i suspect the dyno guy will tell me to put a electric one on it. Heads are AFR eliminators.
I'm having some valve train geometry issues so Dyno may not happen this Wed. Had to forgo my 1.5 alloy rockers because they did not clear the head studs for some narrower pieces. That is the reason I took the opportunity to go with the 1.6 ratio rockers.
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Nice! Sounds like it will be a tough engine.
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Had a few problems mainly a crook oil filter which put us behind today. :banghead: I purchased the Repco oil filter reluctantly because the Ryco was out of stock. It was like I knew it was going to give me trouble. :grr: :grr: :grr:
These nos are after the 3rd pull with only adding advance to the timing at 2* at a time.
I should be happy with that :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin:
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Very good numbers from a street car got to be very happy with that.
Forgot to ask what's the rear gears you running this could be real fun.
Rosco
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Are you planning on getting it dynoed in the car , it would be very interesting to see what it comes out at the wheels .Ray
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Very good numbers from a street car got to be very happy with that.
Forgot to ask what's the rear gears you running this could be real fun.
Rosco
Am running 3.5s in the back with a Muncie. The boys tell me it might be a bit of a hand full if my driving gets to spirited :grin:
The words "Make sure the clutch is a good one keep ringing in my head" :drag:
Are you planning on getting it dynoed in the car , it would be very interesting to see what it comes out at the wheels .Ray
Need to finish the conversion and get it back on the road before anything like that but maybe in the future! I would say app 25% loss would come close though.
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when it comes to clutches, I lean towards Centerforce clutchs.
worth a look when you buy a clutch,
Bfit
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when it comes to clutches, I lean towards Centerforce clutchs.
worth a look when you buy a clutch,
Bfit
Allready running a Centerforce Clutch. Just tossing up whether to get a new clutch plate or just a whole new setup. Its doesn't have that many klm's on it. It had some heat spots on it and had a small shudder on take off but I blocked the pressure plate face down with some emery cloth and a block and the heat spots have dissapeared. Looks like I have machined the face. Didn't take much to clean it up. I'm thinking it should be ok. The plate still has plenty of meat left on it too.
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Ok! Decided to get off my backside and get some work done. Thought I should do some work on it seeing I haven't touched it since Christmas decided to get a move on. My son keeps reminding that his year 10 formal will be on around September and he wants the car going in no uncertain terms.
Cut and made up some new spark plug leads on Saturday.
Ripped the dash and console out today.
All ready to dummy everything up.
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A good opportunity to insulate the firewall all the way up to the windscreen pain job but the end result is good
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Missed the dyno sheets before, looks good! :drag:
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A good opportunity to insulate the firewall all the way up to the windscreen pain job but the end result is good
I'm going to insulate the firewall but not sure if I should go with the factory style felt and insulation or get some Dynamat. Interested to hear if anyone has done this before and whag kind of results they got.
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Dynamat the inside firewall and floor/Tracy tunnel ( dynamat 10465 will do the complete inside of the vette 9 of 48''x 24'' sections )
And do the under floor,trans tunnel, lower firewall with DEI-050502
I got good results with the above
Bfit
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My 78 is insulated with a high density foam 10mm thick with aluminium foil backing works great. Foam is similar to the expansion joint material they use in concrete is available from bunnings & clarke rubber about 2.5 m does a C3. I have patterns for the floor
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Dyna matted all of the car interior with 10465 just a Bfit stated then used the factory installation on the under dash area. Used a very good carpet insulation on the rest of the floor before the carpet.
This installation had a aluminum backing to it. Took some time but very happy with result.
Still have a little heat coming from the long tube headers as they only sit a about 1/2" from the floor near the transmission tunnel.Have wrapped them in that heat tape but may need to put a second layer over them.
Rosco
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My 78 is insulated with a high density foam 10mm thick with aluminium foil backing works great. Foam is similar to the expansion joint material they use in concrete is available from bunnings & clarke rubber about 2.5 m does a C3. I have patterns for the floor
I would be interested in the patterns! Sirfixalot.
It sèems the Dynamat seems the way to go for sound insulationDynamat the inside firewall and floor/Tracy tunnel ( dynamat 10465 will do the complete inside of the vette 9 of 48''x 24'' sections )
And do the under floor,trans tunnel, lower firewall with DEI-050502
I got good results with the above
Bfit
Did you do the underside of the floor and if so how does DEI handle the elements?
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Hope I remember how to put it back together!
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Pretty easy if you need a hand give me a call
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Pretty easy if you need a hand give me a call
Thank you for the offer.
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Just realised that the Idler arm bracket has been chopped of in the conversion.
Just on the off chance, anybody got one of these that they have taken off a previouse conversion.
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It wouldn't ne hard to make. I can measure one for you if that would help
Bfit
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I have a piece cut for RHD steer box support it hasn't been bent yet all you will have to do is bend it the opposite way. Piece of 50 mm x 3 flat bar & an angle grinder will also do the job Make a template out of a cerial box much easier to cut & bend to get right.Rescued the AC bits for you from the departure lounge
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I have a piece cut for RHD steer box support it hasn't been bent yet all you will have to do is bend it the opposite way. Piece of 50 mm x 3 flat bar & an angle grinder will also do the job Make a template out of a cerial box much easier to cut & bend to get right.Rescued the AC bits for you from the departure lounge
I have a similar piece welded on there for the RHD box that was on there. But trying to keep it looking original as I can. Can buy the bit from USA for $15 but seems silly by the time they stiff you for delivery and conversion to AUD you have payed $50 for 2"×2"of 3mm plate with a hole drilled in the middle of it. Let me know when is a good time to pick up those aircon bits :drunk:
It wouldn't ne hard to make. I can measure one for you if that would help
Bfit
If you are taking the measurments from an original one that would be good. I could copy ot all down on a piece of cardboard and superimpose it on to some 3mm plate and fold it up and mig it on.
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I'll get it done Saturday
Bfit
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I found it easier to make the bit than draw it .
How do we get it to you
You will need to get this in the correct place ,
Does your chassis still have the original engine mounts
Bfit
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I found it easier to make the bit than draw it .
How do we get it to you
You will need to get this in the correct place ,
Does your chassis still have the original engine mounts
Bfit
Yes chassis is still original engine mounts with just a block/bracket to bolt the Toyota box too in the area where this bracket should be. The problem is that it is welded further back than where this bracket needs to be. Am going to use a Borgasen box but I have dummy fitted an old steering box that I got from sirfixalot, bolted a drag link in with an idler arm on so I can get the correct measurements to weld this bracket on. I'll give you a ring during the day tomorrow and talk to you about picking it up.
Your one looks nicer than the one I made. Only had some checker plate around and I think it was to thick so it didn't bend nice like yours :grin:
I noticed you have a Borgasen box fitted to your car, question is when I trial fitted the Borgasen box to my car, I noticed that the tie rod on the pitman arm side had moved very close to the bottom control arm, too close if you ask me. When I bolted the original box on, it had more clearance. Did you have any issues with your box install? The car is sitting on the front wheels on ramps and the back of the car is on stands with no motor in it yet.
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I have read that some cars do have problem with clearance.
I think its a problem with the variations in production tolerances .
I would first check the diagonals across the chassis to make sure its all square,
I think you should have at least 10mm clearance, I have see people take the grease nipple out and fit a plug to get more clearance
just refit a nipple each service to grease.
bfit
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Don't you have to use the non power steer pitman arm with the borgenson box? From memory Willcox Corvette have a pic of the difference. Non power steer cars use the rear holes in steering arms.Power use the front holes
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Don't you have to use the non power steer pitman arm with the borgenson box? From memory Willcox Corvette have a pic of the difference. Non power steer cars use the rear holes in steering arms.Power use the front holes
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I would hazard a guess that the 2 arms have the same throw and the diffrence between the 2 the bend/height.I am using a non steer drag link with the pitman arm you gave me. After looking on their site all is as they suggest from a parts point of view. On some of the forums some guys have complained of their tie rods even hitting. I have noticed though that everyone that has this issue has the engine out. All the others that have done the swap with the engine in don't seem to have a problem. I wouldn't have thought there was that much flex in the chassis!🤐
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I think the pitman arms are different, only for the purpose of clearance on the hydraulic cylinder.
in toe power steering equipped models.
Bfit
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Anyone know the trick to getting this plate out of the bottom of the steering housing? Kind off got me a bit stumped. I know theres a trick to it just can't figure it out. :lol:
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I have a PDF on the column .
Some where , I'll look for it
Bfit
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Yeh, I printed them out when I did mine - do a google for Jim Shea's papers on the steering column.
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Better yet: http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/
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Better yet: http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/
This is the one I was referring too.
Bfit
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Is the tube at top broken from metal fatigue ? or are you just trying to get the ring out
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Looks to me you just slide it up at about 2 o clock. before removing put some texta on top side for re- assembly
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Looks to me you just slide it up at about 2 o clock. before removing put some texta on top side for re- assembly
There is a bit of a trick to getting it out. A small twist and a lift and it should fall out. Just can't seem to get it out. Even found a video on youtube, just wont come out.
Have to change the bottom tube on the column due to the tube being compressed for the right hand conversion. The shaft is ok just the tube. Have the rest of the column apart.
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Never had a problem getting the ring out, perhaps it is bent in slightly
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So I decided to put my steering column back together and after realising that the shift tube that I got was slightly collapsed I thought no problem Ill deal with that. So i exteded it back to where it needs to be and it seems tight enough but when I started to put it together I noticed my nicely painted steering tube is modified/cut up. Can't believe I didnt pick up on it.
Question is for those that know, how detrimental are the extra ears/extension. Do they stop the lock plate from moving up and down and allow the lock tube to move smoothly? Or do I go out and find another tube?
What a pain in the backside :banghead:
O
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The tags hold the screw plate in that you screw the tilt knuckle too the column will pull apart when assembled you can remove the bottom tube from the top tube by screwing it out lubricate well prior to doing it. The part that is missing on top of tube is what normally breaks off from metal fatigue if you lean on column getting in & out of car. I have had them tig welded back together with no problem
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I thought they were pressed together with a plastic sleeve and ball bearings as an interference fit between both tubes; at least that's how my original tube was. I did a bit of a practice run on my old one first.
Need to measure the length and orientation of the second tube so it goes in correctly. I'm a little confused now when you say screwing it out/in.
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Has like a coarse thread in plastic piece inside tube the balls run in as it turns in can't rememeber exactly how it goes now but I had to replace lower tube on my 79 which had been shortened for RHD conversion
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All done. :pepper: Ran some masking tape around the bottom tube and marked certain spots and measured how deep it was in the tube then pushed it out on a press; came out easy enough. I then transfered it to the other tube and put it back in. Practiced on the old tube first. If the steering column was worn or crook I would just go and get another one but it was good no slop, tilt nice and tight and for what they charge; well I had to have a go at fixing it. Always freak myself out before I do a job that i haven't done or seen done before :grin: now no problem do a tilt steering column with my eyes closed. Now I got to paint the bloody thing again.
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(https://s1.postimg.org/2pnijksqm7/20170913_102017.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/1tr144j263/)(https://s1.postimg.org/2mgo011vun/20170913_201123.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/1cdqtpjwjf/)
Hi all. Haven't been on for a while, busy with work, family and kids with broken arms :omg:
Got around to getting the engine bay painted the other day.
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if you are interested ,
I have a 70 model fixed steering column that was overhauled and fitted to my 70 when I bought it.
replaced it with a tilt.
I have a stock steering box drag link, idler, pitman arm , as well if of any use to you
Bfit
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(https://s1.postimg.org/5p50xwmpjj/20170427_213702.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/6hhwfn3b9n/) Thanks for the offer Bfit. Is the pitman arm off a non powersteer car? I already have a pitman arm and idler arm. But a non steer pitman arm would work better with the Borgasen steering box. I managed to build a steering column from the 2 tubes that i had.
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The pitman arm came with a lot I bought , I’ll see what it is tomorrow and let u know .
Your well into the column , I see .
I was checking out a hq holden column this week , I think the bottom half would work with a vette column
The hq has a collapsible section that is a better design than the vette
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(https://s1.postimg.org/6vb3bw1q8v/20171002_210244.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/1jw6r6fnkr/)
Rub, rub, grind this is painfull.
Next time i'll pay the sandblaster. Quicker, faster, cheaper; in the end, ends up a better job.
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Check the vacuum tank for splits in the bottom of swages have seen 2 like it. I can test it for you if needed with vacuum pump. Or immerse in water with compressed air inside
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Thank you for the offer Sirfixalot!...after its painted ill submerge it in the tank with some low air pressure and see if it bubbles. I must say I didnt even think about that but I suspect it is ok. The welds all look clean and good and the fact that it didn't seem to leak before pulling the car apart makes me feel confident its ok😎.
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Be careful the canister is designed for vacuum , it would be best to test at 15 to 20 in/mq and hold that for half an hour with no looses.
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I would be checking before painting also may be pinholed with rust inside is only bright sheet steel. After testing squirt a bit of clean oil inside & sloosh around to coat inside
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Ummm oil is good, but fish oil or something that coats and sticks evenly would be a bit better, Lanolin oil !?, Chain lub is probably too sticky ichy to evenly coat.
Definitely check before paint, paint can cover a multitude of sins. (for a while)
And Bfit is right (oh bite my tongue) about putting pressure in - only a few psi, tub of water and wash up detergent.
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Ill let you guys know how I go with it. I was going to block all but one outlet and blow some compressed air at very low pressure and spray some soapy water around the weld and outlets😎
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The bottom of swages where the metal is stretched is where the splits appear
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Put spring in on front suspension tonight :omg: That was fun with no motor in the car :banghead: Ill do the otherside tomorrow night :grr:
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The second spring literally just fell in. Set myself up to have a monumental fight and in 20minutes it was in😎. Go figure. Im sure the car knows and just plays with me😂
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have a look at the spring that was difficult make sure it is seating in the top housing correctly.
there is a guide in the top that the spring can get hung-up on .
aftermarket spring are usually shorter that the originals, they can be just put up and lift the bottom control arm up and bolt to the spindle. No jack needed.
original length spring are a completely different story.
bfit
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have a look at the spring that was difficult make sure it is seating in the top housing correctly.
there is a guide in the top that the spring can get hung-up on .
aftermarket spring are usually shorter that the originals, they can be just put up and lift the bottom control arm up and bolt to the spindle. No jack needed.
original length spring are a completely different story.
bfit
I did that on the first spring and made sure it was in its place properly.
The problem was I was using some high tensile threaded rod with some quarter inch plate and it was bending the spring as it was compressing.
Too scabby to spring the $120 or so for a proper spring compressor :grin:
I have put these back in but might have to pull them back out after it is back on the ground with the motor in it. I've taken a little bit of weight off the front and want to see if it will sit higher or not. I might put in some lowered/stiffer springs if it's to high.
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ok I get it
you have original length stile springs, the aftermarket one`s I see are about 4'' shorter than the originals free length.
dead easy to install.
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[imghttp://(https://s8.postimg.org/sa52s7nit/20171112_211028.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/8safc9qkx/)/img]
[url(https://s8.postimg.org/96brbqsn9/20171115_165455.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/aldc0gtq9/)[/url]
Got a little bit busy today and got the whole front suspension and steering bolted back up :pepper: Did ok, only lost one washer :banana:
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When you fit AC components use lots of windscreen sealant & hot wire fan so you can check for leaks as you go. Make sure you seal up the vertical cavity where water pipes enter to AC duct. Is the cause why vet AC isn't very efficient. Make a seal between inner & outer pieces. Make sure the cold air & engine hot air don't mix. Check Check Check as you go
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When you fit AC components use lots of windscreen sealant & hot wire fan so you can check for leaks as you go. Make sure you seal up the vertical cavity where water pipes enter to AC duct. Is the cause why vet AC isn't very efficient. Make a seal between inner & outer pieces. Make sure the cold air & engine hot air don't mix. Check Check Check as you go
Yep! I'll keep that in mind. I've heard from others that that is the biggest issue with hot air getting into a C3 corvette. I have a whole set of new seals for the Air/Heater system. I also have a C4 blower fan which I may consider mounting into the housing with a spacer. Apparently due to the shape of the fan, pushes a greater volume of air through the system.
While I'm at it does anybody have a radiator overflow tank that mounts on the o/side inner guard that they may want to sell or give away to a worthy cause :grin:
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I made a spacer from a couple of nylon cutting boards from supermarket I think a 10mm & a 6mm cut it out with a jigsaw
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[imghttp://(https://s9.postimg.org/600jqhj67/20180212_211204.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/sbycjvia3/)[/img]
(http://)Hi kids!!😀. Hope we all had a great Christmas and a happy New Year :drunk:
Got off my backside tonight and decided to bolt in the new pedal box and the Hydratec booster and master cylinder. Still have to bleed it (that will be fun) :rol:
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(https://s17.postimg.org/7tj8nv63j/20180330_175751.jpg)[/u :grr: :grr: :omg:rl] :banghead: This is supposed to be therapeutic!!! Trying to save the dash harness. Im close to packing it in an buying a new one :thud: :thud: :thud: :tears: :tears: (https://postimg.org/image/mcqdp9z8b/)
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Easy just remove individual wires from the plugs & untangle a large board on top of a couple of garbage bins measure out what is required then put nails in board then lay loom up on board.Solder joints,Use heat shrink & stagger all your joints. If you can get an old loom out of a Hq - Hj holden you can utilise some of wires & crimp ends some plugs are the same, colour code is pretty much the same. I used a premier loom for headlights on my 78. Just untapped & relayed it up how I wanted it
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Easy just remove individual wires from the plugs & untangle a large board on top of a couple of garbage bins measure out what is required then put nails in board then lay loom up on board.Solder joints,Use heat shrink & stagger all your joints. If you can get an old loom out of a Hq - Hj holden you can utilise some of wires & crimp ends some plugs are the same, colour code is pretty much the same. I used a premier loom for headlights on my 78. Just untapped & relayed it up how I wanted it
Jeez...talk about getting caught up in my own world. Didn't even think about HQ/WB wiring looms as spare parts :lol:
I was just frustrated with shortening the loom (Back to original lengths from the extended version from RHD conversion) and having to solder so many different wires. I am short some plugs and yes as you say, "the HQ/WB would be very similar"....thank you for the tip :thumb:
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If you get stuck I have lots of plugs & an old loom from an 80 model
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If you get stuck I have lots of plugs & an old loom from an 80 model
I have sent you a PM.
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Have a look at posting 23 here
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-general/1945352-anyone-have-a-pdf-of-a-1970-bb-cpe-wiring-diagram-2.html#post1564233097
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(https://s17.postimg.org/tcyr72667/1970-corvette-wire-schematic-tracer.png) (https://postimg.org/image/p3u14w2wr/)
Have a look at posting 23 here
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-general/1945352-anyone-have-a-pdf-of-a-1970-bb-cpe-wiring-diagram-2.html#post1564233097
I have that coloured diagram and have been using it. I also got my assembly manual and photo copied the diagram and sticky taped about 8 A4 sheets to create one large diagram.
Then I found the one above! Lol! Exactly the same.
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The one in colour is handy.
I made up a loom today to make the installation of the speedo/tachometer dash section easier.
not that you need a schematic for that little mod
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It's not that the job is difficult it's just that I have never eyeballed a standard loom so just flying blind, coupled with the fact that some plugs are missing, the loom a little butchered and not sure if I have the lengths correct. I am going up tonight to shorten the dash globes. Some of them also need replacement due to the retainers being broken. So that just means that that job won't be totally finished; and thats were the frustration lies!
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I have an A3 drawing , that a friend gave me, very handy
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What do you mean...as in a drawing of a actuall loom or the diagram as i posted earlier?
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It's not that the job is difficult it's just that I have never eyeballed a standard loom so just flying blind, coupled with the fact that some plugs are missing, the loom a little butchered and not sure if I have the lengths correct. I am going up tonight to shorten the dash globes. Some of them also need replacement due to the retainers being broken. So that just means that that job won't be totally finished; and thats were the frustration lies!
Yes the metal section pulls out of the plastic , I have glued a few back together just a little silastic will work leave for a few days to cure.
Or Dorman 85805 will work. The fitting out of a HR Holden dash will work as well
If you need the two,wire one of the top middle of the tachometer I haven’t need one of those so have not looked of one
The bulbs are BA9 size , if you want to go to LED there are holder options for the T5 bulb .
I’ll take a photo tomorrow of the rear of my dash .
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What do you mean...as in a drawing of a actuall loom or the diagram as i posted earlier?
A diagram .
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I recon that Phill at corvette connections just may have a standard loom.
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(https://s9.postimg.org/kbrczs4hb/20180402_192704.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/m3kbuonu3/) This is what i have. Made it with photocopies out of my assembly manual
I recon that Phill at corvette connections just may have a standard loom.
And no he dosen't have one. Already asked him.
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Try George
I’ll pm you his number
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This is the rear of my instrument panel LSD`s fitted and wiring loom changed to facilitate easier instantiation
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Thanks for the picture! :drunk: That somewhat helps to get the gist of how it should be back there. :cheers:
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This is not stock , just my idea on how to make it a little better , when it come to refitting the dash panel
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here is a US thread that may be of some assistance
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-tech-performance/4121187-70-radio-capacitor-wiring.html#post1596929506
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Check this out
http://docrebuild.com/oosoez.html
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Thanks for all the info it has been a big help. The loom is coming along nicely and it is starting to resemble a proper wiring loom. I have tested most of the connections and they all seem to function properly, just need to finish the testing and wrap it up for install. Still need some of the plugs that were missing and melted.
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most of the generic plugs etc should be available fro Ashdowns
http://www.ashdown-ingram.com.au/
I have part of a WB loom if that's any help
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https://www.lectriclimited.com/vehiclesearch/result/index/year/111/make/21/model/65
This company get a good wrap for quality , worth a look
Bfit
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https://www.lectriclimited.com/vehiclesearch/result/index/year/111/make/21/model/65
This company get a good wrap for quality , worth a look
Bfit
Yes I've seen this but by the time it gets here landed it will cost a bit and take forever.
Went into Rare Spares yesterday at Prospect had a bit of a look. found some plugs and terminals that are the same. Also ordered some pins from Fleabay, for the plug that plugs the rear loom. Some of mine are broken and a couple of wires that should be in the plug are not. All here in OZ.
Now i think the only plugs that I need are the fan blower relay and the plug behind it. and only because they are partly melted. After that all should be ok ready to tape up. Even found the non adhesive electrical tape like factory. I have been on the net relentlessly looking for this stuff. Can't believe you can't buy it here but you can. You just need to look for it.
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Do u have a photo of the plug you need
Bfit
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Fan relay has 2 plugs ?
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Fan relay has 2 plugs ?
That's correct! One single plug and one three pronged plug. :yes:
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Anybody know where I can get Doug's side exhaust and headers here in Australia? If I am going to spend money on the exhaust I'm going the side pipe route. The headers I originally had on my car won't fit with the Borgasen box. They are more suited to rhd car. Didn't think the box was going to make that much diffrence on the left of the car.
I would consider a s/h set of lhd headers at the right money if any body has anything stashed in their shed that they may want to get rid of
Eg: Hookers etc
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remind me is this BB or SB
Bfit
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remind me is this BB or SB
Bfit
Small Block. AFR angle plug heads
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No SB headers
Did you offset the engine back to the RH side 1 1/4"
Bfit
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No SB headers
Did you offset the engine back to the RH side 1 1/4"
Bfit
The engine bay is bone stock and has never been tampered with in that respect The Borgasen box is larger than the factory box.
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I have the Borgeson box with B.B. and headers, it’s snug but has clearance.
I wouldn’t have thought the SB would have any problems. Can you post a photo
Bfit
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I have the Borgeson box with B.B. and headers, it’s snug but has clearance.
I wouldn’t have thought the SB would have any problems. Can you post a photo
Bfit
These are Hurricane headers designed for rhd c3 vettes.
The problem is the center two pipes drop down into a collector with plenty of room but the outside two pipes drop into another collector next to the other making them too wide...about 15cm too wide. The right hand side fits no problem.
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[imghttp://(https://preview.ibb.co/gTOzm8/20170222_231339.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mUJX68)/img]This may explain it :banghead:
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I think kooks headers will work best only a guess though.
Bfit
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[/quote]
I think kooks headers will work best only a guess though.
Bfit
Never heard of them untill today. Did a bit of homework and they look like a quality item.
Thing is though for that kind of money I would prefer a set of side pipes even if it is a little more.
If I found a s/h header for the right dollars I would stick with the under car exhaust.