NSW Corvettes
Restoration & Modification Projects => Modification Projects => Topic started by: Scott on January 07, 2009, 03:15:56 PM
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It's taken a wile, but finally I took some pics of the car. I started a while ago.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette003.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette001.jpg)
Engine is a 400 small block backed up with a T400 auto.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/PICT0406.jpg)
I had to fix one of the rear control arms. One thing lead to another and next thing the whole rear end was off.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/PICT0404.jpg)
The whole underbody, including the chassis was coated with some sort of sound deadening. This was find for the body, but trapped water and lead to surface rust on the chassis, so the whole lot was cleaned up and fish oiled, undercoated and painted.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/PICT0398.jpg)
Also the gearbox x-member was pretty badly bent, so I fixed that up and gave it a coat of paint also.
Along the way I have accumulated a few parts, including a glass rear spring and a new set of control arms.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/PICT0408.jpg)
I have just cleaned up and painted the diff and support member so hopefully they will be back in place soon.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/PICT0396.jpg)
I love the red 'Limited slip diff oil only' tag
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/PICT0409.jpg)
Gotta love milk crates :)
After that there are a whole lot of new parts, bushes, bearings and pieces to be installed. I'll keep this updated from now on.;-)
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cool,what area are you from:xkeep the progress pics comeing;42
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Nice project
mate do yourself a favour and get some car stands,your makin me nervous
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If that was mine those wheels would be gone even before I got the car running!
Looks good, the front clip looks a little bit strange on a 73 but you get used to it pretty quick.
I'd also recommend the small investment in a decent set of jack stands. That wood stack just looks like a serious accident in the making. I bought my stands from an engineer supply place for only $50 a pair. Same price as the thin pieces of sh#t you get from Autobarn, but they are industrial quality. It's worth shopping round.
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More progress today. I bolted the diff to the x-member and added some fresh oil.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/PICT0410.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/PICT0412.jpg)
Still got the little red tag ;-)
Using a trolley jack, the whole thing was carefully moved into place, jacked up, with the tailshaft slotted into place and the x-member bolted up.
Then the front diff mount was bolted on with a new poly mount.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/PICT0415.jpg)
I thought I'd gotten stuck putting in the bolt for the front diff mount but I could just get it in by lifting up the front of the diff.
I'm on the Gold Coast but don't expect to see the car on the road just yet :)
Edited 24/05/09 2.01pm Admin
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Those are camaro wheels. The rears are the wrong offset and needed spacers to fit. The spacers on the car when I got it were multifit and had bent the wheel studs and snapped one. they will be changed.
As for 'stands' they are very stable. The blocks are 250 wide hardwood, so just as much base area as proper stands. I did a lot of pushing and shaking of the car to check them out. They are stable and the car has been sitting on them for over a year (which is part of the problem). The car isn't going anywhere.
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i like the 80 nose on a 73.... mate has one just like it in red....
have to agree with the camaro rims though.... if it were mine i would lose them quick smart, they a nice rim ON CAMAROS, but dont suit the vette.
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(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vettemay2009002s.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vettemay2009005s.jpg)
I've been trying to get the seatbelts sorted today. I sent an email off to Hemco, so hopefully I'll have the new belts soon.
I've also been cleaning up a few more parts.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vettemay2009007s.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vettemay2009009s.jpg)
Stub axles with new studs and a coat of paint.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vettemay2009008s.jpg)
Next step is getting the new bearings and what not installed on the stub axles and bolting the rear end back together.
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All looking pretty good.
I should get my lazy butt out the shed today and get some work done too! You're making me look bad!
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Time for a new update. Last night I had the awesome job of re-installing the handbrake shoes. Talk about a nightmare. Using the dental floss trick, I finally managed to get one side done. I'm really not looking forward to doing the other side. I have also cleaned up and lubricated the handbrake cables and put them back in. I will have to re-bend the sheathes since my new trailing arms have relocated mounds for the handbrake cables.
I have a few pics on my phone with the trailing arms and half shafts installed, but I can't post them at work since most imaging websites are blocked. I discovered that I have HD diff yokes from a bigblock, so the halfshaft u-bolts I bought are useless. I also discovered that someone has replaced the rear camber arms with late 70's ones. These have a larger bushing, so the ones I have are useless also. I decided to wait a little before I buy them from the states to see if there are any other bits I need. I have decided to get a set of billies to replace my shocks as well :22
I have had the seatbelts sitting there a while too waiting to be bolted in. Just need the time to play with it. At least bits are going back onto the car now, after a long time of only taking parts off.
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Please get rid of those spacers and the wheels! they can be dangerous. Thats probably why the wheel stud snapped, they put a lot of extra pressure on the studs! you've put a set of offset trail arms on so get some wider Rallye's! It will look very cool then:x
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Don't worry, those spacers won't be going anywhere near my new wheel studs. They are a horrible design that will always bend the studs. No idea why anyone would buy them.
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I finally got around to updating this thread. Progress is still happening. I have the rear going back together slowly, with a few hiccups along the way.
I received a new stash of parts from VBandP. They sent me a few parts I didn't ask for and billed me for them. When I pointed this out, they decided return postage wasn't worth it, so they told me to keep them and re-imbursed me for the price of the parts. Top service.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/small5.jpg)
New Trailing arms in place.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/small2.jpg)
A few pics of the rear end back together.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/small3.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/small1.jpg)
And my Brakes eady to go back together. I have been waiting on an o-ring for where the halves join. I didn't think it would be that difficult.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/small4.jpg)
I just pulled out the glass rear spring for a trial fit. It didn't go well... I now need to do a little research to find out what the hell is going on.
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Great photos.
Good luck with the spring.
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And my Brakes eady to go back together. I have been waiting on an o-ring for where the halves join. I didn't think it would be that difficult.
I have a few laying around - send me a PM if you get desperate.
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Thanks, but I have the o-rings now.
Also, it seems that my rear diff cover is off a 77-79 movel vette. It only has 7/16 inch bolts whereas the earlier cover uses 9/16 bolts. The later spring is also a little wider, so now I either need to get some shims to make it fit, or get the correct spring. If I do get another spring, I might try get a shorter one to compliment my offset Trailing arms...
Anyone want to buy a brand new VBandP 360# (big block spec) composite spring?
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Hi Scott
I may be interested in your spring, you can call me on 0246770676.
Cheers, Bob.
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You have U2U in regards to the spring
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im really interested in ur spring as im currently doing my whole undercarriage and im looking at getting a composite spring can u give me a call 0407509988 or send me ur number and ill call u thanks mate
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Looks like auction time for the spring:smirk:
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Whoa. Bit of interest it seems. I might look into a replacement. I'll let you all know when I decide what I'm doing.
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Ahh, looks like my post disappeared.
I got a response from the tech guy at VBandP. Their springs are the same from 69 to 81, so if I get the right bolts and bottom plate, it'll be fine. No shims needed as there is no twisting load on the spring, only up and down forces.
For future reference, they get their spring blanks, cut them to length and fit the end caps, so if you do want a slightly shorter spring it's no problem. They even keep a few in stock as they are rather popular. The standard width they make is slightly shorter than the stock 9-leaf spring.
So sorry guys, but the spring is no longer for sale.
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Good new for you - the rest of us will just have to sulk for a while!
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I'm sulking a little too, as now I have to wait another week until I can get my car back on it's wheels. I was so close :shake:
I ordered the parts this morning, so I'll see them next week some time I guess.
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I ordered the parts this morning, so I'll see them next week some time I guess.
Next Week??? Pretty much every USA Vendor I've purchased parts from takes a month minimum.
Are you saying VBP only take a week - I am impressed!
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VB&P had my full suspension kit and other parts at my door in 8 days[and i'm in the sticks]:grin:
the 20% off covered the freight
http://www.vbandp.com/
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I bought my shocks and a few little bits just recently. They were in the country in a few days and delivered to my house in under a week and a half. Same for the other stuff I have bought from them.
Corvette Central is the worst I've come across. Twice I've ordered stuff only to get an email back saying there is a 4-5 week wait on 1 part. They don't have some parts in stock. They can't pack stuff either, so shipping gets expensive.
I highly recommend VBandP. It's a shame they only do brakes and suspension.
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I had a package in the mail this morning.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/small6.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/small7.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/small8.jpg)
I now have a rear spring, and my rear brake calipers back on. I have decided I'll need a heat shield to protect the spring from the exhaust heat, so I'll have to get hold of some sheet metal and whip something up. That means pulling the spring off again when I install the heat shield so I'll leave the suspension bolts out for now.
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I was searching through the back-up drive the other day and I came across a couple of pics taken the day I got the car. It's at the servo right near the docks in Brisbane.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/newvette1.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/newvette2.jpg)
This is what it looks like now. Today I finally got the car back sitting on it's wheels after what was probably 2 years.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/sml1.jpg)
It's been a long time coming. I picked up a set of cheap rims a week ago, and got some tyres on there this morning. So now I'll be able to roll it outside and give is a clean, once my old man gets his car out of the way anyway.
I have also been fighting the engine mounts for the last week. I finally got them in, so I can bolt the headers up next.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/sml3.jpg)
For the past 2 months though, I have been cleaning up the seat shells.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/sml4.jpg)
After a lot of thinners, most of the red and white paint that was thickly applied is now gone. I'll have to clean my soaking container and go over all the pieces again to remove the left over splashes and what-not, then give them a coat of paint. I'll have to clean up the other seat pieces and rails, then I can bolt everything back in and make it look like a useable car again.
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You're WAY ahead of me!!!
Good luck and keep the pics/progress coming!
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Yesterday I put the fuel pump back in, only to find that the bolt through the engine mount was too long, causing it to hit the fuel pump. So I pulled the bolt out and cut 10mm off it. I had a die wound onto the bolt so after making the cut, I just wound the die off and the threads were ready to go.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/sml6.jpg)
Now there is plenty of clearance.
The other job done was installing the ceramic coated headers.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/sml5.jpg)
The first side went on fine. The second side was a bit of a pain. I had to remove the oil dipstick and tube to get the header in place, then knock it back in when I was finished.
The new pipes look much better than the old ones, and as a bonus, they don't hit the firewall :hammer: unlike the ones that were on there...
I'll have to try modify the exhaust a little to fit the new headers now. And replace the cut fuel lines.
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Well, once again I have bought a batch of parts, and once again, I couldn't help myself. I now have new tierods and tubes, ball joints, lower arm bushes, a few other bits, and a set of tubular control arms! These have 5 degrees of castor ove the std 3 degrees. VBandP had their february sale, and since the top arms have new bushes and ball joints, I got them to leave out the duplicate items from the front end rebuild kit. All in all, it came out at a very decent price.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/27022010112.jpg)
Last night I set the car up and removed the wheels. Tonight the fun started. First step, caliper and rotor off. I also dropped the shock out.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/03032010113.jpg)
Next I spent the best part of an hour trying to get the tie-rod off. Using a separator (that I bought on the way home this afternoon), a hammer, the oxy, a bigger hammer and it didn't budge, so I gave up on it for now and moved onto the upper ball joint. A few easy hits of the hammer on the separator and the ball joint popped off. I think removing the split pin took the most time.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/03032010114.jpg)
Then I removed the top arm, making sure i taped the alignment shims together and labeled them.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/03032010115.jpg)
and Lastly, I wrestled the spring out. It is almost impossible to get the spring compressors in there, but eventually I got them on the spring just enough to get the spring out. Luckily it's completely un-compressed once the lower arm is dropped.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/03032010116.jpg)
So that'll keep me busy for a while, especially since I'll have to clean up and paint the chassis as I go along :shake: I just can't help myself.
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So that'll keep me busy for a while, especially since I'll have to clean up and paint the chassis as I go along :shake: I just can't help myself.
Thats one thing that bugs me about mine - when I rebuilt the front end I wasn't planning on going into as much detail as I am now so I never cleaned it right up, I just rebuilt it.
I'm half minded about pulling it all apart and doing it again but thats a lot of work to do twice. You may as well do it while it's all out.
Seeing those new bolt on A arms - that'd save a lot of work!
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I'm suprised you have left your car body on the chassis, considering how much work you are doing on it. Sometimes I think it may have been easier doing half the things I have done without the body on there.
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I'm suprised you have left your car body on the chassis, considering how much work you are doing on it. Sometimes I think it may have been easier doing half the things I have done without the body on there.
Like I said before - I never planned on the car needing that much detail.
BUT - like you said - rebuilding the rear end would have been soooo much better with the body off. The front end a bit easier also.
Hind sight is a wonderful thing.
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Hi Scott
What brand were your coated headers.
I am looking at some Hooker ones at present and want to be sure they fit well with no clearance issues.
Regards
Craig
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Hey Craig,
They are Patriot tight tuck headers. They are the shorty type ones. I chose these because I'll be able to hook them up to sidepipes in the future if I feel the need :drool: I had some factory chev manifolds on there before, but they were the wrong type and hit on the floor. These ones will require the re-routing of the auto cooler pipes and the earth strap from the starter, but that's about it. Them clear everything else fine. I started a thread on the corvetteforum.com site about fittment befire I purchased as I wanted to make sure they would fot fine. Unfortunately, purchasing from the US was significantly cheaper than buying from here.
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I finally have gotten around to an update. The front end rebuild is coming along nicely with only a few hiccups. I left the last update pulling the front end apart. Fun and games.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/10032010126.jpg)
Last bits off.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/10032010129.jpg)
Time to start cleaning up. Every thing was de-greased and hit with the pressure cleaner, then the wire brush on the bench grinder and angle grinders. Finally, a nice coat of cheap enamel, applied in my 'state-of-the-art' spray booth.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/14032010130.jpg)
The lower arms were a little more difficult. Took a bit to get the bushes and cups out. A little fire did the trick though :drink:
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/14032010131.jpg)
Then, new grease and bolt all the pieces back together.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/14032010132.jpg)
Rebuilding the lower arms wasn't too bad.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/31052010146.jpg)
The first one went together fairly easily. Getting the new bush cups in was a bit of a hassle, but I got there.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/31052010147.jpg)
The tubes that go inside the bushes are too long, so had to be cut down by about 3-4mm each to give just the right fit. That took a while but I got there.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/31052010148.jpg)
When it came to the second arm, experience meant the cups went in much easier and faster. So fast in fact that I forgot to put the rod in... :mmm:
So I had to bash one of the cups back out, put the rod in and then bash the cup back in. That was not fun.
More to come. I have a cricket game to go to :)
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I was still struggling to get the steering rack off, so I bought a 2nd, different tie-rod splitter.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/11062010155.jpg)
The one on the left here uses leverage and a bolt to pop the ball joint and tie-rods. It took me about 30 seconds to pop the steering off. :grr: I wish I had bought this one in the first place.
Next was the actual chassis.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/11062010157.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/11062010156.jpg)
I wasn't looking forward to this. Using a bright light and a blunt 25mm chisel, I scraped most of the major chunks of body deadner and crud off.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/31052010149.jpg)
Then spent a fair while lying under the car with the angle grinder with a wire brush attachment again. There are some awkward places to get to, but after a few long hours, it was looking much better.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/09062010152.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/09062010151.jpg)
After getting both sides fairly clean back o the body mounts, and welding up a crack in one ot the outriggers that holds the engine, I spent more quality time lying on my back under the car with a paint brush and the fish-oil.
Then last weekend, more quality time with the paint brush and the undercoat (2 coats). Finally on tuesday I managed more quality time with the paint brush and the black top coat. I managed to paint one side with a single coat, so there are still a few more stints under there.
But after paint comes re-assemble :grin:
I don't seem to have any pics of the painted seat shells, or the chassis for some reason. I'll have to try grab some next time I get to the shed.
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The Joy of cleaning & replacing parts:thud:. Keep the pic's & updates coming Scott :ado:
The way you have the car chocked up with timber is a bit of a worry though.
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The way you have the car chocked up with timber is a bit of a worry though.
Yeah! Scares the sh#t outta me every time I see that in a pic!
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coming along very nicely.... im with the others though... all the money spent so far, why not lashout and buy some car stands.......people squashed dont build cars real well.
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There are a pair of axle stands under the chassis rails near the A pillar holding up the car. The stack of hardwood blocks was just to take some of the load as the front of the car, including the engine is all cantilevered in front of the axle stands. Each measure can support the car on it's own, but I have put both in there for added sturdiness.
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I guess it's time for another update. The chassis was cleaned up, painted and had the shiny control arms, billies, new ball joint, new tierods and uprated front springs added.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/28062010198.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/28062010197.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/28062010195.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/12102010269.jpg)
The seat shells were cleaned up and painted a while ago.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/28062010196.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/28062010194.jpg)
I has the cushions re-trimmed as well and they came out really nice, unlike this photo...
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/29092010257.jpg)
Today I made a trip to the wreckers and picked up this.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/12102010270.jpg)
Falcon thermo fans, well known for their ability to flow bulk air. Also featuring a built in shroud for added effectiveness.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/12102010274.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/12102010272.jpg)
By pure luck, these things are the perfect size for a corvette radiator, both in width and height. The edges of the plastic shroud just hang over the edge of the finned area like they were made for it. The shroud hits on the inlet and outlet pipes a little, but that can be trimmed easily enough and I'll add some brackets to mount the fans to the radiator nice and firmly.
I'll have to work out some wiring for the thermo fans, but tridon make temperature switches that will bolt into the water jacket of the intake manifold, right near the main water outlet, so hopefully that should all work out well.
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I am soooo glad that I've finished underneath - although if I was to do it again I'd sandblast everything and paint it up nice before all the new parts went in.
Looks like you've been damn pretty busy. Unless people have done this work they cannot begin to appreciate how much work is involved!!!
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What model Falcon were the thermo fans from ?
Do they clear the sway bar ok.
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I now realise why people go to the trouble of doing a 'body off' restoration. That body only gets in the way :ral:
I was so glad to get it back sitting on it's own wheels.
I just realised I haven't put my sway bar back on, although I can't imagine the fans hitting. The original shroud runs back horizontal from the radiator. The fans don't hang any lower, so they should be fine.
The fans are from an EL I believe. The newer ones (AU, BA etc) flow a little more air, but may have a slightly different shroud size. The fans are no different for the 6 cyl or V8 falcons. Cost was $75 from the wreckers.
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It has been a while since updates. Things have gone good. Things have gone bad.
I spent a fair amount of time removing bits and cutting down my thermo fans to fit. I also made up a whole lot of little aluminum brackets to mount the fans to the radiator.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/02112010303.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/02112010302.jpg)
Coupled with a heat of stainless nuts and bolts and a little loctite, everything was bolted up nice and securely.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/27112010306.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/27112010305.jpg)
I went to mount the radiator just the other night, only to discover that the fans hit on the upper control arms :tear: I have figured out that if I remove the fans, and unbolt the radiator frame, I should be able to bolt everything back up in place and trim the fan shrouds a little to clear the arms. Still, it was annoying.
I also decided that I didn't like the large truck pulley on the front of my 400 small block.
Since I was replacing that, I figured the balancer should be replaced too, etc, etc...
I bought a power bond balancer from VPW in victoria and some new alloy pulleys and pulley dress-up bits from Jegs.
Time to ship Balancer from Vic: 4 days.
Time to ship parts from the US: 4 days.
Yes, I ordered on thursday and recieved the parts the next week. Impressive.
Jegs also like to throw in a free hat :)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/09112010304.jpg)
Once I had the Balancer off, I decided that I may as well check the timing chain and clean up the cover. This meant the sump had to come off too. Pretty soon, the engine looked like this:
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/24122010314.jpg)
More to come.
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Hi Scott, can I offer some advice on the engine. I speak from experience, I've learnt the hard way.
Make sure you put a bolt in the hole marked A below. In some blocks, and I'm not sure if applies to all, this hole is drilled through to the fuel pump cavity, If you don't plug it, you might have an oil leak thats hard to find.
If you're going to install a double row timing chain, you may have to grind down the part of the block shown at B 'cause the chain might rub on it.
Cheers Bob
PS, sorry I distorted the picture of your engine, it looks more like a big block now.
[img=750x563]http://i343.photobucket.com/albums/o477/Reklaw327/ReplytoScott.jpg[/img]
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I don't think there was anything in bolt hole A previously. I'll have another look for signs of fluid.
On pulling the timing cover (which meant also pulling the sump) I discovered the timing chain was very stretched and loose, also the plastic teeth on the cam gear were cracked in many places and badly worn.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/24122010313.jpg)
So I sourced a Rollmaster double row timing chain at a good price.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/28122010324.jpg)
Much better than the old one. I also got a felpro 1 piece sump gasket to help eliminate future leaks.
I had troubles getting the crank gear on. I bunged it in the oven for a while on the max temp to expand it a little, but still have to give it many taps with the brass hammer to get it into place.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/28122010325.jpg)
I also spent some time cleaning up the timing cover and sump to make them semi-presentable.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/30112010309.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/30112010307.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/30112010308.jpg)
One thing that impressed me was the plastic plugs that came with the one piece gasket. The were 4 plugs about 2 inches long that screwed into the engine block. The have a little jag on them, so you slide the gasket over them and they hold it in place. Then slide the sump over as well and it holds everything in place while you start putting the bolts in.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/30122010326.jpg)
This made it so easy to install the sump and gasket by myself without anything sliding out of allignment.
Next the fun task of installing the powerbond balancer. Much cranking to pull it into place. Then the water pump, alloy pulleys and the snout covers, as well as a new pulley and cover for the alternator.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/31122010328.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/31122010330.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/31122010331.jpg)
All up, the engine was looking much better than before.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/31122010332.jpg)
The radiator will be tomorrows job. Then I have to get the lights sorted out for yellow indicators etc. Always something...
At least it keeps me from the couch in front of the telly.
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After what seemed like ages, I finally got my radiator in last night. All my comments on how well the thermo fans fitted to the radiator came back to bite me... As the thermo fans sit off the radiator a little, it turns out that they fouled on the top suspension arms.
On the right side, a little extra trimming of the shroud had everything fitting up fine. On the left, a bit of agressive trimming and it was all sorted, kind of. I had to unbolt the control arm to get the radiator and thermo fans in, and then bolt the two back together again. Only problem was the left side fan still hit on the control arm. So, I modified stuff to make it fit.
First thing I did was reverse the mounting rubbers to bring the radiator around 20mm closer to the frame. Then, I fabricated up some new top brackets to pull the top of the radiator even closer to the mounting frame.
I cut up some SHS which just so happened to match the top of the radiator perfectly, with a few bits of rubber to cushion the vibrations.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/11022011368.jpg)
Then something to bolt to the frame.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/11022011370.jpg)
Making up the wedges in between took a while. Cardboard templated definitely helped.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/12022011371.jpg)
Then I welded it all up (somewhat badly) and painted it black.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/15022011373.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/15022011372.jpg)
Now the radiator fans clear everything. I guess it's time to tackle the tail lights, that I'm still putting off.
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I needed to convert my tail lights to amber indicators due to it's age. After studying the wiring diagram, I decided it was all to difficult. The indicator and brake lights share a wire and I couldn't work out where they join. So I just cut the brake wire at the switch on the brake pedal and ran a new brake light wire from the pedal to the rear of the car. It was pretty simple, I just followed the existing wiring harness and added the new wire.
I used the test light to work out which wire was which. Then I cut the indicator and reverse light wires. I connected the indicators to the reverse lights and installed amber globes. I then wired in my new brake light wire and I had all my tail lights working, bar the reversing lights. I had an idea for that though. LEDs.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/02032011377.jpg)
And I know where I wanted to install it.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/02032011376.jpg)
The next scary part was cutting into the body.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/02032011375.jpg)
Once I has everything located, I needed a good way to mount everything and finish it off, so I started with a lump of aluminium.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/08032011382.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/08032011383.jpg)
and eventually got everything looking neat.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/13032011390.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/13032011391.jpg)
Once it was all in place, I was pretty happy with it.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/13032011388.jpg)
It's mounted low enough that it's not hidden in the recess too much and will provide ample light when reversing. My landy only has a single reversing light, and it's much newer so there shouldn't be any problems with just a single light either.
The other compliance issue was the rhs rear view mirror. I purchased one a fair while back, but never got around to fitting it. It came with a very hande template sticker.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/19032011392.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/19032011396.jpg)
It was very easy to install, but I just realised I have no finished pictures.
I'm still playing around with the front parker lights. They are mostly sorted bar some wiring but I've been waiting until I install the gearbox as I may need to pull some of the dash apart.
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MMM spacers
RTA would go off if you have spacers behind a wheel
yet a LC/LJ Torana came from the factory with them fitted
But the stand ?
not for me
If you have to build you own
build what is called a pig sty with timber
uses a lot more wood but will not fall on you
when you are doing something up really tight
Bfit
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Hi Scott
with your fans fill in all the cutouts around the edges so fans have to work to pull air through radiator they wont work real efficient with that large hole on top r/hand side. Use some black colourbond steel & pop rivetts. Thermostat should be located in bottom radiator hose or waterpump not in top hose water at top is always hot, water at bottom has a bigger temp variation
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Yes, I still have to block off all the extra gaps with the fans. I also have been to clark rubber and got some stuff to try fill in the gaps around the radiator so the air from the front can't bypass while I'm driving.
The plan is to fit an electric switch where the temp sender goes in the block or manifold. I'm not a fan of the ones that go in or are taped onto the radiator hose. I'll just have to make sure it's matched to the water thermostat temp so they don't fight I haven't started the wiring on the thermos yet. It's on the (long) to-do list.
I really should be in the shed tonight, not sitting here on my butt :D
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Scott
Water temp control theoretically should be based on water temp flowing in to the radiator
If you want to maintain 82 deg C for instance
If the radiator had a differential across the core of 12 deg C water would be returning to the engine at 70 deg C theoretically
Most engine set up in moderate climate conditions should run in ambient temperatures to 42 / 45 deg c if designed correctly
Now a larger capacity 4 to 5 core double pass radiator with the same frontal area as original radiator core could have a differential across the radiator of 25 / 35 deg c
So what I am getting to is, the control point for the fans should be as close to the regulator housing as possible.
As the regulator controls the mix or water out of the engine to the radiator with the in supply to maintain temp. Using the by pass system which most believe is only there to help in quick warm up on the engine at start up.
YOU will notice a lot of modern vehicle fans run on when the engine is turned off.
This can help prevent with flash boiling
As the water will still tend to flow due to convection.
You also can up the radiator pressure this will also help with flash boiling
The boiling point will increase under pressure
You can get a good air flow meter at dick smiths. There not to dear and you can measure the air flow across your radiator core to abstain exactly what is happening.
I n my field ( Diesel ) you would normally expect 10 to 13 cu meters / min
Is this helpful or confusing
Bfit
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Not confusing at all.
My inlet manifold has some plugs right near the thermostat housing. I was intending to use one of these for the temp switch. Tridon Thermo fan Switches (http://www.tridon.com.au/Products/Product.aspx?SG=8&S=35&G=483&P=2014)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/31122010330.jpg)
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Scott
Mite I suggest a manual over ride switch.
If things start to get hot or the ambient temp is a little high you can turn them on .
Bfit
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I had already planned to do that. Little safe guards like that come in handy, plus it's a pretty simple thing to do.
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I have the same fans & built my own control I used a sender out of a magna.I also have a secondary sender with an audible alarm which is about 5 degrees higher than fan sender if for any reason fans fail ie sieze, jam, blow fuse, audible piezio alarm comes on I can drive for about a 1k before engine gets up to near boiling, saves having to watch temp guage all the time.
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Last week, I started removing the interior. I figured it would make installing an extra pedal easier. As it turns out, removing the interiov is extremely easy.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/02062011430.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/02062011432.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/02062011434.jpg)
On the weekend, I decided I should pull all the carpets out too, so now I have a very bare interior. The reasoning behind this was 1) to help remove some of the extra wiring in my car and 2) to fix my floor where it's broken.
Whoever installed the 80's front end and dash into my car, also installed the wiring harness fro the donor car. The problem is that they left the original wiring harness in the car as well. :hammer: I was always wondering why I had so many plugs that didn't connect to anything :)
Also at some stage (possibly when the car was shipped over) both the footwells have been pushed up. The joints between the panels have separated, and some of the panels are cracked so there will be some fibreglassing and bonding in the future.
After marking all the wires I need to keep, I have removed a decent amount of spares, but the ones that run over the steering column are a problem. So tonights job will be to remove the steering column. Apparently not a hard task.
While everything is apart, if anyone wants/needs pics of anything behind the dash, let me know. (the wiper thread made me thing of this)
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It's been a while and I haven't got as much done on the vette as I'd like to have. I was interupted by sickness, marriage, setting up a house and importing and complying a mustang. Finally I have had some quality time with the vette.
A while back I stripped the whole interior. I cleaned the surface rust off what I could see of the birdcage and gave it all aa nice coat of satin black.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/02062011433.jpg)
I have also been stripping all the body deadening crud out of the interior. Fun job. I usually use a wire brush in the angle grinder, but I thought I'd try one of those strip-it discs that are like a tough scourer. They work well, but wear down really quick and are rather expensive. One disk did about 80% of the metal panel behind the seats. I bought a brass wire brush to finish it up. Not as effective, but lasts much longer.
Once again a nice coat of satin black to keep the corrosion away.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/08122011285.jpg)
Then set out with the inch wide paint scraper getting all the crud off the floor. Since it's glass, I have to do it by hand. The plan is to get most of it with the scraper, then clean up the remainder with a plastic scourer and some thinners.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/08122011286.jpg)
That icecream bucket filled up real quick and I'm barely started.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/08122011290.jpg)
Keeps me off the couch anyway :grin:
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Long time, no update. I've been busy, but have managed some time to scrape more crud off my car.
After much cleaning time, it became glueing time. I bought a 2 part epoxy glue and set about glueing the seams in the floor back together. They had popped, I assume when the forklift gave it a nudge at some stage during shipping. I'll have to do some glass patches where the fibreglass has been broken, but that will be at a later date.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/14032012317.jpg)
All snotted up.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/14032012318.jpg)
My elaborate wood prop arrangement holding everything in place.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/14032012319.jpg)
I also started cleaning up the floot on the other side.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/17032012322.jpg)
I had to do this anyway, but it's not a fun job, so it gets put off.
Here you can see a few cracks in teh glass panel as well as a nother popped seam. Once it's all clean (inside and outside) I can glue this side up.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/17032012323.jpg)
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I moved house back in April. Ever since then, the vette has still been in my fathers shed and I haven't had a chance to touch the thing. I've been waiting until I got teh garage floor done before I moved it over, as once the car was in there it'd be hard to move the car and leave it outside for a week or so while the floor was done.
Finally over the last week or so, stuff has been happening. I had a mate of mine who does concrete grinding and polishing come around and sort the floor out for me. It's an epoxy floor with a metallic pearlescence additive. It's not finished yet as it needs a final coat of polyurethane stuff over the top to protect the colour coat.
I have to say, I'm pretty impressed with how it came up. The only problem is that now I'll have to put a lot more effort into the rest of the shed now and paint the walls and shelves when they go up.
Plus now I'll finally be able to bring the vette.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/Shed/Floor001_1555x1037.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/Shed/Floor002_1555x1037.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/Shed/Floor042_1555x1037.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/Shed/Floor003_1555x1037.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/Shed/Floor004_1555x1037.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/Shed/Floor005_1555x1037.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/Shed/Floor008_1555x1037.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/Shed/Floor010_1555x1037.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/Shed/Floor011_1555x1037.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/Shed/Floor014_1555x1037.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/Shed/Floor015_1555x1037.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/Shed/Floor016_1555x1037.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/Shed/Floor017_1555x1037.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/Shed/Floor024_1555x1037.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/Shed/Floor031_1555x1037.jpg)
I'm really excited about how it came out.
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Wow thats an amazing floor Scott.
Would almost be worried your cars are going to sink when you drive on it :-)
Craig
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WOW what a floor!!! Now I want one!
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Just had a chat to my mate, and he's keen to pump out a few of these floors at $80/sqm +GST. The floor is useable after a week or so but the top protective coat takes around 2 months to get to full strength. He's working on a way to speed that up a little. This price is if you can wait until he can fit it in as a side job. He's on the Gold coast, but will cover Brissy as well.
I've had the mustang and the defender parked in there since a week after the floor was done and with no issues. Still haven't organised to get the vette moved over yet :tear:
Here are some pics of the final product, complete with cars and dust.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/Shed/Floor064_1555x1037.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/Shed/Floor061_1555x1037.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/Shed/Floor057_1555x1037.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/Shed/Floor054_1555x1037.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/Shed/Floor050_1555x1037.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/Shed/Floor067_1555x1037.jpg)
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I wish he was around a few years back when I had my garage built, now i got way to much crap in there to move it all!
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After a lot of things happening, including becoming a father, I've finally managed to spend some time on this thing. First step was hiring a trailer and relocating it from my fathers shed to my shed. Luckily I have a heavy duty tow vehicle.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2013-08-31-360_zps34e7a8b2.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/S_c_o_t_t_W/media/vette/2013-08-31-360_zps34e7a8b2.jpg.html)
Now the vette is in it's new home with it's buddy, and I can just pop out and work on it whenever.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2013-08-31-364_zpsac8981c1.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/S_c_o_t_t_W/media/vette/2013-08-31-364_zpsac8981c1.jpg.html)
I've been cleaning the crud from the inside of the car in preparation for fixing the popped seam and cracked glass panels. I also decided that the interior wasn't stripped enough, so I removed what was left of the heater/aircon system which ended in me lying in a pool of coolant on the floor of the shed. Great way to spend a night.
In the end I now have the interior completely dismantled. The trans tunnel has been badly repaired at some stage, so I'll probably do something about that too, prior to installing my shiny new TKO, and then re-installing the interior. I also have a big box of dynamat that will be stuck to everything at some stage.
I'll also have to block up all the spare holes in the firewall. Vettes are notorious for getting hot in the footwell. Everyone claims it's because the exhaust runs so close, but the main cause is hot air running straight in from the engine bay.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2014-03-31-485_zpsc6656741.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/S_c_o_t_t_W/media/vette/2014-03-31-485_zpsc6656741.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2014-03-31-487_zps0b68c735.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/S_c_o_t_t_W/media/vette/2014-03-31-487_zps0b68c735.jpg.html)
The aircon set-up doesn't look too bad, but I think I'll replace the heater core while it's all apart.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2014-03-31-486_zps8e752a48.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/S_c_o_t_t_W/media/vette/2014-03-31-486_zps8e752a48.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2014-03-31-488_zps317bbd8b.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/S_c_o_t_t_W/media/vette/2014-03-31-488_zps317bbd8b.jpg.html)
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In the last pic make sure a good seal is achieved between the 2 heater pipes & the internal duct. The factory put a small strip of foam there which will have long gone this is main cause of heat coming into car. The heat comes in from void in engine bay where pipes enter into car then leaks into AC duct warming the cool air. Also hot wire fan & check for leaks around AC box in engine bay side, seal with butyl mastic
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Suprisingly enough, the strip of foam is still there. I'll make sure I reseal that when it all goes back in. It appears that the sound deadening stuff was supposed to seal the housing to the firewall from the factory.
I'm not sure what I'll do to seal it up when I put it back together, but thanks for the tip about the heat entering in through the air-con box. I want to keep as much heat out as I can.
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I've managed to get a bit done on this lately.
A few months ago I tried to align the bellhousing so that it was within the specs Tremec give.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2014-10-11-595_zps35f69974.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/S_c_o_t_t_W/media/vette/2014-10-11-595_zps35f69974.jpg.html)
The dowels didn't line up with the holes in the bellhousing by a little, so I had to give it a little persuasion with the rubber mallet. I then had to use offset dowels to centre it.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2014-10-11-596_zpsd961b130.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/S_c_o_t_t_W/media/vette/2014-10-11-596_zpsd961b130.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2014-10-11-600_zpsac7f5062.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/S_c_o_t_t_W/media/vette/2014-10-11-600_zpsac7f5062.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2014-10-11-601_zpseb468013.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/S_c_o_t_t_W/media/vette/2014-10-11-601_zpseb468013.jpg.html)
It was different every time, possible since the bellhousing would deform a little to fit the dowels. After climbing under the car 30+ times in one night to check the dial gauge, then spin the engine over a little, inbetween pulling the bellhousing, swapping ans spinning the dowels, I had enough and made a new purchase.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2014-11-12-619_zps1df5cc4f.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/S_c_o_t_t_W/media/vette/2014-11-12-619_zps1df5cc4f.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2014-11-17-623_zps9259e1a5.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/S_c_o_t_t_W/media/vette/2014-11-17-623_zps9259e1a5.jpg.html)
I was able to use the engine lift to help build the car lift. I got most of it up myself, which is no mean feat considering the weight of the parts and not wanting to stratch the floor.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2014-11-18-624_zps76b8c47b.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/S_c_o_t_t_W/media/vette/2014-11-18-624_zps76b8c47b.jpg.html)
Much easier working under it now.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2014-12-27-649_zpsc71116e5.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/S_c_o_t_t_W/media/vette/2014-12-27-649_zpsc71116e5.jpg.html)
With the car up high, I sorted the bellhousing alignment pretty quick, using one factory dowel and one 0.014' offset dowel. IT also made it heaps easier to sort out all the mounts for the trans x-member, which were a little out of place from a forklift bending the cross member during shipping...
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2014-12-27-648_zpsb5d03483.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/S_c_o_t_t_W/media/vette/2014-12-27-648_zpsb5d03483.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2014-12-27-646_zps6ef7d791.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/S_c_o_t_t_W/media/vette/2014-12-27-646_zps6ef7d791.jpg.html)
It also made it way easier to finish the fibreglass work required to patch up the floor, which had also been damaged by a forklift prong. There was also the trans tunnel patch that consisted of poorly mixed kitty hair and cardboard...
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2014-07-14-544_zps63b9ce85.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/S_c_o_t_t_W/media/vette/2014-07-14-544_zps63b9ce85.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2014-07-14-545_zpsde3af58e.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/S_c_o_t_t_W/media/vette/2014-07-14-545_zpsde3af58e.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2014-07-14-546_zpsfe80144b.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/S_c_o_t_t_W/media/vette/2014-07-14-546_zpsfe80144b.jpg.html)
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After a lot of sanding, grinding, dust and cleaning, I was able to spray the interior just to make it one colour and tidy it up a little. It also meant all the random steel panels and the birdcage were coated.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-01-04-654_zpsb61e27ef.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/S_c_o_t_t_W/media/vette/2015-01-04-654_zpsb61e27ef.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-01-04-655_zps23cf901c.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/S_c_o_t_t_W/media/vette/2015-01-04-655_zps23cf901c.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-01-04-656_zps1a12da20.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/S_c_o_t_t_W/media/vette/2015-01-04-656_zps1a12da20.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-01-05-658_zps5a378730.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/S_c_o_t_t_W/media/vette/2015-01-05-658_zps5a378730.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-01-05-660_zpsb92c16d0.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/S_c_o_t_t_W/media/vette/2015-01-05-660_zpsb92c16d0.jpg.html)
Once it all dries, I'll start bolting bits back in I guess.
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Still slowly chipping away at it. I figured I needed to put the aircon box back in first. Only issue was it looked like it had been partially buried in a bog hole for a while. There was a definite scum line on the inside.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-01-05-662_zps9d617ec3.jpg)
So I pulled it apart to clean it up.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-01-05-664_zps5cfec400.jpg)
This pic shows the high tide mark fairly well.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-01-05-666_zpsc182f5ad.jpg)
The rubber seal that keeps the hot air out when you don't want it was also borked. Of course these aren't available for purchase.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-01-05-667_zps58bdd5ba.jpg)
A bit of quality time with the spinning wire brushes on the bench grinder and drill and it was looking OK. I bought some adhesive backed foam to 'create' a new seal.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-01-20-732_zpsf89ad0d6.jpg)
The new foam seal turned out pretty good in the end. It should keep most the hot air in it's place. I'll probably add a tap to the heater line so I can switch it off for 9 months of the year.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-01-20-734_zps59d2b035.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-01-20-735_zpsc098ef6c.jpg)
Next was the task of adding an extra pedal in to the left of the brake. That one was easier than I thought it would be. Undo a clip, slip out the main pin, slip in the new pin, which haw a clutch pedal welded to it and I also got a new brake pedal as part of the kit. Cleaned every thing up with the wire brush and doused it in satin black. Done.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-01-28-746_zpse2836297.jpg)
After bolting the aircon back into place, I started with the sound deadening. I'd hears installing dynamat was time consuming. It's true. The footwells in a vette are like an abstract art piece, with angles everywhere. Plenty of cutting, bending, heating, shaping etc to get each bit in. So far after more than a week of lazy attempts, I have done one footwell. The first sheet I installed simply did not stick. I was wondering if the dynamat had gone off or something as it's been sitting on the shelf for a few years, but it turns out I just needed to add a liberal dose of heat to make the action happen.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-02-06-749_zpse0115ee6.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-02-14-754_zps8a0885d2.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-02-14-753_zps9ac2c110.jpg)
It looks like the dynamat will keep me busy for a while longer.
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I have decided I need to get the gearbox back in this thing soon, so I can use the hoist for oil changes and other useful things, rather than just 'car goes up, car goes down'.
Easy bits first. I threw the clutch on and bolted the new gearbox mount to the cross member.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-09-12-931_zpsjj45d8cp.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/S_c_o_t_t_W/media/vette/2015-09-12-931_zpsjj45d8cp.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-09-12-930_zpscybobkhf.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/S_c_o_t_t_W/media/vette/2015-09-12-930_zpscybobkhf.jpg.html)
I bought some hydraulic oil and topped up the trans hoist I bought cheap on gumtree, then manhandled the box up. Then threw on the hydraulic throwout bearing, and the stud that locates it.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-09-12-932_zpspfx4jhh1.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/S_c_o_t_t_W/media/vette/2015-09-12-932_zpspfx4jhh1.jpg.html)
Bolted the bellhousing onto the block to do some measuring.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-09-12-934_zpsn1vd9ttk.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/S_c_o_t_t_W/media/vette/2015-09-12-934_zpsn1vd9ttk.jpg.html)
According to the instructions for the hydraulic throwout bearing, I need 150-200 thou clearance between the bearing face and the clutch fingers. It also stated that chev bellhousings are shallow, so you may not have that much. Sure enough I measure it all up and I have around 20 thou clearance.
Apparently It's OK to space the bellhousing out a little from the block using washers.... No thanks. Or I can buy a 250 thou spacer from the supplier and then shim the throwout bearing up to the correct clearance. It's from a US company, so wouldn't be a fast turnaround time, of cheap. I figured I'd have to make my own up instead.
Of course no decent aluminium place is open on a saturday arvo, so I went to masters/bunnings for a look. Sure enough, masters sell sheets of 3mm plate aluminium.
3mm is around 120 thou, which gets me pretty close. The instructions say 100 thou is still OK, so 140 though should be fine. Plus there's more spiggot engagement that if I used a thicker spacer, which I like the idea of.
I've gotten as far as marking the plate up with a scribe and hopefully I get some time tonight to cut something out.
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According to the instructions for the hydraulic throwout bearing, I need 150-200 thou clearance between the bearing face and the clutch fingers. It also stated that chev bellhousings are shallow, so you may not have that much. Sure enough I measure it all up and I have around 20 thou clearance.
Apparently It's OK to space the bellhousing out a little from the block using washers.... No thanks. Or I can buy a 250 thou spacer from the supplier and then shim the throwout bearing up to the correct clearance. It's from a US company, so wouldn't be a fast turnaround time, of cheap. I figured I'd have to make my own up instead.
Of course no decent aluminium place is open on a saturday arvo, so I went to masters/bunnings for a look. Sure enough, masters sell sheets of 3mm plate aluminium.
3mm is around 120 thou, which gets me pretty close. The instructions say 100 thou is still OK, so 140 though should be fine. Plus there's more spiggot engagement that if I used a thicker spacer, which I like the idea of.
I've gotten as far as marking the plate up with a scribe and hopefully I get some time tonight to cut something out.
Hi Scott,
The clearance you need is not between the bearing face and clutch fingers. The bearing on a Concentric Slave Cylinder runs on the pressure plate fingers and is designed to be compressed by more then 0.5" when at rest.
Its the compressed clearance of the CSC that you need to measure, to make sure it does not bottom out.
Measure from the clutch fingers to the gearbox mounting face on the bellhousing. Then measure from the front of the gearbox case the surface of the fully collapsed bearing.
Subtract the first measurement from the second to give you how much clearance or cushion you have. Anywhere between 1/8" (0.125") to 3/8" (0.375") is ok. Anywhere in this range is ok and there is no advantage/disadvantage being in the upper or lower end of the range.
If the clearance is more then 3/8" then a CSC spacer will need to go between the bearing and gearbox to move the CSC closer to the engine.
If its less the 1/8" then you will need a bellhousing to gearbox spacer to move the gearbox and CSC further away from the engine/bellhouing.
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Yep, that's exactly what I have measured.
Clutch fingers to outside bellhousing face was 64.7mm
Gearbox mounting face to collapsed bearing face was 64.2mm.
Difference is 0.5mm, or 20 thou clearance when compressed.
As the clutch wears, the fingers will stick out more. I figure the clearance is to allow for that, so that the bearing isn't fully collapsed and under load when the clutch is towards the end of it's life.
I guess I was assuming the CSC returns to fully compressed once you take your foot off the pedal, hence referring to the gap as the clearance between the two. Either way, a 3mm spacer between the gearbox and engine will sort it out.
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Hi Scott,
I read your post as clearance between the clutch fingers and bearing face and spacing the bellhousing away from the block, where its cushion clearance and spacing the gearbox away from the bellhousing. Anyway glad you have got it sorted :thumb:
I am going to be setting up my clutch and CSC this weekend. Looking at your post it looks like I might be in for a 1/8" gearbox to bellhousing spacer as well :grr:
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I just re-read my instructions and they refer to the clearance as an air-gap between the bearing and fingers. Sounds like your instructions explain it differently. I was going to make a spacer for between the bellhousing and engine, but between the bell and gearbox is probably a better idea. I skimmed over reading that part obviously :bouncesmile: I'll have a look at the box when I get home.
Hopefully your clutch package is slightly shorter than mine and it all works out, or you only need to throw a shim under the CSC.
IMPORTANT for GM Customers: Your GM bell housing is very shallow. Due to the variances in flywheel and clutch stack-up height you may find that you do not have enough room for the release bearing. If you cannot achieve a minimum of .080” of air gap between the bearing at rest and the clutch fingers, use a small washer or spacer at each of the bolts between the bell housing and the transmission to move the transmission back as much as .200”. A turnkey .250” CNC machined aluminum spacer is available for $49 if you prefer.
NOTE: Do not pry pull the HRB apart when removing for shimming. Your HRB is sealed and prefilled with fluid. Use a small prybar to gently push the assembly away from the front of the gearbox if needed.
If this is not sufficient American Powertrain stocks several low profile clutch pressure plates that will reduce stack-up height on the clutch by as much as ½”. This should be considered as a final option and is not generally necessary.
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On a side note, I also considered removing the bearing retainer from the front of the box to see if I could machine the front face down slightly. I could have gained around 40 thou quite easily doing that by the look of it, but I doubt I would have gotten all I needed.
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I don't know why they would say an air gap between the bearing at rest and the clutch fingers when the bearing at rest is compressed against the clutch fingers to within 1/8" to 3/8" of bottoming out.
For sure, make the spacer between the tranny and bellhousing.
You got me worried about mine so went out to the shed and measured between the compressed bearing face and gearbox case. Mine comes to 60mm which if I was using the same flywheel and clutch as you would give me about 3/16" clearance. Problem is I am using a relatively thin flywheel and centre force clutch. Guess I will have to wait until the weekend to set it up and check.
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My CSC has no spring pushing it in either direction, so once it's compressed, it stays that way and there is an air gap between the bearing face and the clutch fingers.
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Scott
Reading this is Confusing
You will need to make sure you have sufficient room to allow for the wear in the clutch.
As the clutch wears the fingers will move back towards the gear box .
In setting the slave cylinder up its important to get it correct .
If there is not enought clearance at set up then some time as the clutch wears it will start to slip
There should be a shim pack under the hydraulic throw out bearing .
I would like to read the instructions
Bfit
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Scott
I read your posts on setting up the bellhousing . I have been working on engines and gear boxes for 50 Years I have never done this procedure and never had a gear box fail.
But each to There Own
I would point out one fact
Chev engines have 0.0025" to 0.005" clearance in the main bearing which means at rest the crank will sit down in most cases 0.0025 "
This should be taken into consideration if you really want the bellhousing centred accurately .
Bfit
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Link to instructions below. As you said, normally you measure the gap to allow for clutch wear, then put shims under the bearing until you get the right clearance.
Due to the size of the hyd bearing, and the shallow depth of chev bellhousings, there is insufficient clearance to start with. So to gain the correct clearance I need to move the clutch (attached to the engine) away from the bearing (attached to the gearbox). The only way to do that is to add a spacer somewhere between the engine and gearbox.
http://americanpowertrain.com/attachment/38310-.pdf (http://americanpowertrain.com/attachment/38310-.pdf)
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Interesting read
It does seem to cover the setting up in detail.
Have you thought of machining the flywheel
Bfit
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I hadn't thought of that. Still, 3mm is a lot of material to take off. I'll stick with the spacer between the box and bellhousing. the bellhousing is located by the front bearing retainer anyway and has much more than 3mm engagement, so there isn't any issue with things moving or being out of alignment (hopefully).
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The original flywheel is 28lb. Chev did supply a flywheel for a 10.5" clutch that was 15lb.
as long as there is sufficient clearance in the flywheel retaining blots and at least 7/16" of thread on the clutch retaining bolts. I would think it would be a good option.
Bfit
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I'm running a 400, not a 350, so externally balanced. Not sure if that makes a difference.
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I'm running a 400, not a 350, so externally balanced. Not sure if that makes a difference.
I think that's one of those cases best left alone.
How much meat is on the back end of the throw out assembly
personally I'm not keen on spacers , but sometimes they are unavoidable.
bfit
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I'm not super keen on spacers either, but the bellhousing will be aligned on the bearing retainer and I'll loctite the bolts, so there shouldn't be any issues with movement.
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Scott
How much torque will is the engine making.
( I'm glad I when with a 6 speed magnum less problems and handles more torque )
Bob
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Considering it's a stock 400 with a performer manifold and a set of shorty headers, not a huge amount. Realistically, the gearbox is rated to 600lbft (with a considerable safety margin). The tyres won't hold that much torque on the street anyway. The spacer will put a tiny more amount of stress on the bolts, but not enough to be any worry to anything. The clutch will still be the weak link in the system. So I can't foresee and mechanical danger of using a 3mm spacer.
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I used the Bathurst weekend as a good excuse to disappear into the shed and get some stuff done. Luckily I have a borrowed telly in the shed for such occasions.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-10-11-954_zpspccjxijz.jpg)
Also had my No.1 helper on the job.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-10-11-955_zpskd2qmlsp.jpg)
After making and fitting my bellhousing spacer, putting the hyd. throwout bearing on and adding the lines, I hoisted the box up, then spent 15 or so mins adjusting angles and heights before everything slipped smoothly into place.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-10-11-956_zps6fcfduee.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-10-11-957_zpsra6yprtz.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-10-11-958_zps4roiybpb.jpg)
I spent more time trying to nudge the crossmember into the right place so I could bolt it to the chassis, and then tightened up the tranny mount bolts. After that I spent some time looking at the angle of the box and thought to myself that can't be sitting right...
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-10-11-960_zpsqyyrydp4.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-10-11-961_zpsmu23s2bn.jpg)
I checked with a straight edge and the cross member doesn't look bent, but who knows. I know the engine is sitting a little high, so I'll fix that up and then try measure the angles of the box and diff. I'll throw int he tailshaft as well. Hopefully I can get the angles right by shimming things up and down. Otherwise, the vibrations will be killer.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-10-11-962_zps7hc1kp9n.jpg)
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yes it does look to be at the wrong angle .
the engine should be set around 3 deg downwards towards the diff
and the rear of the box must be above the diff input.
you should find your diff will be set vertical at the yoke that goes against all the advice you will read , however I believe that is the factory set up.
Id ne interested to know if you check your diff and find it is set differently
Bfit
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Hi Scott,
How far can you jack the back of the box up before it touches the tunnel?
Also is the bottom of the floor parallel with the cross member or is it sagging in the middle?
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The floor looks pretty much parallel with the x-member. I remember you put the rubber blocks in your to lift the floor. I can probably lift the rear 5-10mm, and drop the engine 5mm. I should be able to lift up the front of the diff a little too. I called it a day after the box was bolted in and watched the last 10 laps fro the comfort of the couch. Tonight I'll pump up the rear tyre and accurately measure the angles with the anglemeter on my old nokia phone.
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I just had a good look under the car. The floor seems to be parallel to the cross member, but it probably wouldn't hurt to place some rubber blocks to support it once the seats are back in with some bodies. There is about 15mm clearance above the gearbox so I should be able to lift that a decent amount. I'll fix the engine mounts first to get the front sitting down where it should be. I currently have spacers between the engine mount and block because things didn't line up properly. Now I have better access under there, I'll fix it properly.
Looking at the diff, shimming the front will drop the nose and make things worse. If I really get stuck I could reduce the thickness of the poly bush to lift the nose a little. I'll save that as a last resort.
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Put you trans member under yout original box with rubber mount etc and measure up to the centre line of the box, then you will have a reference to whete the new box should be.
Bfit
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I sold the old auto long ago, so that one won't work unfortunately.
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My '79 is on the hoist at the moment (rear suspension out), I'd be happy to measure anything you like. Mine is a factory 4 speed. I can measure angles, but we'd need to establish a baseline first (angle of chassis at gearbox crossmember perhaps?) to account for any differences in the angle of the car itself. Or I can measure height from top of crossmember to output shaft on gearbox? Or whatever would be most useful, just let me know and I'll measure it tonight after work.
Cheers,
Andrew.
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Thanks mate. I don't think extra measurements will help though. In the end I'll be limited by how much I can level out the engine and gearbox before it hits the floor.
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Fair enough, just figured it might be useful for a baseline. ~3 degrees is normal for engine/gearbox and diff angle in my (non-corvette) experience, I was intrigued by the post above regarding diff angle being 0.
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Fair enough, just figured it might be useful for a baseline. ~3 degrees is normal for engine/gearbox and diff angle in my (non-corvette) experience, I was intrigued by the post above regarding diff angle being 0.
hi Metal
I have 4 c3`s and all the diffs are the same angle, I am keen to hear form anyone who find theirs is different .
logic says the angles trans and diff should be congruent to allow the universals to work correctly and keep vibrations to a minimum.
At worst the two should be with in 1 deg of drive and driven.
I wonder what influence there is in the fact that engine sits in the frame at an angle.
interesting field mechanics, there is always something different to contemplate.
Id like to hear a good explanation or do I just have 4 cars that are wrong in this department
Why is it so ( is the question )
Bfit
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Yeh, interesting. We maybe shouldn't clog Scotts thread with discussion on it, but I might measure mine when I put the rear end back in just for curiosity sake. I agree that you normally want them at the same (or very close) angle, normally ~3 degrees, and that's what I've worked on when fabbing mounts and swapping boxes and rear ends in the past.
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I didn't measure it, but the diff on mine seemed pretty close to 0 degrees. Tonight I'll be pulling the headers off and trying to get the mounts to fit. If I get around to it, I'll pump up the rear tyre and try measure some angles. I'll be using a phone app, so not the most accurate, but should give a reasonable idea.
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mate it is surprising how accurate the phone might be
mate sure you zero it against a level an see how you go
Bfit
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My phone is 5 years old, so the technology may not be that advanced. It's great for taking pics while I'm working in the shed though. Nokias last forever.
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On the weekend I cut the mount off the bracket supplied with the kit and re-welded it 20mm higher. Final result the gearbox now sits a fair bit more level. I'll have to fiddle with the diff angle a little but I should be able to get it to match now.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-10-27-977_zps7kiyb3rb.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-10-27-976_zps9zpwxu9t.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-10-27-973_zpsslnrrocj.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-10-27-972_zps7t5k1bta.jpg)
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hi scott
Make sure that the rear of your transmission is higher that the diff input.
if the trans is lower than the diff, with the trans angled down toward the rear you will have a problem.
Bfit
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I can't get the trans any higher at the back. It's at the point where it's almost touching the floor. I'll be lifting the nose of the diff so that the trans and diff are parallel. Then the tailshaft will do it's thing in between.
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I've been making slow progress on this still. There are a few pics on my old phone that I'll need to grab at some point.
The tailshaft is in, and the diff and gearbox are running close enough to parallel so there shouldn't be too many terrible vibrations.
One thing I did discover is the starter snout on automatic cars is aluminium, and is a few mm larger in size than the cast iron snout used on manual cars. I spent quite some time trying to work out why my starter wouldn't go close to fitting, and they get heavy once you hold them up for a while.
I bought a cheap gear reduction starter of ebay. After taking a few measurements I bolted it in, but I have no idea how I can check the clearance between the teeth without pulling the gearbox again... I guess once I get more wires in I'll have an idea if it spins the engine or not.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/IMG_20160116_113341_zpsrjzhg4sp.jpg)
I also had some fun drilling holes in the firewall for my hydraulic clutch master. It's a 2 person job, which made it extremely difficult trying to do it myself. After way too many hours I finally got the holes drilled in the right place and managed to bolt it up in place. I just need to hook up the lines and reservior, hook it to the pedal and I'll have a clutch.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/IMG_20151229_132850_zpsuicgzpnf.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/IMG_20151229_132626_zpsr8yj3tci.jpg)
I also discovered that since lowering the engine to help with driveline angles, the power steering pump pulley was sitting on the front x-member. For some reason there is a random adjuster bracket from who knows what holding the pump right out at the top, which pushes the pulled further down. I removed that and I'll still only get 3mm clearance at best. The ps pulley is pretty close to the x-member on vettes anyway, but I thought I'd like a little more clearance.
So I sliced the main bracket and I'll re-weld it up to gain another 5mm or so clearance. Normally the alternator would be above the power steering pump on a vette, but mines over the other side as it's a truck motor with a long water pump, so lifting the pump shouldn't be an issue.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/IMG_20160116_114907_zps77d3rq36.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/IMG_20160116_114855_zpswteg2tlc.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/IMG_20160116_121340_zpscwt0dr9r.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/IMG_20160116_121352_zpsal0kkqcf.jpg)
I need to weld it up now and bolt it back on.
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Interesting clutch master cylinder mounting does it make the master cylinder sit level does it have a remote reservoir?.Where was it sourced from
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Talk to mal wood he does a nice set up that's goes on the side of the pedal box.
I like the old machanical set up .
Works , don't leak, functions in all temperatures and a bonus good feel.
Bfit
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Interesting clutch master cylinder mounting does it make the master cylinder sit level does it have a remote reservoir?.Where was it sourced from
It's a willwood master but the whole kit came from american power train. In a vette it will sit on a pretty decent angle to properly align with the pivot point on the clutch pedal. It has a remote reservoir, otherwise it'd hit on the booster.
Here's the willwood kit by itself:
http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderProd.aspx?itemno=260-10371 (http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderProd.aspx?itemno=260-10371)
I looked into the Mal Wood under dash set-up for my Mustang. I've heard they are good but it isn't cheap, to say the least.
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i have seen a kit on some of the vette forums that mounts a bracket under the booster with the provision to mount the clutch master when this one is shower.
it takes the load of the fiberglass.
bfit
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it takes the load of the fiberglass.
There is a layer of steel in the footwell of my 73, with the glass on the engine side, so the load would be quite well distributed over the area.
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I just dumped the pics off my old phone. Nothing too exciting. There are some string lines from when I did my wheel alignment, but nothing else, a pic of my new shorter diff mount and some of the shifter poking through.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-12-09-1077_zpsqwqp2idl.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-12-09-1072_zpsxkv5uw7p.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-11-16-1050_zpsnkiegi8d.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-11-16-1048_zpspz2yjr79.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-11-16-1047_zpssy9dpo61.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-11-16-1046_zpsxqnfticc.jpg)
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After modifying the PS bracket, I needed something to adjust it and hold it in place, so I busted out the cardboard.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/IMG_20160213_123134_zpsxdbztixk.jpg)
Transferred it to metal.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/IMG_20160213_123303_zpsvl9odi3v.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/IMG_20160213_123327_zpsvrfnrc5n.jpg)
Kind of worked out how it would fit.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/IMG_20160213_123421_zpsanivhtsl.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/IMG_20160213_125359_zpsilw4ucel.jpg)
Then put some bends in it so it would line up right and trimmed it back.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/IMG_20160213_133813_zpsvzkoxf2f.jpg)
It had to be flush as that face bolts to the front of the block. I welded it up, and of course forgot to take any more pics of it. It's been sprayed black and now holds the PS pump on teh front of the block, with good clearance to the front x-member.
Next I decided it's time for the engine to make some angry noises for the first time in many years. Since there is no interior, or wiring loom past the firewall, I wired up a push button to hook to the starter. Then I tried priming the oil with a drill. I had no idea if it was working until I pullet the oil pressure sender. Once that was out and the dizzy was in, I kicked engine over using the starter and oil came out the sender hole, so all good.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/IMG_20160221_121435_zpshrzdf0s5.jpg)
I then tried to set the static timing, but ran into the issue of no spark. Tried a few things, but I was pretty tired and not thinking straight. Next night I checked the coil with a multimeter and it seemed fine.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/IMG_20160223_195744_zpslhwpqrph.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/IMG_20160223_195857_zpsixzz0wzh.jpg)
I put the coil back in and kicked the engine over with the lead close to the rocker and got 2 sparks...
Then I hooked up a test light across the + and - terminals of the coils and spun the engine again, and nothing so likely points.
I also took a wire and ground the - coil terminal. As soon as I let it off I got a nice spark from the HT lead. So points it is. Now I just need some time to play some more.
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Hey Scott,
Your car looks to be coming along well! Annoying about the ignition dramas.
Funnily enough I now have a tko600 sitting on the floor in my garage. What angle did you end up settling on for the engine and box, and did you end up raising the front of the diff? I'll measure things up before pulling out the engine and box, but it would be good to get an idea of where you are at with yours. I decided to keep my existing bellhousing and mechanical clutch linkage, ordered the box from Mal Wood (cheaper with the current $ and freight/import fees), and a few Vette specific parts from Hurst (haven't arrived yet). What shifter is used in the American Powertrain kit? It doesn't look like the standard tremec shifter?
Cheers and thanks,
Andrew.
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Hi metal ,
I'm jumping in on Scott's thread here
Look at the original vette engine to trany setup engine angled down to the rear 3 to 3.5 deg's and angled right to left in the vehicle, ( I never measured the angle )
Diff is mounts horizontal , no drive shaft problems .
The debate on matching diff angle to engine angle is a long and ongoing.
But look at the history.
C2,C3 and 4 all have the diff mounted horizontal in the vehicle .
The matching of engine and diff angles is mainly applicable to cars with a solid rear leaf sprung axle set up as the dIf angle changes so much under acceleration bracking and corning.
Give it some thought .
Just my opinion
I run a tremec magnum in a C3 the main thing is to be make sure the rear of the gearbox is higher than the diff imput.
My engine sits at 3 deg's, diff horizontal
Consider the half shafts on the diff the yoke is horizontal in both planes.
The wheel normally runs 1 to 2 deg's camber.
How many drive shafts have you seen fail in a vette due to the variations in angles,
engine to diff , diff to wheel.
Bfit
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Ahhh Bobby your a wealth of knowledge bro :thumb:
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I didn't settle for a specific angle as such. I just tried to get the gearbox and diff to run as parallel as I could. It's not an issue with the driveshaft failing, but more that if the angles differ too greatly, you will get a vibration in the driveline due to the way uni joints work.
When I first bolted everything in using the trans mount supplied in the kit, I had a pretty big slope on the gearbox as you can see below.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-10-11-961_zpsmu23s2bn.jpg)
I cut the trans mount up and rewelded it 20mm higher so the gearbox was close to the floor, but not touching. I also has some spacers on the engine mounts to make everything bolt up smoothly. I removed them and did some clearancing to get the bolts to fit again and dropped the engine around 10mm.
Lastly I took 2-3mm off the front diff mount to lift the nose ever so slightly so things are fairly parallel now.
As mine was an auto swap, I didn't have an original bell housing or clutch to use. The shifter is a custom one from American Drivetrain to bring it up int eh factory location. The tailshaft is a different length also. I believe my new one is shorter than the original.
If you have any Q's, fire away.
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Alright, thanks guys! Yes, I plan to measure the current arrangement before I remove it and align it as closely as possible to original, I'm just collecting information on what others have done before I get started. I was also considering raising the diff, so need to look at my options.
Thanks for all the tips! Hope you don't mind the thread hijack Scott.
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I don't believe you will get a vibration if
The rear of the gearbox is above the imput of the diff at least 25mm
The angle of the engine is less than 3deg's
The angle of the drive shaft is between 1.5 to 2.5 deg's
My drive shaft is going7000rpm flat out in 5th gear that's about 130 m/h
The only problem I have encounter is stopping the car Late enought to stay I front of the later modle cars
Bfit
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Yeh, I'm considering raising the diff for suspension geometry reasons rather than driveshaft alignment. Raising the diff will allow me lower ride height without the excessive change in toe with suspension travel that occurs with low ride height and standard diff height.
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Booyah!
https://youtu.be/PpL4sfza3pA (https://youtu.be/PpL4sfza3pA)
Can I embed this somehow? I can't see the option.
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:pepper: :indeed: :indeed:
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Yeh!! :drunk: :cheers: :drunk: Congrats, bet that put a smile on your face!
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Nothing like the first start up :drunk:
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I was pretty happy after that. It took ages to get the fuel pump to prime, but got there in the end. There are a few leads sitting on the exhaust, and I haven't added any water yet so only short runs. I'll stuff in the hei and get some new right angle leads. That'll fix the issues with exhaust contact. I have some insulation sleeves too.
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I'll bet! Sounds good. Where'd you buy the insulating sleeves? I need to get some of those myself.
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Where'd you buy the insulating sleeves? I need to get some of those myself.
Summit. I made up a list of a bunch of small parts I needed for 2 different cars.
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Ah ok, thanks. Just received a shipment from summit (and placed one with Jegs). Will have to keep it in mind for the next one...
Measured my engine/box and diff angles tonight. With my hoist lowered onto a lock, the diff angle was 0 degrees and the engine and box was sitting at 2.3 degrees.
Received my package from Hurst on Friday. The gearbox mount looks similar to yours, but there are shims included and the instructions state:
The Hurst TKO crossmember brackets are designed to give you an appropriate driveline angle and at the same time allow your TKO to fit within your tunnel. Your driveline angle with a TKO installed will be slightly different than your stock driveline angle but still within an acceptable tolerance range. If you happen to have enough space between the top of the transmission and the bottom of the floorboard, use the provided transmission mount shims to raise the transmission up further into the tunnel as this will result in an optimal driveshaft angle.
Guessing there wasn't something similar in your kit?
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No shims in my kit.
I've hooked up the hydraulics for the clutch and bolted my brake master cylinder on now. Added some fluid, and it seems one of my front calipers is leaking... And that's just with gravity. I pulled the wheel off to have a look. Pads out and it looks like one piston is leaking. I've changed from lip seals to o-rings, so I'll have to pull it apart again and see what the go is. Yay, more brakefluid everywhere...
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D'oh... That's frustrating. Better to find it now though I suppose?
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I pulled the caliper apart last night and it was full of grit. I'd had the same issue previously with the calipers leaking and when I pulled them they were full of grit. That's when I changed them from lip seals to o-ring seals. But going through my spare parts and it turns out that was only the rears that I did. I kind of realised when I split the caliper and the bolts were dry that I hadn't had them apart before, as I put antiseize on everything when I bolt it back together. Over time I'd forgotten that I needed to do the fronts as well... At least the fronts are new calipers, or at least where when I got the car 10 years ago. Nice stainless sleeves etc, but they are still lip seals. I'll pull the other one tonight as it'll be full too. I'm not sure where all the grit came from. It may have been in the lines when I bought it, who knows. But once I clean out the last caliper, hopefully that's the end of it.
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Fingers crossed. How much left to go before you're driving once you get that done?
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Once the brakes work I'll be able to drive it, although:
I'll be sitting on a milk crate as there is no interior at all, bar a steering wheel.
I'll have to hotwire it as there is no wiring whatsoever in the interior.
I can't drive it far as the plug boots are sitting against the headers.
And the fuel supply is currently a gatoraid bottle with the fuel hose stuck into it.
Also there is no exhaust attached to the headers.
So all in all, pretty close :drag:
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Should be on the road by Easter then! Good progress, keep after it and it'll be done soon enough. And do the drive as is, it'll be worthwhile motivation!
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Feel free to let me know if you'd prefer I didn't post more here, but I thought you might be interested. I got my tko bolted in this afternoon, using the Hurst mounts. I can't use any shims to raise the box, it's very very close to touching the top of the tunnel as it is. The difference in angle between box and diff has increased from ~2.5 degrees to just under 4 degrees. Hopefully will still be ok, will have a look at the angle on the unis when I get a driveshaft in (have to get it shortened). Don't think it's as steep as yours was, but it's still an obvious angle on the engine and box:
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s475/metalhead140/Mobile%20Uploads/WP_20160320_17_55_43_Pro_LI_zpsrxrsatuf.jpg) (http://s1053.photobucket.com/user/metalhead140/media/Mobile%20Uploads/WP_20160320_17_55_43_Pro_LI_zpsrxrsatuf.jpg.html)
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s475/metalhead140/Mobile%20Uploads/WP_20160320_17_55_18_Pro_LI_zpsqiuxd978.jpg) (http://s1053.photobucket.com/user/metalhead140/media/Mobile%20Uploads/WP_20160320_17_55_18_Pro_LI_zpsqiuxd978.jpg.html)
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looks like a marriage made in heaven :thumb:
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I can still get my fingers in between the top of the box and the body, so probably just under 10mm clearance, although I have the vette specific shifter so I don't know if that sits any higher of lower than the stock one.
The angle on your transmission looks similar to mine.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/2015-10-27-973_zpsslnrrocj.jpg)
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Looks good, and as you say, fairly similar to mine, so that's good, makes me feel more confident about it. I need to open up my shifter hole a bit for clearance of the modified stick shifter, and will have to buy a different rubber boot to suit, but the stick comes up perfect through the console. The back of the next flat bit forward of the shifter on the box is tight enough that I can't get my fingers between it and the floor. Dropping off my driveshaft to be shortened today, and my pistons at the machine shop. All going well I might have everything back to reassemble it over Easter... Probably not though!
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Still progressing with this. A while ago I bought an allow brake MC to replace my leaking one. Looking at it closely, it's cast from the same style mold at the original, but the reservoir has been formed with a re-usable plug rather than sand casting like the original. the result is a much smaller reservoir and much thicker walls. It's still lighter than the original, but could be much lighter. It still has unneeded lugs on the outside etc. Not bad for the $120US I think it cost me.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/IMG_20160309_201357_zps9bcjdsen.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/IMG_20160309_201449_zpsk4ynagx2.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/IMG_20160309_202417_zpsbs6epbdz.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/IMG_20160309_202441_zpsvwh6phju.jpg)
I also found a place for the hydraulic clutch reservoir, tucked slightly under the guard.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/IMG_20160309_202521_zps6hsweb3x.jpg)
Lines all connected up, ready to go.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/IMG_20160309_202607_zps8k2twwnq.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/IMG_20160309_202752_zpsef12lkhx.jpg)
So I started filling up the brakes with fluid, ready for the painful bleeding process, only to discover a major leak from one of the front calipers. Upon pulling it apart, it was full of grit. I had run into this issue previously with the rear calipers. I cleaned them out and replaced the lip seals with the better o-ring type seals. That was a few years ago, so I'd completely forgotten that I never did the fronts.
I pulled the calipers and split them.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/IMG_20160325_104129_zpsmwqiicvn.jpg)
One of the halves has been punched to hold the dust seals in place. These seals still popped out much easier than all the others I've done.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/IMG_20160325_104306_zpsx5tlausf.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/IMG_20160325_104443_zpsqpogwuyi.jpg)
The piston had a bit of crud on it, but nothing over the top.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/IMG_20160325_104557_zpsxkvhtfzd.jpg)
And here's the grit inside. The other caliper had 2-3 times more grit inside and was the one leaking.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/IMG_20160325_104603_zpstrvhjvot.jpg)
Here's the other caliper half, with no punch marks.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/IMG_20160325_105052_zpsgublsoqr.jpg)
Once everything was apart, I gave all the parts a good scrub and then dried the calipers in the oven to make sure there was no water in the galleries. 75 degrees did it great. Then I masked off where I didn't want paint and hit it all with some satin black.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/IMG_20160319_100619_zpssttzf6rg.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/IMG_20160319_101223_zpsqyssh4et.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/IMG_20160320_101059_zpsuhiwytbs.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/IMG_20160320_102010_zpspfuzk4dr.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/IMG_20160325_110637_zpsqzfkzhxg.jpg)
Everything is bolted back together, but no fluid yet as I was distracted by the interior. I've filled all the holes in the firewall with rubber grommets to keep the hot air out as vettes are notorious for having hot footwells, mainly due to hot air shooting through random holes. I also had a bit of a think about the vacuum system that runs the aircon and heater system. There is a vacuum switch that is activated when the temp lever is set to full cold. This vacuum switch then activates a vacuum valve, which turns off the water supply to the heater core. I think I'll just ignore all this and fit a ball valve to the heater line. I can then turn on the heater manually for those 2 weeks of the year when I need it.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/IMG_20160329_201308_zpsaonjdnin.jpg)
I think the next thing I need to do is put the wiring harness back into the car. I have already pulled a lot of extra wires out of it, but there's still a heap more that I'll be removing I think. I spotted the wires that went to the neutral safety switch on the old auto so I'll have to join those, and I'll be pulling all the courtesy light stuff out and re-doing that with LED's, which I already have. First up I need to buy a decent soldering iron.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l238/S_c_o_t_t_W/vette/IMG_20160329_210052_zpsyesrk1q4.jpg)
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Good work!