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Semi sealed headlights for my '70

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Matt G:
Hey all,
Can an aftermarket semi sealed headlight be fitted directly into my current sealed headlight hole, etc?.  Also does anyone know what the max halogen wattage that regular wiring will run (without relays), and the same for xenon bulbs (assuming a conversion lead/adapter is used)?  Last, does anyone know of an LED option for semi sealed lights?
Cheers

sirfixalot:
The wiring is only part of the problem - more current = more voltage drop so lights probably wont be any brighter  - solution relays switch higher current via larger diameter wire.
2nd problem is headlight switch has a thermal circuit breaker internally - more current = more heat so headlights will flash on & off when circuit breaker operates.
Only solution is relays or leave the standard sealed beams.
H4 type headlites will fit into bucket it may be necessary to enlarge the hole in headlight door to clear the rubber boot on rear of light

anychevy:

--- Quote from: sirfixalot on May 23, 2013, 09:07:24 AM ---The wiring is only part of the problem - more current = more voltage drop so lights probably wont be any brighter  - solution relays switch higher current via larger diameter wire.
2nd problem is headlight switch has a thermal circuit breaker internally - more current = more heat so headlights will flash on & off when circuit breaker operates.
Only solution is relays or leave the standard sealed beams.
H4 type headlites will fit into bucket it may be necessary to enlarge the hole in headlight door to clear the rubber boot on rear of light

--- End quote ---
Sealed beams (or any light bulb) will build up tungsten deposits on the inside of the glass with age and make them dull.
As above, 40 year old wiring, bad grounds and resistance will cause voltage drop and also make them appear yellow.

You will probably find, with the addition of relays, stock GE or Wagner sealed beams will be a big improvement.

H4 inserts will definitely improve the lighting even more and I think you can get 100w bulbs for the inner high beam.
Again, relays are a must.

Another thing to check, is the spacing of the locating tabs on the back of the reflector is correct.
They may look the same, or close, but some will be "cockeyed" in the bezel

bfit:
Relays are a must 
You can hide them in the area in the front of the guards to the left of the radiator.

Its good Idea to run dedicated supply and ground wires to the battery
 As you can not could on the frame to ground correctly after 40 odd years
One  thing you don’t want is a hot joint from a bad ground that can start a fire
in the worst scenario

work out the amperage  requires and double it then use the appropriate cabling
Make sure to fit a fuse or fusible link a the battery end of supply

As I remember it from schools days

Volts ( V )  over  amps ( I ) x  resistance (ohm’s )
Its important to note the total length of cabling including ground back to battery
you are going to need  something like a 10mm cable supply and ground
If you think you may want electric fans  in the future   use larger cabling
those fans suck some juice 

Bfit

Matt G:
Thanks all. I've got my local (highly recommended) auto sparky finishing all of my cables, etc now.  I'll have him put in the heavier wires and relays with my existing light, so that I can play with them (with out fear of blowing something up) when I get the beast home.  I hear you with regards to the groundings.  I had so many issues, and spent so much time trying to fix the labyrinth of stuff intermittently working that I gave up and handed over to someone with a more useful brain than mine.
Sounds like the mechanical part of this will be tight, but should fit with some "massaging".
Cheers

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