Technical Tips > Electrical-Electronics-Air-Lighting-Guages-Security-Vacuum

Alternator 2 wire to 1 wire

(1/3) > >>

mick:
Hi All,
        I finally got my new engine running and did a test run yesterday, all was good except for an electrical problem and all I can put it down to is the alternator.

When I updated the engine I got a billet 1 wire alternator after finding info on the net how to upgrade the wiring, which was just join the two wires and it will be all good.


The engine started fine and Im getting a charge reading on my gauge in the car when the engine is running, the only problem is my stupid imoboliser is going crazy putting my blinkers on whislt driving the car and eventually shutting the engine down untill I dis-connect and reconnect battery power.

Its a painfull one but im hoping someone else may have gone through this before as well and may be able to offer some advice.

Thanks

Mick

im thinking burn the imoboliser !!!!

wabco40:
Hello Mick,
Do you have or can you get a schematic of how the immobiliser is wired into your car.
If not burn it:grr:

Reklaw:
Hi Mick,
Is it really a one wire or is it a three wire which is sometimes called a one wire, probably because it has an inbuilt regulator?

I'd be surprised if you put a one wire in, you won't have an ignition (dash) light with a true one wire alternator.

So, does it have a socket on the outside of the casting, maybe with a black plastic plug in it, as well as a stud/nut at the back?

Need to find out a bit more about what you've got before thinking about the immobiliser problem. It all sounds a bit strange.

Bob

wabco40:

--- Quote from: Reklaw link=topic=9064.msg1045942099#msg1045942099 ---Hi Mick,
Is it really a one wire or is it a three wire which is sometimes called a one wire, probably because it has an inbuilt regulator?

I'd be surprised if you put a one wire in, you won't have an ignition (dash) light with a true one wire alternator.

So, does it have a socket on the outside of the casting, maybe with a black plastic plug in it, as well as a stud/nut at the back?

Need to find out a bit more about what you've got before thinking about the immobiliser problem. It all sounds a bit strange.

Bob
--- End quote ---


Hello Bob,
Early models did not have a ignition dash light. The brown excite wire goes from the ignition switch to the alternator. The red charge and sense wires run back from the alternator to the horn relay and then to the main battery terminal on the starter solenoid.

I too would be interested to know how Mick wired up the alternator. A true 1 wire self exciting set-up only requires a wire from the main stud on the back of the alternator to the battery (or to the battery terminal on the starter solenoid).
Brad

mick:
Definately a one wire alternator (see details and link below).

I was wrong after speaking to my auto elec, he left the wire off that lights up the dash when you turn the key.
I believe that's where the whole problem is steming from but Im not sure as what to do from here.



ALTERNATORS
Use early 70’s style with 6 and 12 o’clock mounting holes
March Billet Alternator
Stylish Billet aluminum alternator replaces your plain OEM alternator, 140 AMP one wire hook-up (Does not include pulley or fan)
GM 140 amp 10si style case
1 wire Billet alternator
Part #9650
 http://www.marchperf.com/pg52.html#billetalt



Im a bit stressed right now as I just booked my accomodation in Woolongong.

Thanks  Mick

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page