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Unique Cars condition codes

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gillmoss:
Hi guys,
Sorry if this is in the wrong place but I'm new to this forum.
I've been interested in corvettes for a while now and just recently had the funds to buy one myself. I saw that in the April Edition of Unique Cars (Issue 310) it had an American Buyers Guide. I was wondering what you all thought of the prices they've given here.  I'm especially interested in 1960's corvettes so those are the prices I'll post but if you want to discuss the rest i'll be happy to post them as well.
(The conditions are either 1, 2 or 3 but there is no guide to what each number means so I'm a little confused about that)

Corvette 1955-62
Condition 3 - $28,000
Condition 2 - $57,000
Condition 1 - $85,000

Corvette Convertible 1963-67
Condition 3 - $32,000
Condition 2 - $60,000
Condition 1 - $85,000

Corvette 'Big Block' Convertible 1965-67
Condition 3 - $50,000
Condition 2 - $85,000
Condition 1 - $120,000

Corvette Convertible 1968-71
Condition 3 - $22,000
Condition 2 - $35,000
Condition 1 -  $57,000

Corvette 'Big Block' Convertible 1968-73
Condition 3 - $30,000
Condition 2 - $55,000
Condition 1 - $75,000

Corvette Coupe 1963-67
Condition 3 - $35,000
Condition 2 - $57,000
Condition 1 - $72,000

Corvette 'Big Block' Coupe 1965-67
Condition 3 - $50,000
Condition 2 - $78,000
Condition 1 - $110,000

Corvette Coupe 1968-72
Condition 3 - $19,000
Condition 2 - $37,500
Condition 1 - $48,000

Corvette 'Big Block' Coupe 1968-72
Condition 3 - $25,000
Condition 2 - $47,500
Condition 1 - $68,000


Could somebody at least shed some light on the 1-3 grading system? Is this a common system that is used or did Unique Cars just make this vague system up for this article? I'm also aware this may be a little vague with the years, as from what I've seen there is a big peak in prices on the 63 corvettes.
Thanks in Advanced

demonx:
Usually - a lot of the guides are in accurate based on where they obtain their information.

I don't like to follow guides for this info - I'd rather window shop aroiund for a while and get a true sense of market rather than reading a false value.

For example - I've heard the red book guide has based their prices on what people tell the state road authorities - which is never true as no-one ever wants to pay full stamp duties.

There is the glass guide - which is used by most insurance companies. I cannot remember where they get their info but it's not always great either.

The Unique cars guide I'm not sure but I know the Just Cars guide is based on averages of what people have listed their cars for in that magazine. I'd assume the unique cars guide would be similar.

gtc:

--- Quote from: gillmoss link=topic=7671.msg1045937219#msg1045937219 ---
Could somebody at least shed some light on the 1-3 grading system? Is this a common system that is used or did Unique Cars just make this vague system up for this article?
--- End quote ---


A more common system is 1 to 6, such as this one:

http://www.firsttraderegistry.com/old_cars_price_guide.htm

... so that may give you an idea, however you'd have to contact Unique Cars and ask them for an exact explanation of their 1 to 3 rating system.


--- Quote ---I'm also aware this may be a little vague with the years, as from what I've seen there is a big peak in prices on the 63 corvettes.

--- End quote ---


Top condition 1963 "split window" Vettes can fetch a premium. When you say "1960's Corvettes", you are spanning 3 generations: the last of the C1s, the whole of the C2s and the start of the C3s, and prices will vary because of rarity -- very few C1s, a few more C2s, and even more C3s.

Are you looking to buy in Australia or the USA? If Oz, then look in places like carsales.com to see what 's being asked here.

As for actual condition, the best idea is to look around yourself and form your own impression, preferably in association with somebody knowledgeable in the series of interest.

Finally, you might find this list of things to consider helpful in general:

http://nswcorvettes.com.au/forum/viewthread.php?tid=7618&goto=search&pid=1045937079

VETTENUT:
Unique Cars issue 307 from Jan-Feb 2010  included a buyers' guide for "Aussie collector cars". Page 76 has an explanation of their 1-3 grading system. Hope this helps you on your way to 'Vette ownwership.:beer:

VET-005:
Here is the explination on how cars are evalued in the US by independent inspection agencies. I am pritty sure Unique cars would have adopted a similar format

CONDITION CLASSES

Class One (Excellent):
Almost always a “body off” restoration, or an untouched, factory-perfect, piece that is very close to perfect. All components are either original or appear as new and are fully operational. This car is a top show winner and is not driven, but transported to shows by trailer. This car is almost “one of a kind”. This particular class of vehicle is very rare. The vehicle is completely detailed, including the engine compartment, interior trim, wiring, suspension, paint, and frame. Ideally, this vehicle has been judged with other vehicles in its class and achieved the highest point ratings.

Class Two (Very Good):
This car is well restored with an eye for detail. The interior and exterior show minimal wear, and it runs and rides smoothly. The car is driven very little (maybe 800 to 1,000 miles per year). This class is a slight grade below Class One. A Class Two has not been detailed to the extent that a Class One has been. This class (Class Two) has some evidence of use and wear, although not very much. It is considered “cherry” or “mint”. This vehicle might appear as a Class One until judged against one. It would not qualify as a 95, or better, “point” vehicle. (This class should have no rust on the undercarriage, not even surface rust.)

Class Three (Good):
This is a functional, drivable vehicle in good overall condition needing no, or only minor work. Most vehicles at car shows reflect this condition. This car is what is termed a “20 footer”. From 20 feet, it may look very good. Close inspection, however, would reveal some worn interior trim, and less than perfect paint (worn, and perhaps faded). You may even see some early evidence that surface rust is beginning in the body panels. This car is completely operational and is an “older restoration”. It is driven fairly often, runs great, and is enjoyed by its owner. It is probably a candidate for a full restoration. The undercarriage may display surface rust, and may be in need of detailing. Chrome and trim may exhibit limited pitting.

Class Four (Fair):
This type of car is a fun “driver” with a solid frame and is structurally sound. This car is in need of considerable work. It needs work in and out. Cosmetics, body, and mechanical components all need work, to some degree. It is not a serious collector candidate. Soft floors, isolated areas where rust has eaten through (but not structural), excessive use of Bondo, lots of pitted chrome, glass repairs are symptoms of this condition. Badly soiled headliners, badly soiled and ripped upholstery, rusted out trunks are also signs.

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