Author Topic: 383 kits (Read 11645 times)

demonx · « **on:** June 26, 2009, 01:47:25 PM »

There seems to be several guys here that have 383's.

I'm wondering how many of those were crate engines or actual rebuilds.

I have a L46 I'm unsure whether to leave alone or kit it out to 383.

Any advice? What kits have you used?

MADLT1 · « **Reply #1 on:** June 26, 2009, 05:59:18 PM »

check out competition products in the states;ay

silver1 · « **Reply #2 on:** June 26, 2009, 06:37:57 PM »

we built mine the way we wanted it,long way to the states for warranty.
there are different combinations of stroke and rods and bore to get around 383
ie short stroke or long, torque vrs revs

gtc · « **Reply #3 on:** June 26, 2009, 09:17:41 PM »

You could check out Eagle at Dandenong:

http://www.eagleautoparts.com.au/gmzz383_fastburn.htm

silver1 · « **Reply #4 on:** June 26, 2009, 09:52:44 PM »

build you're own but buy the best gear slowly and you will get a good engine,look for a good machinist because that is where a good engine comes from
DO NOT BELEAVE USA HP YOU WILL BE DISAPPOINTED

demonx · « **Reply #5 on:** June 27, 2009, 08:17:22 AM »

Quote

Originally posted by gtc
You could check out Eagle at Dandenong:

http://www.eagleautoparts.com.au/gmzz383_fastburn.htm

That looks like a crate motor and not a kit.

I was hoping it would be a lot cheaper to keep my original L46 and do a rebuild.

I myself know zip about rebuilding a motor, but the father in law has done quite a few and is offering his hours, however when it comes to performance stuff he just shrugs his shoulders and says that whatever I put in front of him he'll build.

demonx · « **Reply #6 on:** June 27, 2009, 08:20:13 AM »

Quote

Originally posted by mick
i had mine done at come. (original motor numbers matching)

i had problems with it after i got it back, & they were pricks to me.

But in the end they supplied new parts for the damaged one's and i (with some good help) fitted em.

This is what I'm wanting. To keep the original motor and rebuild.

Just wondering what problems you speak of (have I missed an old thread?)

How much of your old motor was re-usable and what wasn't any good for the 383?

demonx · « **Reply #7 on:** June 27, 2009, 10:24:28 AM »

Mick - PM sent

TPI-383 · « **Reply #8 on:** June 27, 2009, 08:15:09 PM »

I agree with silver 1,build your own engine that way you know what parts are in it. I have heard some horror stories that I wont go in to too many details but parts charged for not in the engine, cheap parts instead. I am building my 383 tpi stroker myself and it has not cost a fortune to build a bottom end that will take 800+ hp. Check out summit racing online, I got most of my stuff there except the crankshaft because shipping and exchange rates were too high on that. Only paid $900 for the crank here and its forged 4340 5.7 inch stroke for late mod block.Cast is much cheaper but not as strong,depends how fast your wallet is. I am aming at 600+ hp so I went forged. I have a program for the pc that helps predict what power you will get,it says its within 3%.Its crane cams desktop dyno if you want to run a couple of combinations send me your specs and I will run them for you and give you the results, it gives you a full graph. I have done a few for mates and it has been close.You need everything but even cam specs and carby cfm, head type, valve size,rod length,comp ratio and header type and exhaust. Its a lot to put in esp. the cam specs but it gives the best results when you do. Takes a bit of the guess work out of it.

WARFARIN · « **Reply #9 on:** June 27, 2009, 09:32:32 PM »

Be careful, very careful!
Many kits are nothing more than imported recycled garbage!
You will get what you pay for!
Building an high performance engine is not the expertise of the weekend mechanic!
A quality crankshaft bearing [or conrod or cam shaft] will still need to be blued and seated for it's application.
There are "Mechanics" and there are "Mechanics" Those that know there limitations use a specialist engine builder.
If your "InLaw" is up with the program. blueing bearings won't be alien to him/her?
The easy stuff is ARP bolts, Melling oil pump etc etc,
To go 383 is crank and rods and pistons??
Now are the heads up to the expectation??
What do you want out of this "mouse"? [Mine is a mouse also]
RWHP??

demonx · « **Reply #10 on:** June 28, 2009, 01:43:58 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by WARFARIN
Be careful, very careful!
Many kits are nothing more than imported recycled garbage!
You will get what you pay for!
Building an high performance engine is not the expertise of the weekend mechanic!
A quality crankshaft bearing [or conrod or cam shaft] will still need to be blued and seated for it's application.
There are "Mechanics" and there are "Mechanics" Those that know there limitations use a specialist engine builder.
If your "InLaw" is up with the program. blueing bearings won't be alien to him/her?
The easy stuff is ARP bolts, Melling oil pump etc etc,
To go 383 is crank and rods and pistons??
Now are the heads up to the expectation??
What do you want out of this "mouse"? [Mine is a mouse also]
RWHP??

To answer all your questions - I really don't know. I know pretty much nothing when it comes to engines, but I'm keen to learn.

As far as the "cheapo" kits on ebay etc you're warning me away from, I'm probably better off leaving my L46 as it is!

I'm still Keen to find out more about 383's and if it's a practicle/affordable mod or if I'm aiming too high.

Scott · « **Reply #11 on:** June 29, 2009, 01:36:11 PM »

If you are after torque rather than HP, I know of a virgin bore 4-bolt 400 short motor for sale. My old man bought it to stuff into his HQ tonner, but hasn't got the money to build it, and he's now selling the car. My car has a 400 in it as well. It definitely sounds/feels tougher than your average 350 when you give it a rev, even with a super quiet exhaust on the car, although I think it might be a stock truck motor as it feels very lazy to drive. It puts on the speed really well, but it's not neck breaking, so you don't really notice it unless you are staring at the speedo.

demonx · « **Reply #12 on:** June 29, 2009, 03:36:55 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by Scott
If you are after torque rather than HP, I know of a virgin bore 4-bolt 400 short motor for sale.

Sounds good - but I want to stick to the original motor as it's numbers matching.

silver1 · « **Reply #13 on:** June 29, 2009, 09:40:54 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by demonx
Quote
Originally posted by Scott
If you are after torque rather than HP, I know of a virgin bore 4-bolt 400 short motor for sale.

Sounds good - but I want to stick to the original motor as it's numbers matching.

me to, mate I wen't for 383 style because i wanted more torque nothing wrong with a good 350 and a lot of people rather the 327.
it is what you like and if you have a collectable model just freshin it up and you'll be happy [for now]

WARFARIN · « **Reply #14 on:** July 01, 2009, 10:34:15 PM »

Demonx,
I also am not an expert. You should be able to build a strong motor with what you have. Mine was L48 which was at the lowest HP ratings of all time for Corvettes. You will need to see what elements of your L46 are good or can be modified? Presumeably it is a four bolt block? It has the engine number so everything else is up for grabs! Of course cast iron verses alloy heads is a give away if you are talking NCRS? I got a book from the USA about small block chevs and basically it said if your combustion chamber looks like photo "A" forget it! Which mine did and they had already been fully recond! So they are gone and Dart Alloy in place. You can do a lot with the standard heads [not L48], various inlet monifolds, carb selection and cam. The 400 truck motors discussed will be products of the cam, carb and porting. You can tune them to "pull stumps" or you can tune them to rev "like there is no tomorrow" The book I got has some recommendations for 400 blocks. It's a fine line between driver and engine! A 500HP 350 at 7000rpm might be great at the drag strip but totally unsuited to daily driver? 300HP at 5500rpm at a bucketload of torque might be way better?
There must be an engine guru in your neck of the woods that could give you some advice??
Cheers

87Z51 · « **Reply #15 on:** July 07, 2009, 10:12:42 PM »

Check out Pavtek
4 Gipps Court, Epping
Melbourne
www.pavtek.com.au

Stroker kits with quality parts under $2500
Forged SRP pistons , forged steel 4340 crank and H beam rods

http://www.google.com.au/url?q=http://www.pavtek.com.au/index.php%3Foption%3Dcom_content%26task%3Dview%26id%3D19%26Itemid%3D33&ei=zDlTSs3RIIT8tQOL-NmOBw&sa=X&oi=smap&resnum=1&ct=result&cd=2&usg=AFQjCNGbVMhwTd9OVZt1qiXk2ornM681SA

Then find a shop that knows how to put a engine together properly.As stated problem is with a 383 you really want some decent heads to let it breath properly.

Question still is ; what do you want to do with engine?
A hot rebuild of your original 350 may get you what you want.

demonx · « **Reply #16 on:** July 08, 2009, 06:27:09 AM »

Just looking at the link above makes me wonder if there is much diffrence between a 383 and a 395 stroker, as in what other components and machining is required.

87Z51 · « **Reply #17 on:** July 08, 2009, 10:16:12 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by demonx
Just looking at the link above makes me wonder if there is much difference between a 383 and a 395 stroker, as in what other components and machining is required.

Longer stroke on 396 means more block clearance work needed especially down on the pan rails and need to run small base circle cam for rod clearance.
Probably want to set up to a 210 head as well to make the most from the extra ci.

http://www.karl-ellwein.org/2005engineprojects/388project.htm

reserved · « **Reply #18 on:** July 08, 2009, 11:40:22 PM »

;49 ;49 ;49

If you are keen to have a matvhing numbers engine I would consider what I would do if the engine is modified to a 383 and a bearing explodes ;38or the rods fail ;38. I would save my numbers engine and look to buy a second hand block and build it from there.

:x

silver1 · « **Reply #19 on:** July 09, 2009, 08:35:53 AM »

Quote

Originally posted by reserved
I would save my numbers engine and look to buy a second hand block and build it from there.

:x

;51