Restoration & Modification Projects > Modification Projects
My Black Bitza
wabco40:
Hi Scott,
How far can you jack the back of the box up before it touches the tunnel?
Also is the bottom of the floor parallel with the cross member or is it sagging in the middle?
Scott:
The floor looks pretty much parallel with the x-member. I remember you put the rubber blocks in your to lift the floor. I can probably lift the rear 5-10mm, and drop the engine 5mm. I should be able to lift up the front of the diff a little too. I called it a day after the box was bolted in and watched the last 10 laps fro the comfort of the couch. Tonight I'll pump up the rear tyre and accurately measure the angles with the anglemeter on my old nokia phone.
Scott:
I just had a good look under the car. The floor seems to be parallel to the cross member, but it probably wouldn't hurt to place some rubber blocks to support it once the seats are back in with some bodies. There is about 15mm clearance above the gearbox so I should be able to lift that a decent amount. I'll fix the engine mounts first to get the front sitting down where it should be. I currently have spacers between the engine mount and block because things didn't line up properly. Now I have better access under there, I'll fix it properly.
Looking at the diff, shimming the front will drop the nose and make things worse. If I really get stuck I could reduce the thickness of the poly bush to lift the nose a little. I'll save that as a last resort.
bfit:
Put you trans member under yout original box with rubber mount etc and measure up to the centre line of the box, then you will have a reference to whete the new box should be.
Bfit
Scott:
I sold the old auto long ago, so that one won't work unfortunately.
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