Author Topic: BRAKE ROTORS (Read 6464 times)

reserved · « **on:** February 16, 2007, 12:51:06 PM »

;40

Has anyone had new rotors attached to the wheel hubs sucessfully with the OEM rivets, if yes who did it for you. I imagine it would have to be done with a hydraulic press and the correct dies.

;42

77CVT · « **Reply #1 on:** March 12, 2007, 02:52:20 PM »

Sorry no one has responded. I haven't heard of anyone getting them re-riveted. Any reason you wanted to do this?

72vet · « **Reply #2 on:** September 09, 2008, 06:37:34 PM »

Hi Reserved,

I’m curious on how you went with the rivets?

Just purchase a set of rotors, the supplier recommended that I rivet or bolt the new ones to my original hub assembly. Has anyone purchased new rotors & had to use their original hub assembly or did the new ones come fitted.

Demonex might answer this one.
;42

demonx · « **Reply #3 on:** September 09, 2008, 08:46:37 PM »

Any particular reason you want the riveted? It is unnecessary unless you're NCRS particular.

reserved · « **Reply #4 on:** September 09, 2008, 09:12:18 PM »

:{

Never found amyone that could install the rivets to specifications, so I just put it back together without rivets.

;50;50;50

demonx · « **Reply #5 on:** September 09, 2008, 09:49:41 PM »

Here's the ones I've just put on my current project... No rivets.

There's really no reason for them. The rotor is held in place by the studs, so its not going to spin, then you bolt a wheel onto it, so it's got no-where to go. The rivets are just a pain in the arse to remove and that's about it!

Do make sure you drill them out completely and knock of the cap on the inside too as you really don't want them bouncing around inside your park brake etc.

UNLESS you are trying to be NCRS specific, in which case they are needed.

72vet · « **Reply #6 on:** September 10, 2008, 07:55:01 PM »

Thanks Guys.

I understand where you’re coming from Demonx, but the hub assembly & rotor were designed to be fixed, instead of the rotor floating between the hub & rim.

I’m just fussy.

If I can get away with using Allen key head bolts with lock nuts instead of rivets it should make it less painful for the next guy.

;42

wayovermyhead · « **Reply #7 on:** September 11, 2008, 11:00:31 AM »

The hub/rotor assembly was not design to be fixed for performance based reasons. They where riveted on the assembly line in the factory for assembly purposes.
The only practical advantage they have today is dependant on how you dial them in for the tolerances we now now these brakes need to work properly.
It is critical to the performance of these brakes that when you install a new rotor you dial out any run out that is present. Some people choose to shim the rotor to reach acceptable levels (acceptable levels depends on who you talk too) If you do this, I have noticed sometimes the repeated removal of the wheel can rotate/compress/disturb the shims to the point where some trueness is lost eventually. If they where rivited this trueness of the rotor would be more accurately maintained.
What you should do and what was done at the factory and hence the need for rivets on the assembly line is actually have the disc machined on the hub to eliminate ALL run out. There are blokes who will come to your house and do this for a fair price.
The only other reason as previously mentioned is NCRS.

77CVT · « **Reply #8 on:** September 11, 2008, 12:19:47 PM »

Agree about machining them on the car. 3-4 thou is about the best you will get though. You'll never get zero.

Often it is the hub that needs machining but that requires a lot of mucking around. Easy to check with a dial indicator.