Technical Tips > Brakes, Suspensions, Steering, Wheels & Tyres

BRAKE ROTORS

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demonx:
Here's the ones I've just put on my current project... No rivets.

There's really no reason for them. The rotor is held in place by the studs, so its not going to spin, then you bolt a wheel onto it, so it's got no-where to go.  The rivets are just a pain in the arse to remove and that's about it!

Do make sure you drill them out completely and knock of the cap on the inside too as you really don't want them bouncing around inside your park brake etc.

UNLESS you are trying to be NCRS specific, in which case they are needed.

72vet:
Thanks Guys.

I understand where you’re coming from Demonx, but the hub assembly & rotor were designed to be fixed, instead of the rotor floating between the hub & rim.

I’m just fussy.  

If I can get away with using Allen key head bolts with lock nuts instead of rivets it should make it less painful for the next guy.


;42

wayovermyhead:
The hub/rotor assembly was not design to be fixed for performance based reasons. They where riveted on the assembly line in the factory for assembly purposes.
The only practical advantage they have today is dependant on how you dial them in for the tolerances we now now these brakes need to work properly.
It is critical to the performance of these brakes that when you install a new rotor you dial out any run out that is present. Some people choose to shim the rotor to reach acceptable levels (acceptable levels depends on who you talk too) If you do this, I have noticed sometimes the repeated removal of the wheel can rotate/compress/disturb the shims to the point where some trueness is lost eventually. If they where rivited this trueness of the rotor would be more accurately maintained.
What you should do and what was done at the factory and hence the need for rivets on the assembly line is actually have the disc machined on the hub to eliminate ALL run out. There are blokes who will come to your house and do this for a fair price.
The only other reason as previously mentioned is NCRS.

77CVT:
Agree about machining them on the car.  3-4 thou is about the best you will get though.  You'll never get zero.

Often it is the hub that needs machining but that requires a lot of mucking around.  Easy to check with a dial indicator.

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