Author Topic: posted on 1-1-1970 at 10:00  (Read 15383 times)

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Offline johnny86convert

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posted on 1-1-1970 at 10:00
« on: February 10, 2003, 10:27:19 PM »
anybody  got  any  ideas  on  how  to  check  if  mu  88  convertable  has a  Z51  or  (  special )  suspension  oftion  fitted?????????  would  appreciate  any  input...........

Offline Adam

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posted on 1-1-1970 at 10:00
« Reply #1 on: February 10, 2003, 10:38:56 PM »
Yea, look under the car...:22

Adam
1980 LG4 stock 305 running LPG.


I'm a highway staaaaaarrrr...

Offline johnny86convert

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posted on 1-1-1970 at 10:00
« Reply #2 on: February 11, 2003, 08:16:42 AM »
hey  rider  thats as  funny as a  stow  away  on a  columbia  space  mission,  lol,  but  to an  untechnical  vettester  like  me,  i  don,t  know  suspensions  like  the  difference  between  exhaust  tips  on a  71  as  to  a  73

Offline 77CVT

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posted on 1-1-1970 at 10:00
« Reply #3 on: February 11, 2003, 09:37:31 AM »
Sorry JH, you're outta luck.  Apparently no verts had the Z51.  

Check these threads out.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=288070
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=307736

:(

Offline rebel

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posted on 1-1-1970 at 10:00
« Reply #4 on: February 11, 2003, 10:40:18 AM »
Nice one 77cvt .... also try this chart fyi ...

http://www.zr1.net/ZR1_suspension.html

Offline 77CVT

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posted on 1-1-1970 at 10:00
« Reply #5 on: February 11, 2003, 11:29:22 AM »
Hey!  That's what I was looking for in the 1st place.  I couldn't find it in my archive.

Offline Vette Obsessed

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posted on 1-1-1970 at 10:00
« Reply #6 on: February 11, 2003, 12:45:26 PM »
Check under your centre console door JH.

If you have the original console door lid on the car there will be a sticker there with a whole bunch of numbers on it.

From memory, the closest thing to a heavy duty suspension option fitted by the factory on an 88 convertible would be a Z52 suspension.  Check the codes for 88 in the suspension chart link provided by rebel and have a look for a corresponding number under your centre console door (ie: Z51, Z52, etc).

Hope this helps.
"Life's tough.  It's tougher when you're stupid"

Offline johnny86convert

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posted on 1-1-1970 at 10:00
« Reply #7 on: February 11, 2003, 02:12:23 PM »
thank  you  all  for  the  input  and  that  great  vette  site  thats  gone  in  my  favourites,  seems  like  the  Z51  sus  is  for man/trans  and  the  Z52  is  for  maybe  any  others,  now  down  to  finding  if  mines  Z52  or  just  plain  old  norm  vettester........................appreciate  your  help  gang

Offline rebel

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posted on 1-1-1970 at 10:00
« Reply #8 on: February 11, 2003, 06:06:52 PM »
.... that's why we're here mate ;laugh

Offline johnny86convert

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posted on 1-1-1970 at 10:00
« Reply #9 on: February 11, 2003, 08:02:58 PM »
REBEL &  WHITE KNIGHT  nice  to  have  friends  around  to  help  with  the  vettester  problemo's,  hope  you  are  going  to  canberra,  my  shout  first  ok

Offline johnny86convert

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posted on 1-1-1970 at 10:00
« Reply #10 on: February 12, 2003, 08:10:30 AM »
still  looking  for  what  is  actually  the  difference  between  Z51  and  Z52,  pretty  sure  mine  is  52?????????????????in  88  over  16,000  vettes  had  this  option  fitted.those  corvette  specification  sites  are  really  informative

Offline Vette Obsessed

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posted on 1-1-1970 at 10:00
« Reply #11 on: February 12, 2003, 05:44:23 PM »
From memory, for 88 Z52's most of the differences were suspension related (ie: sway bar types & diameters, spring rates & possibly steering rack ratio (which most likely goes out the window once you get it converted anyway)).

Z52 should also give you:
* An extra radiator fan
* 17" wheels with 245/40ZR17 tyres all round
* An extra oil cooler (definitely an engine oil cooler but I don't think a power steering cooler was in there on Z52's).

When I get home tonight and have a chance I will check and post here if nobody beats me to it. :22

An 88 tidbit to keep you going...
* With all 88's you get the first year without the seperate handbrake assembly inside your rear brake assembly (easier to adjust, less parts, etc).  All 88+ handbrakes work off the main caliper and disc - not off an internal assembly like previous years.
"Life's tough.  It's tougher when you're stupid"

Offline johnny86convert

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posted on 1-1-1970 at 10:00
« Reply #12 on: February 12, 2003, 05:50:13 PM »
v.o.  thanks  mate  for  the  info,  further  into  vette  mania  mine  is  no 22363  of  the  year  built  so  hopefully  they  started  getting  it  right,  also  if  you  buy  those  great  looking door  sill  crome  cover  thingamejiggies (  lol )  is  there  much  trouble  putting  them  on  on  the  side  where  the  hand  brake  has  moved  to?????.  just  ordered a  build  sheet  from  the  museum

Offline johnny86convert

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posted on 1-1-1970 at 10:00
« Reply #13 on: February 12, 2003, 05:52:32 PM »
VO  do  you  know  much  about  performance  chips  and  price  and  headaches???  ask  a  lot  of  questions  don't  I    B>S>

Offline rebel

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posted on 1-1-1970 at 10:00
« Reply #14 on: February 12, 2003, 08:51:48 PM »
Quote
ask a lot of questions don't I


JH, I wouldn't worry about that, VO loves that he has another C4'er to play with ... :22:22

Offline Vette Obsessed

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posted on 1-1-1970 at 10:00
« Reply #15 on: February 13, 2003, 12:28:32 AM »
Better to ask alot of questions than to not ask any in my opinion.

I haven't tried to put the sill cover plates on my car so I can't comment about how they fit on a converted car.

RPO Z52 included RPO's V01, B4P, KC4, FG3, fast steering ratio, and 17x9.5-inch wheels.  RPOZ52 was available with coupes or convertibles.  It was also available with manual or automatic transmission.

V01 - heavy duty radiator
B4P - Radiator boost fan
KC4 - Engine oil cooler
FG3 - Delco Bilstein shock absorbers


Here are some other letters & numbers that you might find on the underside of that console door:
UU8 - Delco-Bose AM-FM Stereo system with casette
NN5 - California emission requirements
MM4 - 4-speed manual transmission
G92 - performance axle ratio (3.07:1)
D74 - Illuminated driver vanity mirror
DL8 - twin remote heated mirrors (convertible only)
C68 - Electronic Air Conditioning control
AR9 - Base seats, leather
AQ9 - Sports seats, leather
AC3 - Power driver seat


I think the paint code for black in 88 is 41.
and the grey interior codes are:
902 - leather, gray (US spelling - not mine)
same code applies to base leather & sport leather

Note for any lurkers out there: some of these codes are year specific, some are not.
"Life's tough.  It's tougher when you're stupid"

Offline Vette Obsessed

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posted on 1-1-1970 at 10:00
« Reply #16 on: February 13, 2003, 12:46:12 AM »
Quote
Originally posted by johnnyholmes.86 convert
v.o.  thanks  mate  for  the  info,  further  into  vette  mania  mine  is  no 22363  of  the  year  built  so  hopefully  they  started  getting  it  right,  


Sorry buddy but I heard they only started to get things right from 22364.  I understand 22363 was built on a Friday afternoon before a long weekend when they were having union problems...(j/k);laugh

My opinion on chips is to not bother with getting one unless your car is highly modified.  The GM chip has a pretty good scope for "learning" and adjusting accordingly for alot of the common bolt-on mods.  You may optimise what you have now by a few hp by just doing a chip but in my opinion it isn't very economical on a horsepower per dollar ratio.  Personally, I would only do a chip if I knew I was done with any modifications to the car mechanically or if it was so heavily modified it needed a chip to run properly.

Most generic chips are designed for a specific combination.  If you don't happen to have that exact combination on your car you may not gain anything - you may even lose power.  If you have to get a chip I would have a custom prom burned locally by someone who will run your car on a dyno and tune the chip accordingly.  Last time I heard you would be looking at paying between $800-$1600 to get this done.  (Subject to who does the work, how long it takes and what their costs/proft margin is...)

Just my opinion.

You can tell I don't have a chip yet, can't you? ;)

If anyone feels differently, lets hear it.  I know there are different opinions out there.
"Life's tough.  It's tougher when you're stupid"

Offline 77CVT

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posted on 1-1-1970 at 10:00
« Reply #17 on: January 01, 1970, 10:00:00 AM »
"My opinion on chips is to not bother with getting one unless your car is highly modified. The GM chip has a pretty good scope for "learning" and adjusting accordingly for alot of the common bolt-on mods. You may optimise what you have now by a few hp by just doing a chip but in my opinion it isn't very economical on a horsepower per dollar ratio. Personally, I would only do a chip if I knew I was done with any modifications to the car mechanically or if it was so heavily modified it needed a chip to run properly.

Most generic chips are designed for a specific combination. If you don't happen to have that exact combination on your car you may not gain anything - you may even lose power. If you have to get a chip I would have a custom prom burned locally by someone who will run your car on a dyno and tune the chip accordingly. Last time I heard you would be looking at paying between $800-$1600 to get this done. (Subject to who does the work, how long it takes and what their costs/proft margin is...)

Offline c5d

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posted on 1-1-1970 at 10:00
« Reply #18 on: September 07, 2003, 02:15:28 AM »
For all of you '81 & ups who would like to know what options your car was built with, check out

https://www.corvettemuseum.com/library-archives/build_sheets/index.shtml

for ordering a copy of the build sheet.  

C'ya
D

Offline Stingraynut

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posted on 1-1-1970 at 10:00
« Reply #19 on: September 07, 2003, 06:54:49 PM »
If the fillings have fallen out of your teeth, you have Z51.

If the fillings have started falling out you have Z52

What I would like to know is if there is a ‘standard’ spring ie a Z53 or is Z52 standard ? In which case, on that scale, I wouldn’t mind finding a Z57.

I’ve been reading about some shock absorbers that sense a sudden jarring, around 1.5g and release fluid for 15 milliseconds or whatever to make the suspension smoother – anyone know about this ?

Those tyre sizes from Vette Obsessed – it should be 275 (x 40 x 17) not 245

S’nut