conversion

[JP]

While I'm converting my 76 from LH drive to RH drive I would also like to convert it from auto to manual. Has any one done this and what was involved. Did you use the original parts or use an old Holden 4 speed? I have had a price from the states $1600 US  just for the parts, then plus freight, rebuild the box and so on. Just interested if someone has done it with parts avalible here and what the parts were.

Thanks James

[TIPPA]

Hi JP. Manual conversion shouldn't be a problem at all. I wouldn't look to the states for parts but would look local instead- after all the engine and gearboxes are common here!
When you say an "old Holden 4speed", i certainly wouldn't be considering an Aussie 4speed M21 which are the original 'boxes for our C3s embarrassingly enough (broke too many of those behind a warm 253 i had...) but a Muncie (M22) with chev bolt pattern bellhousing would bolt straight up as i believe they are identical externally and will be the stronger option, or a toploader will be better in handling big HP (bellhousings to suit will be easy to find- i'd call Dellow). I'm sure others will be able to offer more info on shifter, tailshaft and pedal box side of things. Blank off your radiator's trans cooler fittings, fit a manual center console bezel/shifter boot, hook up your reverse light wiring and you are away!
Just remember the offset transmission tunnel will really restrict the fitting of the extra pedal!
:22
Just noted that one of our member's vettes has a sign saying it's M21 'box is a muncie. It's been a while since i was swappin' gearboxes regularly, but i'm still pretty sure an M20= 6cyl Aussie 4sp, M21= V8 Aussie 4sp, and M22= Muncie.

[JP]

Thanks for the info Tippa,  Dellow are around the corner from where i work, and I have spoken to them. They can supply all the parts except the pedals and they just wanted to know what gearox I had. So Now I need to get he trading post and let my fingers do the walking I would rather get the box then get the other bits.

Does someone have a box they dont need that needs reconditioning?

[TIPPA]

Just thought of one last small thing you will need to sort out... Speedo drive gear. You can work out with your wheel/tyre size and diff ratio what drive gear you will need. Most accessory places should stock a decent range and they are not expensive at all. I know with M21s they are colour co-ordinated to make things easier... like a blue gear may have 22 teeth and a white 24 for example. Muncies may very well be the same. If you are thinking of going down the muncie path, keep an eye out for a Muncie "ROCKCRUSHER". Given that name i believe due to the sounds it makes when changing gears- crushing rocks ;39 it is a stronger version. May be hard to find these days as they are getting old but worth considering if you can get one at the right price! From memory a few years back my M21 was around $500 to fully recondition incl. strengthening with an extra circlip on the input shaft (i think...) so a muncie may be similar money to reco. A few phone calls will determine that anyway.
Another alternative would be a Saginaw gearbox, however from memory they weren't as strong as a muncie, and were used behind early Holdens with 327 chevs, like HT etc. However i believe the Muncie is the pick of the two and as i mentioned a Rockcrusher would be even better if you didn't want to step up to a toploader (or "Bullnose" toploader which is an even stronger but unnecessary version).
Good luck!;-)

[White88]

Just something to consider , the later model V8 5 - 6 speed's are pretty strong and have the over drive to help out on  the freeway.

[87Z51]

"Aussie 4speed M21 which are the original 'boxes for our C3s"
If your C3 came with a Aussie 4 spd you got ripped off.

"M20= 6cyl Aussie 4sp, M21= V8 Aussie 4sp,
and M22= Muncie."

GM USA use the same no to identify Muncies ;
The M-20 wide ratio,
the M-21 close ratio,
the M-22, Extra heavy duty close ratio"

The Australian GM  manuals were never used in US cars, Muncies , Saginaw and B/W T10 and Super T10 were OEM GM trans.

Given the cost /availability of OE type 4 speeds in Oz (Muncies were last used in '74 so old technology), the above suggestion to use a V8 5 spd would be the better option.

Very little difference in size/ installation , readily available/ cheaper and far superior shift mechanism as all internal , not external linkage.

If you are prepared to risk explusion from the club ,Dellow and others  makes several kits to put "Japanese" 5 spds behind Chevs .The Supra box is very popular as a V8 conversion and well up to handling the Hp of a street smallblock.

FWIW the Super T10 used after '75 (the 4 spd in the C4
4 +3 box ) is generally considered to be stronger than a M22 without the noise.

Watch "Two Lane Blacktop " and listen to the noise the gearbox in the  '55 Chev makes , not a comfortable street trans

[87Z51]

Just what you want

http://www.nswcorvettes.com.au/forum/viewthread.php?tid=2699

[L71]

I HAVE A MANUAL i WANT TO MAKE INTO AN AUTO
IF YOU STILL HAVEN,T DONE THE CHANGE LET ME KNOW, WE CAN SWAP 0407012359

[Cameron 77C3]

FYI (For Your Own Info)

You might be better to u2u JP as this thread was started back in November of last year.

It always pays to check the post date of a thread as you may be replying to a subject that is long dead and buried.

You also have a U2U that I have sent you.

If I can assist in any way, please do not hesitate to contact me either here or by phone on 0418 674 441.  We live fairly close to each other.

Cam
Forum Admin ;42

[Cameron 77C3]

L71  I have u2u Jp for you as requested on the phone.  He has no other contact details listed in his profile so thats all I can do for you at the moment.

Cam

[JP]

Hay guys I'm still around, I will call John tomorrow. Still rebuilding the car bit by bit. Motors in, fired it up a week or 2 ago, can't wait to get the radiator in so I can run it for longer, those radiator supports rust out easy, I have had to fabricate the entire bottom of it. nearly finished it.