Technical Tips > Post 84
C4 1987 and the Smell of Leaking Fuel.
sirfixalot:
Doug the copper pipe is the vacuum feed to the brake booster, looks like yours has been shortened in conversion mine has a bracket on rear of head with a bolt in it which is a bugger to get in and out. From memory getting the plug and clip off 9th injector is a pain. No experience taking out injector, Have you checked the fuel regulator diaphragm hasn't split running rough is a symptom of this as fuel is sucked into vacuum side of diaphragm which then dumps extra fuel into motor. Try removing vacuum hose from regulator to see if fuel present, also can put vacuum pump onto it to see if it holds vacuum.I believe you can't remove the regulator without removing the plenum
Vettech:
Yes! Thats about right, now waiting for a cooler day, so I can pull the thing down, and whilst I understand your direction of a split in the diaphram - i'm not allowing that.
On another tact, Bill Mavramatis was kind enough to return my calls regarding the Fly wheel/ harmonic balancer.
Many moons ago (20yrs worth) the Flywheel retaining bolt came out of the crank, the Fw was kept in place by the sepentine belt and the bolt was kept in place by the crossmember, how long this situation was going for - I dont know, but when I saw it, my blood pressure dropped thru the floor. Anyway a full repair was effected by Bill at Bills Car Care at Marrickville.
But for some reason (inc other mechanics) I now have a Dizzy not square across the engine - and it should be.
Bill confirmed that the repair put the Fw back onto it's keyed position on the crank, Dizzy could be one tooth out.
So! I have no excuse not to pull the Dizzy, maybe when done, it will be square once again, and the crossfire of #1 or #2 leads to the manifold will be resolved.
sirfixalot:
I checked out my fuel reg the other day I figured if diaphragm was defective it wouldn't hold vacuum. Was as easy as hooking up pump to vacuum side it pulled down to 30 without any problem.Your car has all symptoms for defective fuel reg. Have you checked for fault codes on computer? Maybee just check before you dive in head first. Cant see how o ring would leak /tear when nothing moves and it is encapsulated in manifold.
Vettech:
Yes I agree - how does one "Oring" give up, ergo when will the others ?
Anyway, see pics, removed leads, then Dizzy cap, then brake booster vac line.
The tube nut was ~19mm, but fitting was ~20mm, short of making a very thin open ender, I could not break the nut away from the gland and as a result, I kept unwinding untill the whole assy came clear, then with plenty of room I used a shifter & 19mm open ender on the tube nut.
Oh! P.S - I did switch on the ignition, when I had a clear view - and fuel came straight out of the pipe seal.
Vettech:
Pic.
I was surprized I had enough space to get this apart. I also had issues getting the Dizzy cap as the fourth (4th) cap screw was in behind the fire wall rubber seal, where is one of those bendy 1/4" extensions when you need it - in this mess somewhere.
Now to get seals and maybe lash out to get correct tools - then re-align the Dizzy.
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