Wanted: L98 Oil Cooler Pipes.

[Vettech]

The L98 option KC4 is a donut style oil cooler fitted between block and original oil filter.

Part of the water circuit is via rubber hose, some I can buy ex US, but a bit around front of engine is metal tube.

If anyone has this in any condition that they dont want or are prepared to loan me so I can get it replicated, it would be very much appreciated.

Please let me know, can pick up, travel or pay post, what ever required.

Last resort will be US Wrecker - of course the postage will be the "nail"......

[bfit]

Ring Phill at corvette connection seaford
He will most likely have the part

[Vettech]

From what I see and hear - he's closed. I cant open the web site.

[bfit]

I’ll text you his number tomorrow

[sabre]

Vette Connection number (Phil) is 0413 966 511).
I did have the pipe you are looking for but I cut it in two to make a new line for my '88. BTW it doesn't go around the front, it goes down behind the fuel lines and across in front of the sump. The original fouls the steering shaft after conversion. Still have the 'tricky' bit that snakes behind the fuel lines if you want a sample. Bad news is it is aluminium which is a bit tricky to bend and a problem to weld. You can make it in copper but that introduces corrosion problems or thin walled steel would be OK as long as you keep up the inhibitor/coolant.
From memory (which is not that good any more) your '87 is a mirror conversion which means the genuine pipe will still need modification. The line you're talking about also returns the heater which is now on the left (with the oil cooler).
To get yourself on the road you could simply eliminate the cooler (they don't work well anyway), put the bigger oil filter on (Z-24) and just run a hose around the front for your heater. Put a small 'T' at the heater core outlet to connect the bleed line.

[Vettech]

Where have you been.!?!?!?!..

Bfit gave me Phills # at Vette Conection Seaford.

Rang at 1230hrs Wed 14th he called me back when he verified he had the part.
Part arrived 1030hrs Fri 16th, actual final charge was less than quoted. I'm very happy with service.

Yes the fitting will be an issue, I need to change ALL rubber pipes on the car - they are a bit crispy.
And most likely the Water pump.

After looking at Geoff Eatons car  - I feel immeasurably better - maybe not even depressed any more.

Still interested in the Comodore set up , so when you get back Bfit we can talk about looking at yours.

[Vettech]

Oh the trick with bending pipe  you can.
1. use heat.
2. use bending spring.
3. use the special device.
4. sometimes fill tube with fine sand and compact before bending. best use a spring here as well.

And yes a Mirror, maybe bypass heater (not required ?!?!) but will need to think thru the new water ccts, definitely replacing the 5/8 nipple in the block and re-establish original water cct.
The Oil Cooler is still in good condition- and I have a ship load of short filters. You know I hate to throw anything away.

Regards.

[sabre]

Tried option 1,2&4 without success on aluminium tube. Bought option 3. TIG welding thin wall tube was my problem. Final product needs a 'T' and a 3/8" inlet.

[bfit]

Yes buy a  mandrel tool a plumbers one will,do the job .
Is the pipe 3/4 od

[Vettech]

Thanks for putting the Kybosh on me Gazza.

Tried all ways of getting it in to no avail.

Nearly goes in from underneath but gap between sump and cross member (spring) is only 1/2".

Ummm options.
1. Drop sump (probably opens even more cans of worms).
2. Undo front engine mounts - raise engine 1/2 - 1".
3  Remove remainder of gear (Alt/P/S pump) from front of engine and try from that side.

Pipe should sit under the front edge of sump, should not have issues with S/rack (I think-- plenty of space)...
Ummm tied, hot, but I just need to think of other C4 owner friends who have BIGGER issues than mine and my depression just fads away.
Regards.

[Vettech]

Guys - Question.

If a piece of wood is used to spread weight, would the sump tolerate being jacked up to raise engine 1/2 ~ 1".

Tks.

[Vettech]

Whilst looking it became obvious that to get the pump off, alt and P/steer needs to come off.

Any way the pipe route for the H/pres side of the power steer pump is just horrible , loops back to within 1/2 of exh manifold.

This is ridiculouse as it has a crimped end and a screwed metal bend into the pump. This bend/fitting could have been changed to loop forward away from the heat, reduced the amount of unessecary hoses, and tidied things up. If need be a call to Pertek might be on the cards.

I still may have to lift motor, no ideas out there!?.