Author Topic: 85 L98 Smog pump delete  (Read 5439 times)

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Offline Redvette85

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85 L98 Smog pump delete
« on: December 10, 2017, 02:21:40 PM »
Hi all,
I've removed my smog pump and wondering what you guys used to plug off exhaust manifold? Plumbing cap? If so what size is it?
Thanks

Offline Vettech

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Re: 85 L98 Smog pump delete
« Reply #1 on: March 30, 2018, 08:08:10 PM »
I'd like to do the same on my 87, appears many are reticent to advise, since removal contravenes the rules, but it appears a lot change over to after market extractors which dont have the AIR tubes. The small tubes are S/S,  Bfit thinks they can be plugged or cut off and brazed up. Welding or brazing too close to the cast iron exh manifold is fraught with dangers.
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Offline Ausrs

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Re: 85 L98 Smog pump delete
« Reply #2 on: May 01, 2018, 10:06:50 PM »
I cut mine down and got some short fat screws that went into the holes and added a bit of silicon,that was a temp fix until i pulled the manifolds off to weld up the holes and do a proper job,4 years later no leaks and the fat screws are still in place with no leaks
Mine is an 87

Offline Vettech

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Re: 85 L98 Smog pump delete
« Reply #3 on: May 02, 2018, 08:32:46 PM »
Yes, but the tubes are S/S whilst the manigold is cast, I believe much care must be taken if the tubes are cut off flush, since cracking etc can result when trying to weld them. Leaving then on with all the interconnecting hoses, pipes etc looks odd.
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Offline Vettech

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Re: 85 L98 Smog pump delete
« Reply #4 on: September 11, 2020, 04:15:40 PM »
Just a resurection for this subject

I'm putting my 87 back together and the EGR & SMOG pump look like a cluttering mishmash.

Whilst the EGR can stay for now - my A.I.R pump has seized once after a wash, now stinks of WD40, a consensus of Youtubes seems to indicate the pump can be gutted and left in-situ (looks the part) but the solenoids, divertors, tubing etc could go.

Would make for a much cleaner looking engine. So the issue of the A.I.R tubes and pipes in and out of the manifold raises its ugly head again. What to do. I suppose what I'm asking - is: has any one who has done this had any issues at REGo time.???..

I suppose using a very small thin disc to cut off the tubes, leaving enough for a screw to screw in as a plug would be the way to go.
Any one out there done it differently - please let us know. P.S I dont want to change the manifold.

PPS - I'm not sold on the after market Smog pump replacement pulley Kit.
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Offline gtc

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Re: 85 L98 Smog pump delete
« Reply #5 on: September 11, 2020, 04:47:12 PM »
I can't speak for Vettes, but I've had experience with crappy EGR valves on Holden Barina sooting up and needing replacement too often.

The trick in that case was to place a thin piece of metal plate between the EGR and its mounting holes. (In fact there are now kits available to do it.)

The effect was to fool the ECU into thinking the EGR is working OK while having the EGR still physically in place for any nosey inspector.

Had to resort to this method because simply removing the EGR valve and capping off led to an unclearable ECU code and the engine running rough.
It's C3 chromie for me, see? Si!

Offline Vettech

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Re: 85 L98 Smog pump delete
« Reply #6 on: September 11, 2020, 06:04:33 PM »
Yes GTC some mods have strings attatched.

Maybe some others may chine in with their thoughts or ideas or what was done to their vehicle.
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Offline Vettech

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Re: 85 L98 Smog pump delete
« Reply #7 on: September 14, 2020, 05:41:57 PM »
So I bit the bullet and gutted the insides of the Smog pump.
I just need a big clean up and re-pack the grease in the bearings although the front bearing is a pressed sealed bearing a bit like the front one in alternators. I start very soon to re-fit everything on the front of this L98.
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Offline Vettech

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Re: 85 L98 Smog pump delete
« Reply #8 on: September 19, 2020, 06:39:36 PM »
The smog pump is "repaired" - makes no funny noises and is as smooth as silk.

After much ado - the metal pipe that feeds water down to the "KC4" oil cooler has been fitted, my original thoughts were that this pipe may have been damaged or bent, but after more research it appears to go in place at an angle where I thought it went square to the  sump. But not so, after much grease, swearing, more holes in the hands/arms letting the red transmission fluid out we have success.

The brackets & diecast carriers have been painted, water pump is fitted, KC4 fitted along with Oil filter, now for a scotch & coke & a shower.

Oh P.S the water actually feeds out of the block into KC4, into the pipe and up to the pumps side inlet port.

Next is the heater hoses etc etc.
P.P.S - some one said to me " you have a 90, why don't you look and compare so as to fix the 87" - that would be just too easy, but went and looked anyway, everything under and in front of the sump is different, the A.I.R divertors, cross member, forward facing sub-member lower radiator hose, possibly the rad sits lower and looks different.  Good suggestion, now back to reality.
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