Author Topic: 87 C4 Leaks - but different leaks. (Read 16255 times)

Vettech · « **on:** December 08, 2017, 03:03:01 PM »

My battery finally packed it in, i'd been looking for the same century battery as it has lasted many a year. Last monday replaced it, but it rained, water on passenger floor, unusualy close to centre console, went today for pink slip, more water on pas floor, but now has that typical coolant odour, sure enough appears to be drippng from heater assy and not the window/roof weather seals which I expected.

QUESTION:
any c4 owner had this issue?.
What was the cause?.
What was the cure?.

Cant get my head under, I dont have any clues as yet, any help muchly appreciated.

IN the short term I can go from the Oil cooler straight up to the front and bypass the heater matrix, but retain the Oil cooler.
Of course for me this is not a five minue job....... so back in the garage.

bfit · « **Reply #1 on:** December 08, 2017, 04:52:47 PM »

Try an onion better than leaks,

Vettech · « **Reply #2 on:** December 08, 2017, 09:19:19 PM »

Could be the onion is split.

Vettech · « **Reply #3 on:** February 08, 2018, 12:55:16 PM »

Ok. Passenger floor flooding, from A/C Heater matrix.

Water pipes come & go from places I cant see, but go thru Oil Filter cooler then heater, then out around between rad and front of engine, then under right manifold to only god knows where. (US visitors, car now RH drive - heater now on LH side)

Rubber has gone like stone, obviously needs replacing. Googled the Oil Cooler.

I have now discovered what the funny bolt looking thingo that is fitted into the LH side of block down near to Oil Filter. Looks like bolt with a dob of braze or weld on its top. Obviously another butcher job by the L-Right converters.
Seems this is the return water fitting and should have a funny shaped hose direct from it to the water jacket of the oil cooler.
The other side of the cooler goes off toooooo......... well not quiet sure.

Any help muchly appreciated. Also - whilst I love repairing things - if any one has a heater mattix to suit C4 ~ 87 plse let me know, I have feeling I'll need one.

Currently toying with the idea to rip the complete original A/C Matric and blower out, and try to fit an early GM Comodore, and just maybe get back the outside fresh air option that was original. I may have to visit you Bfit and look at that car, but I dont require a whole car.

bfit · « **Reply #4 on:** February 08, 2018, 12:56:40 PM »

Trade in on GT mustang.

bfit

Vettech · « **Reply #5 on:** February 08, 2018, 12:59:27 PM »

Nah one Mustang in the family is enough besides that Eco boost flies.

Vettech · « **Reply #6 on:** February 10, 2018, 12:24:02 PM »

Appears the other hose that disappears across under sump, up under manifold, up under compressor (c/w a 90° kink) then to maybe the water pump.

One cant really see in here, however, after much light applied, appears flywheel ? Has red/orange coating - ummm rust/leakage....

A quick fix (new hose+bypass heater) seems to be dissapearing in the mist.
Time to bite the bullit - the other alternative I cant find (1gal tin of petrol).

I need to now remove everything off the front of the engine, could require a pump etc etc.

I put some pics on our facebook site, the heater and oil cooler inlets have an in-ordinant amount of rusty muck in them.
With two hoses kinked, the flow was probably very slow, time enough for rust/corrosion to take hold

B's Mustang is starting to look very good..............

sabre · « **Reply #7 on:** February 12, 2018, 05:14:08 AM »

Had the same leak problem when I first got mine. Heater core rotton and split. Biggest mongrel of a job to replace because when they turn the heater over for the conversion the inner box ends up behind the dash sepport crossmember. Bypass is the way to go unless you really want the heater.
Pipe going "under the sump" goes to secondary water pump inlet. Hot water comes from inlet manifold which gives flow to FI plenum so you can't block the curcuit. Water for oil cooler is drawn from the bottom of the block and drawn into a "T' in the line to the secondary pump inlet. Done that way to heat the oil in ice and snow. Should also be a small line (about 3/8") coming from the rear of inlet manifold to the same line. Important to not block it as it stops airlock in the top of the engine.
If you do decide to bypass, beware the inlet and outlet are diffrent sizes. One is 3/4" and the other 5/8".
Good luck.

Vettech · « **Reply #8 on:** February 12, 2018, 11:39:24 AM »

Ahhhh just the person, yours is 87, do you still have all the AIR valves etc.??

O514 hrs !?!?!?

R u saying heater core comes out from inside not engine side.

Was considering removal and replace with older Comodore style.

Vettech · « **Reply #9 on:** February 12, 2018, 12:20:53 PM »

The block inlet, I thought was the water return after oil cooler, its been cut off.

Now I've got it apart, water seems to go, pump, oilcooler in, oil cooler out, heater in, heater out, then back around to pipes/fittings on RH side of runners/manifold at top of engine. And your right, there is a small metal tube runs from back of valley to the return pipe. In this cct there were two (2) 90° kinks in the hoses - flow would have been seriously impeded

I wonder if Corvette Qld would have still lying around any of the tubes, valves etc after their conversions, 5/8"ID rubber are bulky and dont bend too well.
There is also no heater water cut off, off course if there had been one in this cct, it would also cut off the oil cooler, and possibly negate your air bleed.

I know I'm being pedantic, I just want it as original as possible, a heater here in Oz is overkill, but when A/c running, is only way on flooded accumulator system to controll the outlet air temp.

Vettech · « **Reply #10 on:** February 12, 2018, 03:41:39 PM »

Just when you think that after a week of draining oil and water its empty, you then take of the "FC4" oil cooler off and remove whats left of the water spigot in the bottom of the block. Ummm now I have a bucket of "Woil". OMG Her Mustang is looking better every day.

Vettech · « **Reply #11 on:** March 12, 2018, 05:33:37 PM »

I cant get the two bolt/studs on the rh side of pump out. But after percussion (hammer), wd40 and finally today - heat, the top bolt moved and I got her out, so I tried on the bottom bolt, which has less access. Because they are long stud / bolts, I can only use a ring spanner, so more wd40, and the hammer.

Did you know the human hand has 27 bones, not my left hand, I'm sure it now has about 30 odd and as soon as the pain goes away I'll be able to count up the new ones.

One more hit - OMG it moved, great, Oh but look! for some reason the PS pump and bracket have dropped - I'm sure it still had a 14mm bolt down under holding it in place. BUGGER, the Power steer pump frame has broken, a bit is still attached to the face of the block c/w 14mm bolt, appears me hitting the ringy has caused the pump to rotate - possibly hitting the p/s frame and transferring the percussion into the frame.

I've now removed the 14mm and broken alloy frame bit, a close examination of the break face clearly shows it was already cracked/broken thru for some time.
I now need another P/steering mounting frame - does any body out there have one ? Let me know if you do.

The bolt is turning, so it is free in the block thread but siezed in the alloy water pump. This is not going well, time to spit the dummy and get a LONG 14mm socked that fits over the stud etc....... pain getting worse, time to give up for now.

bfit · « **Reply #12 on:** March 12, 2018, 06:15:42 PM »

doesn't sound correct ,
14MM chev 350 engine?!
are you saying 14mm hex IE 9/16" head, for a 3/8" bolt
have you got an impact wrench, a good tool to have is an impact screw driver ,
the adaptor of and there is a 1/2 drive they work well with difficult bolts
Bfit

Vettech · « **Reply #13 on:** March 12, 2018, 06:52:07 PM »

Bob this is a Corvette, worse than working on an Austin 1800.

There is no room, and untill this afternoon I had no LONG socket.

And stop being pedantic, between 9/16 and 14mm is a m/^%y hair. (Not to mention the shop only had metric in this configuration )

Now I have a loverly brand spanking new black chrome Long percussion 14mm socket.

And there is no room, or any way to get a percussion hammer in there. (And I'm not removing the radiator)
But the 2 1/2 pound engineers ballpien hammer handled deftly, gives a measured wack.

Anyway I've now found a very old tin of "release lube", copius spray will hopefully release the bolt thru the water pump over night, and tomorrow we will apply the MapGas torch, but the fuel lines being so close, makes for some excitement.

Oh! Just thinking as I was taking pain killers for my hand, I've already got a new water pump, if it dose'nt come off tomorrow, its the angle grinder!!!!!!!.

bfit · « **Reply #14 on:** March 12, 2018, 07:28:00 PM »

Mmm steel bolt, aluminium water pump housing + oxidation makes bolt difficult to remove
release Lub is that a KY product

Vettech · « **Reply #15 on:** March 12, 2018, 08:12:27 PM »

Yes - steel bolt thru alloy pump, threads screw into cast iron block, and above the "nut", a clean bolt shaft then goes thru the alloy A/C mounting frame, then the last threaded bit has washer and nut. Its a rod threaded each end with a nut "head" in approx the centre. Two of, one longer than the other. But both require a long socket, which also allowes the bolt to go thru. Some cheapo sockets only have a small hole thru them.

No the "Release Lube" is very old, inherited from my father, and he's been gone since ~ 2000.

MY081 · « **Reply #16 on:** March 12, 2018, 09:40:18 PM »

Mmmmm Mapgas Torch , Fuel Line !!!!! Should we be looking for a new Treasurer .

bfit · « **Reply #17 on:** March 12, 2018, 09:48:32 PM »

Insurance ? Job

bfit · « **Reply #18 on:** March 12, 2018, 09:49:19 PM »

I have an ls1 that would fit in there

Kenobe · « **Reply #19 on:** March 13, 2018, 06:03:42 AM »

Penetrene spray over night, a good hit on the head is possible or heat the nut and allow to cool, don't try to undo it hot.

And Bob what are you doing using KY?