Technical Tips > Engines - Carbies - Exhausts - Dissys

Melted accelerator cable outer

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MADLT1:
 02 4933 3960
carters clutch and brake
 119 Melbourne St
 East Maitland NSW 2323.....I had the same problem not long ago,but my cable was to long and it was to close to the header pipe,just take it out and take it to a clutch and brake service centre like the one up here in maitland,when replaceing your new one try to keep it away from things that may melt the cable,but in saying that the new cables that can be made today have very high heat resistant outers,evan braided metal lines can be made and that will solve the problem,but in saying all that your engine bay should not be reaching these temps,to fix that I would suggest fan shroud,hood rubber,fan plus thermos,s,wishbone rubber mats,frnt spoiler,headlight covers that sit behind the grill and the chassis to sill plates should be there,all this is desighned for the air to flow efficiently,allso check your thermostat and the radiator,is it a sealed unit or does it have an overflow?hope this helps

Vettech:
Yes very good advice, and I had forgotten about the hood seal, most important and often missing. Also if the engine is std, radiator ok, seals & rubbers ok, then it should run normal temps, if timing is out it could run hot, also even the smallest manofold leaks allow  super hot gas to cause heating and hot spots. And if today is an indication of weather to come, best get on top of it. Oh! And dont let people tell you all C3's are hot in the cab, it's not the norm, and is more than likely due to holes left unfilled in the fire wall (if converted) my 78 HAD 32 holes, no underfelt or ally heat shield. Even a 1/8th hole lets in a "thermal lance" of blazing hot air once the car moves forward. Merry Xmas.

bfit:

--- Quote from: Vettech on December 14, 2016, 11:48:47 AM ---Yes very good advice, and I had forgotten about the hood seal, most important and often missing. Also if the engine is std, radiator ok, seals & rubbers ok, then it should run normal temps, if timing is out it could run hot, also even the smallest manofold leaks allow  super hot gas to cause heating and hot spots. And if today is an indication of weather to come, best get on top of it. Oh! And dont let people tell you all C3's are hot in the cab, it's not the norm, and is more than likely due to holes left unfilled in the fire wall (if converted) my 78 HAD 32 holes, no underfelt or ally heat shield. Even a 1/8th hole lets in a "thermal lance" of blazing hot air once the car moves forward. Merry Xmas.

--- End quote ---

some truth in that said above.
my C3,has good reasons to run hot , but it doesn't. on the hottest days  and long runs inside the cab is reasonable.
Bfit

Vettech:
Since you are in the Gong, this may be of no help, but, "Attspeed Auto Instruments" in St Mary's do speedo's made to measure a call on 9833-0055 may help you get an accellerator cable.  But I'm sure the Gong would have a shop.

Vettech:
Oh! - I just reread, " clutch fan" - um!!!. I once saw a mechnic test a clutch fan, sheet of cardboard in front of radiator, system at temp, stop engine, grabs fan with rag by the hand, start engine, ( yes has fan in hand, engine running) pull out cardboard, then releases the fan and watch/listen for fan to change revs - I think that was the sequence. I cant fully remember, I was busy covering my face gainst possible blood and finger bits, but he quickly proved fan clutch was rs, replaced, and it was like a magic fix. Was on an EB Falcon six. So it could also be fan clutch. If it looks oily, the special oil may have leaked out, they dont contain very much.
They are cheap enough and easy to fit,

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