Author Topic: Right to Left Conversion #2 (Read 65261 times)

70vette · « **Reply #40 on:** December 02, 2016, 11:12:14 AM »

Quote from: rosco on December 01, 2016, 09:39:17 PM

Very good numbers from a street car got to be very happy with that.
Forgot to ask what's the rear gears you running this could be real fun.

Rosco

Am running 3.5s in the back with a Muncie. The boys tell me it might be a bit of a hand full if my driving gets to spirited

The words "Make sure the clutch is a good one keep ringing in my head"

Quote from: MY081 on December 01, 2016, 10:17:21 PM

Are you planning on getting it dynoed in the car , it would be very interesting to see what it comes out at the wheels .Ray

Need to finish the conversion and get it back on the road before anything like that but maybe in the future! I would say app 25% loss would come close though.

bfit · « **Reply #41 on:** December 02, 2016, 12:53:27 PM »

when it comes to clutches, I lean towards Centerforce clutchs.
worth a look when you buy a clutch,
Bfit

70vette · « **Reply #42 on:** December 02, 2016, 02:51:11 PM »

Quote from: Bfit on December 02, 2016, 12:53:27 PM

when it comes to clutches, I lean towards Centerforce clutchs.
worth a look when you buy a clutch,
Bfit

Allready running a Centerforce Clutch. Just tossing up whether to get a new clutch plate or just a whole new setup. Its doesn't have that many klm's on it. It had some heat spots on it and had a small shudder on take off but I blocked the pressure plate face down with some emery cloth and a block and the heat spots have dissapeared. Looks like I have machined the face. Didn't take much to clean it up. I'm thinking it should be ok. The plate still has plenty of meat left on it too.

70vette · « **Reply #43 on:** February 15, 2017, 08:49:35 PM »

Ok! Decided to get off my backside and get some work done. Thought I should do some work on it seeing I haven't touched it since Christmas decided to get a move on. My son keeps reminding that his year 10 formal will be on around September and he wants the car going in no uncertain terms.
Cut and made up some new spark plug leads on Saturday.
Ripped the dash and console out today.
All ready to dummy everything up.

sirfixalot · « **Reply #44 on:** February 18, 2017, 06:17:33 PM »

A good opportunity to insulate the firewall all the way up to the windscreen pain job but the end result is good

metalhead · « **Reply #45 on:** February 18, 2017, 06:36:34 PM »

Missed the dyno sheets before, looks good!

70vette · « **Reply #46 on:** February 18, 2017, 10:28:24 PM »

Quote from: sirfixalot on February 18, 2017, 06:17:33 PM

A good opportunity to insulate the firewall all the way up to the windscreen pain job but the end result is good

I'm going to insulate the firewall but not sure if I should go with the factory style felt and insulation or get some Dynamat. Interested to hear if anyone has done this before and whag kind of results they got.

bfit · « **Reply #47 on:** February 19, 2017, 05:44:22 AM »

Dynamat the inside firewall and floor/Tracy tunnel ( dynamat 10465 will do the complete inside of the vette 9 of 48''x 24'' sections )
And do the under floor,trans tunnel, lower firewall with DEI-050502
I got good results with the above
Bfit

sirfixalot · « **Reply #48 on:** February 19, 2017, 09:20:17 AM »

My 78 is insulated with a high density foam 10mm thick with aluminium foil backing works great. Foam is similar to the expansion joint material they use in concrete is available from bunnings & clarke rubber about 2.5 m does a C3. I have patterns for the floor

rosco · « **Reply #49 on:** February 19, 2017, 04:54:45 PM »

Dyna matted all of the car interior with 10465 just a Bfit stated then used the factory installation on the under dash area. Used a very good carpet insulation on the rest of the floor before the carpet.
This installation had a aluminum backing to it. Took some time but very happy with result.
Still have a little heat coming from the long tube headers as they only sit a about 1/2" from the floor near the transmission tunnel.Have wrapped them in that heat tape but may need to put a second layer over them.

Rosco

70vette · « **Reply #50 on:** February 24, 2017, 08:37:37 PM »

Quote from: sirfixalot on February 19, 2017, 09:20:17 AM

My 78 is insulated with a high density foam 10mm thick with aluminium foil backing works great. Foam is similar to the expansion joint material they use in concrete is available from bunnings & clarke rubber about 2.5 m does a C3. I have patterns for the floor

I would be interested in the patterns! Sirfixalot.
It sèems the Dynamat seems the way to go for sound insulation

Quote from: Bfit on February 19, 2017, 05:44:22 AM

Dynamat the inside firewall and floor/Tracy tunnel ( dynamat 10465 will do the complete inside of the vette 9 of 48''x 24'' sections )
And do the under floor,trans tunnel, lower firewall with DEI-050502
I got good results with the above
Bfit

Did you do the underside of the floor and if so how does DEI handle the elements?

70vette · « **Reply #51 on:** February 26, 2017, 10:11:32 PM »

Hope I remember how to put it back together!

sirfixalot · « **Reply #52 on:** February 26, 2017, 10:15:21 PM »

Pretty easy if you need a hand give me a call

70vette · « **Reply #53 on:** February 27, 2017, 09:48:11 PM »

Quote from: sirfixalot on February 26, 2017, 10:15:21 PM

Pretty easy if you need a hand give me a call

Thank you for the offer.

70vette · « **Reply #54 on:** March 23, 2017, 09:13:31 AM »

Just realised that the Idler arm bracket has been chopped of in the conversion.
Just on the off chance, anybody got one of these that they have taken off a previouse conversion.

bfit · « **Reply #55 on:** March 23, 2017, 10:20:01 AM »

It wouldn't ne hard to make. I can measure one for you if that would help
Bfit

sirfixalot · « **Reply #56 on:** March 23, 2017, 05:51:07 PM »

I have a piece cut for RHD steer box support it hasn't been bent yet all you will have to do is bend it the opposite way. Piece of 50 mm x 3 flat bar & an angle grinder will also do the job Make a template out of a cerial box much easier to cut & bend to get right.Rescued the AC bits for you from the departure lounge

70vette · « **Reply #57 on:** March 23, 2017, 09:22:40 PM »

Quote from: sirfixalot on March 23, 2017, 05:51:07 PM

I have a piece cut for RHD steer box support it hasn't been bent yet all you will have to do is bend it the opposite way. Piece of 50 mm x 3 flat bar & an angle grinder will also do the job Make a template out of a cerial box much easier to cut & bend to get right.Rescued the AC bits for you from the departure lounge

I have a similar piece welded on there for the RHD box that was on there. But trying to keep it looking original as I can. Can buy the bit from USA for $15 but seems silly by the time they stiff you for delivery and conversion to AUD you have payed $50 for 2"×2"of 3mm plate with a hole drilled in the middle of it. Let me know when is a good time to pick up those aircon bits

Quote from: Bfit
link=topic=11332.msg1045958091#msg1045958091 date=1490224801

It wouldn't ne hard to make. I can measure one for you if that would help
Bfit

If you are taking the measurments from an original one that would be good. I could copy ot all down on a piece of cardboard and superimpose it on to some 3mm plate and fold it up and mig it on.

bfit · « **Reply #58 on:** March 23, 2017, 09:50:32 PM »

I'll get it done Saturday
Bfit

bfit · « **Reply #59 on:** March 25, 2017, 03:04:28 PM »

I found it easier to make the bit than draw it .
How do we get it to you
You will need to get this in the correct place ,
Does your chassis still have the original engine mounts
Bfit