Technical Tips > Body Parts - Bodywork - Paint
Phosphoric Acid
Matt G:
Thanks guys. Great tips and good hints. I'm an engineer, so the geek in me loves the sacrificial anode idea. I looked at the POR and the KBS stuff and their etchers look to be phosphoric acid based. They're key is that they clean and airtight coat everything afterwards.
The only tannic acid base looks to be the base for the all in one converter and sealers.
Here's my plan:
1. Stick my new 5m borescope up through my chassis and video record so that I can make sure that step 2 and 3 will work.
2. Spray (despite recommendations) a tannic acid base converter and sealer with my "u-beaut" home made internal spray system..... (garden sprayer plus 1/4" tube, valves and micro mist spray nozzle) through my chassis. Repeat and concentrate per borescope findings.
3. Spray cold gal inside until a solid sealed coat is everywhere!!!
4. Maybe add a lump of magnesium or zinc as a sacrificial anode, or repeat the spray process with lanolin or fish oil...
I'm travelling (work) a fair bit in the coming weeks, but will aim for the end of Nov for the rust conversion sealer part, and then add the zinc cold gal in Dec.
thanks again for everyone's feedback, links and experience!
StephenSLR:
--- Quote from: Matt G on October 28, 2015, 11:28:15 PM ---I'm an engineer, so the geek in me loves the sacrificial anode idea.
--- End quote ---
I'm an engineer too (Mechanical); the sacrificial anode idea is great on ships as you have them sitting in salt water (electrolyte); not such a great idea to sit your car in salt water though, lol. From what I hear they're either bogus or don't work so great.
Just googled and there's a debate on this here;
https://www.newscientist.com/blog/lastword/2007/08/save-our-cars.html
s
Vettech:
Your correct Steve, sacrificial anode is good in liquid environments with complete immersion. In the good old days people used "fush oil", sorry I mean "fish oil", this is Oz where we speak the Queens English. Stinks like hell, but maybe they have stuff today that is sanitized.
Vettech:
Oh, and my understanding of phos acid is that it only works on rust, not on clean steel, all loose rust must be removed , the hard rust will be converted to another compound that is inert. At completion it must be washed and neutralised, putting it inside the frame I would only consider if you have plenty of access and can flush/wash, drain and dry thoroughly. Best of luck.
bfit:
Mmm rust of iron and steel 4fe+3O2
A fellow some time back would say. quote why is it so?
In a car
We have steel air ( 20% oxygen )we have humidity, and rain and we have a battery that uses the chassis as part of its electrical system.
So how do we end up with 2fe2O3 ? ( i can't write that corectly on my iPad )
Bfit
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