Technical Tips > Post 84
hard starting....
jonjon:
Hi,
I have a 1988 corvette that starts right up, perfectly, every 1st cold start of the day (one click of the key and she's running!).
After i take it out for a ride, and re-start it , it cranks longer (about 5-7 seconds), then the idle sputters down until i give it some gas, then it smooths out.
Reguardless, the car runs and idles just fine while driving. I just can't get it to start right up, like it does the first start of the day.
Could this be a cold start injector "staying on" problem, or a fuel pump check valve perhaps?
Thanks.
77CVT:
If it is one thing I have learnt from C4's is that it could be one of 100 things! The cold start is not ecm connected so you could try disconnecting it.
FWIW, my car had the same problem. Start immediately first up, turns out it was my earth lead - I replaced it and I have had no trouble since.
Have you reset your IAC? Idle speed? The IAC should be 28mm (I'm pretty sure) from the base (not incl the gasket) to the end of the pintle. Here is a tech tip on the idle speed.
How to Adjust your Early C4 TPS and Idle Speed
by Lars Grimsrud
This tech paper will discuss the procedure for correct adjustment of the Minimum Idle Speed and for adjustment of the Throttle Position Switch (TPS) on the early C4 Corvette TPI systems. These steps apply specifically to the 1985 model year, and in general to other years. Later model years do not have adjustable TPS’s.
General
Idle speed and off-idle throttle response on the early TPI systems is determined by correct adjustment of the minimum idle speed screw combined with a correct setting of the TPS. I’ve seen many of these cars that have had their idle speed “corrected” by well-intentioned mechanics and owners by simply screwing the minimum idle speed screw in a few turns. This really messes up the settings, and will not make your car perform properly. Doing a correct setup of the TPS is one of the easiest ways to make your car feel and respond better. To maximize the benefit of this procedure, I recommend that you first remove your Throttle Body (TB), disassemble it (it’s incredible easy – there are a total of about 5 pieces in it…), clean the TB up really good with some spray carb cleaner, and put it back together. A nice clean TB will really put an edge on the performance improvement you will get by doing this procedure.
The Service Manual has instructions for doing these operations, but the directions are scattered through several sections of the Manual. Here is the complete, step-by-step process for doing this (not including TB rebuild). All specs and steps are taken directly from the Manual (all 3 different sections), and this process is absolutely correct.
Tools & Equipment
You will need the following tools and equipment:
1. A set of Torx wrenches. You can buy a complete set in a nice, genuine plastic pouch at Sears.
2. A good digital voltmeter that will read voltages less than 1 volt.
3. A paper clip.
4. A small screwdriver.
Procedure
There are two electrical components on the TB that you will be working with: The TPS and the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC). Make sure that the connectors for these two components are easily accessible and that you can easily disconnect the IAC.
You will also be playing with the diagnostic connector under the dash. Remove the cover (if it’s still in place). Bend your paper clip into a “U” shape. You will be playing with the two top right hand terminals (“A” and “B”) in the connector.
• First step is to set the minimum idle speed. If nobody has messed with this on your car before, the set screw will be covered by a pressed-in plug. It’s located on the driver’s side of the TB. Remove this plug if it’s there.
• With the IAC connected and the ignition “OFF,” stick the paper clip into the diagnostic connector from “A” to “B.” This grounds the diagnostic lead.
• Turn the ignition to the “ON” position without starting the engine. Wait 30 seconds.
• Now, with the ignition still in the “ON” position, disconnect the IAC connector at the IAC.
• Remove the paper clip from the diagnostic connector.
• Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature. The idle speed will probably be really low, and you may have to coax the engine a bit with the gas pedal to keep it running for a while.
• If your car is an automatic, set the parking brake and put the transmission in “DRIVE.” If your car is a manual, leave it in neutral.
• Adjust the idle speed screw to obtain 400 rpm in drive or 450 in neutral.
• Shut off the engine and re-connect the IAC.
That’s it for idle speed. Now on to the TPS.
There are 3 wires stacked vertically on the TPS. You will need to be able to measure the voltage between the two top wires. You can either buy a special harness connector that breaks these wires out (from Mid America), or gently pierce the insulation of the wires with the pointy prongs on your volt meter. You can also stick a paper clip into each of the two top locations of the connector and clamp onto the paper clips to measure the voltage. Whatever is easiest for you.
• Turn the ignition to the “ON” position without starting the engine.
• Loosen the TPS Torx adjustment screws.
• Set your volt meter to a low scale DC volt setting that will accurately read less than 1 volt.
• Measure the voltage between the two top TPS wires.
• Adjust the TPS by rotating its position until you get a reading of .54 volts.
• Tighten the Torx screws and recheck the voltage. Re-adjust if necessary to make sure voltage is right at .54.
• Turn the ignition “OFF.”
You are now in perfect adjustment on idle speed and TPS output. Start the engine. It may take a few seconds for the car to “catch on” to its new settings.
jonjon:
Thanks,
When you say "earth lead", you mean the ground wire to the battery, correct?
How could this effect a later re-start?
BTW, my car has 52,000 miles on it.
How can i test the ground wire, and how did you know that, that was the problem?
Thanks.
77CVT:
Maybe the heat made the continuity less??? I know because when I started it in a carpark and smoke plumed from under the bonnet because it fried the smaller backup earth wire. Not a good feeling! ;eek
Luckily I had my socket extension with me - sit it on the -ve terminal and rest the top against the cross brace above the battery and violia, instant start.
I guess the best way to check if yours is good or bad is to jumper lead the -ve to the block when it is hot - easier starting then earth is bad but I suspect you have a more sinister problem. ;ay
MJ355:
had a similar problem with the 85 vet and the 91 camaro what it was when the starter gets warm and it makes the core heat up and gives u trouble starting then i would have to wait fo it to cool down the best way to fix this problem is to put a gear reduction starter motor in
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